2001Stroker

Before the teardown. This is a +6, stock style.

Stock wiring harness. Mine after I moved the electronics to behind the radiator, and cut out all the unneccessary junk.

I was wondering the same thing. They are nice looking, and come with ASV levers. Looks almost like the Magura Hydro clutch. Hydros are supposed to be about 30% easier pull, self-adjusting, self-bleeding, and installs just like a stock cable. Nothing different about the install. The only thing you have to think about is a line busting. But, if you get the stainless braided line, that should take that worry out.

The faster you let PayPal know, the better. That sucks man. Good luck with it. You're definitely one of the good guys on here. I hate seeing this shit happen.

Yes. I just got the same cylinder in the mail last week. The 4 inner dowels are a little tight at first, but they do loosen up a little. The stud extenders are just a little extra to keep it aligned. Use all 6.

I wouldn't think that kill switches are a common problem. I would cut that toggle switch out, and plug the kill switch back in. Does the stock headlight switch still work? Even though the headlights and kill switches are on the same piece on the handlebars, they run off two seperate circuits. So, if the headlights work with the stock switch, but the kill doesn't work, you either have a bad ground, or you need a new switch. If you need a new kill switch, I have one in the for sale section. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry962006

How old is the gas? What's you pickup gap and spark plug gap?

Gonna be nice. When you think she's gonna be done.

No, I get what he's saying. The guage will not show if your engine has a leak. The guage holds all the pressure until you hit the pressure relief button. There could be 2psi in the engine, but the guage still reads 6psi, because of the button. You need a guage that does not have that relief button.

Awesome write up, doc. I agree, somebody should sticky this.

Top=7.4 ft/lbs Bottom=18 ft/lbs

I'm guessing you meant to say "studs".

Dude, a 4mil has a substantial amount of power over a stock stroke. Like Fouledout said, longrods only give less angle on the rods. Thus, decreasing side pressure on the piston skirts to help them not break. And that goes for motors as small as in an RC car, and as big as in a ship engine. You can get a 110mm or 115mm rod with either the stock or +4. Bigger motors can go from 110mm to 125mm. Maybe even more on the monster Banshee engines. Girls like guys with skills, but I would also question his engine building skills after that statement. I think he needs to stick to numchuck skills.

YFZ fronts are direct bolt-ons. I thought Raptor calipers were different than YFZ's. I don't think the YFZ back will work at all though. You can get a rear caliper from a street bike. I can't remember which one, but it's a direct bolt-on also. I wanna say it's a CBR. I'm sure someone can fill in the blanks.

Read the back of the canister of oil that you buy. It usually gives recomendations. Yamaha calls for 24:1, but that is way too rich. Personally, I'll probably be running either 36:1 or 40:1 in my new motor. Whichever it likes better. There's someone on here that runs 100:1 with Amsoil, which I think is crazy. But, it works for him.

What the hell are you talking about? Nobody said to check it while it's running. And the stock CDI is on a curve, not set at 17. Baseline is 11, then advances to 17. It's information like this, that makes me look right past all of your posts. I'm trying to help this person out, thinking outside the box, and you open your smart ass mouth.

Just got off the phone with him. He's coming, no question.

I'll be up there for that weekend. I'm trying to get my brother to join us too. He has an LTZ.

So many things change it. You need to know your compression ratio, current air temp, elevation, and timing to get your octane needs. Stock head volume is 22cc Stock piston volume is -1.2 (I think) Stock bore is 2.51969" Stock stroke is 2.12598" +4 stroke is 2.28346" Stock deck clearance is 0 Elevation Finder Metric Conversion Compression Calculator Find out all these things, and I'll let you know what timing you can run with 93 octane.

You're good to go, man. Just need one on each bearing.

Do you still have the stock timing key? Maybe put that in and try iy. Carb slides in right? I would put it on top dead center, and make sure the trigger is crossing the pickup in the right spot. I don't know how it would have gotten off, but I would check it. Is it possible that the new crank has the keyway slot machined in the wrong spot?

I'm sure overflow bottles work the same on Banshee's, as they do on cars. It should be at the low mark, when the engine is totally cold. It shouldn't go over the high mark when hot.

Bump, for one hell of a deal. Good guy to deal with.

If you look at the diagram at the top left, is says AC Magneto. Both AC and DC systems have regulators. Are you absolutely sure it's a DC system?

Where are you seeing the steam coming from? Is it coming from the front of the bike, or exhaust? It doesn't take much to hurt any radiator. They're made out of really thin soft metals, and brazed together. I used to do alot of offroading with trucks, and tall grass or reeds would pop a hole in one real quick. I carried a tube of MagnaSteel in the glove box, just for that. The fins would get barely pushed back, and the water passages would get pinholes or little hairline splits in them where the fins are attached. I would put a pressure tester on it, and find that leak. A radiator shop should be able to repair it for real cheap. It usually cost me around 10-15 bucks to get my truck radiator repaired.