2001Stroker

Hold the a-arm in your hand. Then smack the side of the spindle with a hammer. Should pop right out.

So are the "little nipple on the top of my head" topics.

Are you a Maxima dealer, or something? Why are you pressuring everyone to use what you're using? We all got our favorite oils. They all work.

I just did this earlier tonight to my shift star. If you missed it, here's the thread with a pretty big picture. You can't screw it up. It's almost impossable. This is the first one that I've ever done. Hope that helps. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry951943

Why don't you just grind it yourself? Like sheerider said, it takes 5 minutes.

I'll stick with my Castrol ATF Type-F. I'm in the middle of a complete rebuild, and my transmission looks as good as new. I'm actually putting it in my new set of cases right now, as I type.

What kind of trails? Are there tight turns, or is it wide open? Do you hit jumps, or climb hills? What is your riding style? Personally, I ride very aggressive on fast trails, that are wide open, with lots of steep hills, but no jumps. I use a +6, and it works perfect for me.

Yup. Should be able to smack it one good time, and it will come right out.

Streamline, eBay, local hydrolic shop.

I always get my brake lines made at a local hydrolic shop. Cheap, fast, and don't have to pay shipping. And you can get them in stainles braided line, even with the clear PVC coating, so they don't get snagged.

My guess.....You got water in the stator, and the water was grounding it out. Then after a day, the water turned to rust. You need to check or replace the stator cover gasket. There's also a grommet that goes around the stator wires, where they come out of the top case under the laft carb. There's one more little small rubber plug that is in front of the sprocket. Take off the stator cover, and dry it out real good in there. Lightly sand the pickup and triggers on the flywheel.

I edited that comment. I found where I screwed up. But I still didn't see a pic.

This is what I got: Welcome, bansheehq.com visitor! To upload an image, click "Browse...", select an image, click OK/Open, and then click "host it!". After a short while, your image will upload. Depending on your use for the image, use any of the provided linking codes.

x2 on Matco. Snap-On and Mac are good ones too.

Damn, man. I'm sorry to hear that. I had a friend pass away while doing an outdoor activity a few years ago. He was being pulled by a jet-ski on a knee board, and hit a pier, going over 60mph. It's a hard thing to swallow, when it's not expected. I'll keep you and his family in my thoughts.

Who is this aimed at?

A few years ago, a buddy of mine bought a Banshee brand new off the show room floor. I rode his bike a bunch of times, and fell in love with it. Even a stock Banshee feels like it belongs in the fast world of racing quads. 2-strokes are a totally different machine. With the power band and high revs, and the response of them, they're just totally different. The suspension felt good and responsive, but could be better. Then again, any new quad could use better suspensoin. And just sitting on it is very comfortable. They make you feel like you're in control of the bike, not the bike being in control of you. Go test ride a stock Banshee, and you'll see what I'm talking about. You wouldn't look at a raptor again. EDIT: I ride nothing but fast and aggressive trails, and wouldn't ever think of getting another bike.

I didn't know that he was shady. I bought this lockout from him on February 13th, through PayPal. Just the lockout, not the cover. I PM'd him yesterday about making sure he got the money, cause I haven't seen it yet, and he said he was shipping out yesterday. If he's going to be playing games with me, then it's on. And I better bet the part that's in the pic, as well as all of all the hardware.

Yea, I've done it quite a few times. Just like everyone already mentioned, don't weld a front set. Not only will turning be a bitch, but the axleshafts and u-joints are too weak. Is that reareand a regular 14-Bolt, or a Corporate 14-Bolt? Detroit Lockers are great, but still make steering a bitch, when in 4wd. The best thing that I ever bought, was an ARB air locker. You just push the button, and it's locked, just like a welded set of spiders. Push it again, and it's a completely open differential. I absolutely loved mine, and it survived through some brutal off-roading. I'm sure you already know this, but just in case anyone else is interested. The regular 14-Bolt rearends are 9.5", and the axleshaft is held in by a C-clip, and the Corporate 14-Bolt is 10.5" and the axleshafts are held in by the 8 bolt hubs.

Getting rid of the 10mil crank?

WHAT? You're crazy as hell. You have to completely flush the old stuff out before you put in the DexCool. If you don't then yes, it will get sludged.

Man, that's harsh.

I also agree with this. Some people confuse the hell out of me. This definitely needed to be said.

Well, that sucks. They won't fit my pipes. They need to be bigger to fit. Sorry.

If someone definitely knows that T6 clamps will fit CPI small bores, I'll get them from you. Anybody????? Help the brother out with a sale. Or measure the inside diameter of those clamps. My pipes outside diameter is 1.25".