2001Stroker

These might fit behind the radiator. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Radiator-Fa...7QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RADIATOR--F...1QQcmdZViewItem

I'm planning on doing this on my bike. You have to do a DC conversion with enough wattage to run a fan, lights, and ignition. You also need to mount a battery on the bike, and wire a weather-proof thermostat for the fan. The only problem is finding one that is thin enough to mount behind the radiator. You could put one in front of the radiator, but it wouldn't look the greatest. I can't find one thin enough to go behind the radiator. Here's the only one that I can find that's small enough to fit in front of the radiator. Scroll down to the 106/Pusher specs. http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/trimline-fan.html

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Alot of people just run it straight down, including myself. Once your motor gets to running temp a few times, it'll stop spitting it out. Unless you're radiator cap is bad, and it's building up too much pressure.

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10-4. Sending payment right now. Thanks.

Yes, it's AC.

Will they fit CPI's? First dibs, if they do. I'll PayPal as soon as I know. I have some now that I bought, and don't fit.

No, that's why I'm getting rid of them. I bought them, and then realized they don't fit CPI's.

You still looking for pipe clamps?

Nope. You need the backpressure.

Or, if you're from Alabama, and understand that mumbo jumbo. :biggrin: Just joking, had to do it.

It can be sleeved up to 75mm. But, to make it a 535, you need a 10mil crank, 73mm bore, porting, and some custom domes.

Your post is extremely confusing. Get a 90 degree pick. Turn the circlip with it, and pick it out.

UPS is about $18, one way.

Snop did alot of testing a bunch of different products on a dyno. I'm sure what he told you is dyno proven.

Get some better chain oil. I use Maxima Chain Wax. It sticks without slinging, pretty damn good. I normally get a few little specks on the bottom of my plastics, but that's it. Something alot of people don't know, is when you oil your chain, you need to ride it around for like 5 minutes to get the chain warm. Then spray it from the top, and let gravity work to get it in all the tight spots.

Damn, man. I try to wear my helmet everywhere I go. We're all guilty of leaving it off though. Good thing you're kinda alright. Could've been way worse.

You need to give elevation, timing, and engine mods.

Very clean bike. I'd say it's well worth what he's asking. Stupid question. Doesn't the stock plastics have warning labels on both front fenders? I remember them on the left, but can't remember if they're on the right too. I see the stock graphics, but that don't mean anything. You can buy those anywhere.

If your engine is running stoich, or slightly lean, it should stay clean anyways.

:thumbsup: Glad I listened to that same advise. I can tell you this. Crankworks Billet 10mil cranks are $1,200, now.

Kinda same subject. I live by a huge fuel depot, that's on the Intercoastal Waterway. The same ship delivers oil to Cheveron, Shell, BP, Citgo, and whatever else fuel company is right there on the same dock. I know they all got their own filtration techniques, and put their own additives and crap in there, but they can't be that much different. To me, gas is gas. The only difference I see is octane ratings and price. It all comes out of the pump, with a yellow tint, and is unleaded.

Sending you a PM, now.

Fuel is 3/8" and vent lines are 1/8".