2001Stroker

"They" call them the wrong thing. Those are called TORS. Throttle OverRide System. Get rid of that crap, as soon as possible. Oh, and welcome to the site.

If they're so fucking good, then why is their customer service so shitty? Why don't they stand behind their work or the products they sell? I got a few things from them, and they were ALL the wrong shit. Those allholes wouldn't return it because it was delivered to my house when I wasn't there. My girlfriend accepted the package. She had no clue what was in that box. I got it a few days later, when I got home. It was past their fucking "3 day limit on returned wrong items". That's some good fucking customer service, right there. And not to mention, they are extremely overpriced, compared to MOST dealers. Fuck Trinity! Anybody that deals with them is a douche. As far as I'm concerned, if you want Banshee parts, members on this site, or site sponsors are where to get them from. Unless it's a small part, then eBay is a good place to find them cheap. Any of the site sponsors on here will stand beside their products, and any of the work they do. Trinity WILL NOT do that.

I'm guessing he's from a non-English speaking counrty.

I talked to Andy about it a few days ago. Trinity is the only dealer for Cheetah PV motors. They cried about it when CP Industries tried to give other dealers the right to sell the Cheetah. So, M&M and a few other dealers are dealers for Trinity. Since Trinity has so much overhead and bullshit builders to pay, their prices are way more than anywhere else. Basically, CP makes the cylinders, ships them to Trinity, then it gets shipped to the 3rd party dealer, then the nikisil guy, then back to the 3rd party dealer, where he sells it to you. It's all a bunch of bullshit, all because Trinity whined to CP about being the only Cheetah dealer. Now, M&M and other Trinity dealers get the cylinders at a discounted price, and since they don't have the same overhead as Trinity, they can afford to sell the cylinders cheaper. And that's why I got my topend from M&M for $600 less than Trinity sells it for. And, I even bought billet intakes and ARP studs. Climbr, you have to call or email Andy for the Cheetah stuff.

Holy shit. That kinda made me cringe a little.

I had the same problem with him a few months ago. I bought a Direct Drive clutch cover from him. I waited, and waited, and waited. Then I finally began sending him lots of PM's. He kept replying with, it's in the mail, and I got your tracking number, I just have to find it. Well, I finally got a tracking number after a few weeks. When I clicked on the link, it was received by the carrier that day. When it got here, it was the most dirty, disgusting, greasy clutch cover I've ever seen. He didn't even take the time to clean it up a little. He told me before I bought it, that it might need a new lexan window, because it was cracked. No problem. He also showed me a little messed up spot in an email pic. When I got it, the ring for the lexan window was destroyed. It looked like someone smashed it with a meat cleaver on the bottom side. I planned on getting a new 12 bolt cover anyway, so I never said anything until now. Just thought I'd share my recent experience with him.

My trail/hillclimb topend from M&M ATV. A site sponsor, and by far the cheapest person to buy CP Industries products from. (Almost $600 cheaper than Trinity). I did alot of shopping, and bought everything at the cheapest places I could find them, and used all quality parts. Bought From M&M Ported 535 Cheetah PV 73mm Wiseco Pistons, Rings, and Wristpins Cheetah Head with Removable Domes 25cc Domes (for 110 octane compression) ARP Head Studs (Stainless) Billet Power Valves CR500 V-Force Reeds CR500 Billet Intakes and Boots Here's the reast of the stuff that I bought or did for my build. Bought From Members On BHQ Keihin 39PWK's DirectDrive Lockout DirectDrive Clutch Cover CPI Inframes Bought Other Places 10mil Stroker Crank, 115mm Rods, Trued and Welded (east coast atv) +3+1 A-arms (Built by AZCUSTOMQUADS) ELKA Dual Rates w/ Piggyback Rezzies (ATV Galaxy) PINGLE Dual Output Fuel Petcock (eBay) Stainless Braided Brake Lines (Local Hydrolic Shop) Stainless Braided Clutch and Throttle Cables(M&K MC) Did Myself Polished Entire Engine, and every aluminum part on bike Shift Star Mod Cases Trenched, Port Matched, and Bored

Good luck man. I've been looking for a used one for months. I finally got one, and when it got here it was screwed up beyond rebuilding. Had to send it back. And I'm still looking for one. I'm just saving up for a new one now. Free bump for ya.

With a UV lamp, instead of an oven. Same goes for Banshee's and any other arm with pressed in balljoints.

Brand new guns and used guns from dealers have to be shipped to an FFL holder, and the buyer has to get a full background check done. Guns sold by a private party can be shipped directly to the buyer, without a background check. Only certain states require registering firearms. I know VA is not one of them. A receipt or bill of sale is a good thing to keep around, when dealing with used firearms. Because if you get caught with a stolen gun, they pretty much hang your ass.

haha. I do believe that was me.....

Loco, I'm not trying to get in a pissing match with you neither. But you just quoted his original posts. Go back and look at them again. He's looking for a tire that he can drag, AND ride trail or fields with. I do agree that Knarly's are a good tire, but cut Knarly's are not what he needs. He needs something that has some side bite, and a pattern that will let him corner easier. I'm just trying to give him another option. If he's riding trails, he's gonna need a taller tire for ground clearance. iRazr's come in different sizes, and looking at a couple of dirrerent sites, the Knarly ST's only come in 18". PS, I never said that I knew my tires like some people do. Not all of us have the money to throw away, testing different tires and cutting them up, just to see if they work.

Ok, my bad....I meant to say Knarly ST, which is what you run. They don't make a Klaw ST, you should have known that, with your infinite tire wisdom. And they only come now in 18x10.5x9. RMATV Sorry you have to cut your tires to make them hook up like you want. Out of the box, iRazr's hook, period. Trail, fields, straight line drags, they hook. I guarantee that if I were to cut up a set of iRazr's, they'd hook just as good as your Kenda's. Both have huge lugs, and are spread out alot. Both are soft compounds. Wearing very quickly on the road? Who the hell rides aggressive dirt tires on the street anyways? That's stupid. Cut Kenda Knarly's might be the best hooking tire for you and your 10mil hillshooting bike, but it ain't always going to be the best tire for everybody else.

I seen someone mount their battery right where yours is mounted. They used a KTM dirtbike battery box, and used those rubber incased metal conduit hangers. The ones that completely go around conduit, and have a single bolt hole. Hopefully you understand what the hell I'm talking about. I'm sure I made it more confusing than it really is.

I totally browsed over your first post. I thought it said something like, we send you nude photos of ourselves, and you'll make a sticker out of it. haha. My bad. I got it now.

There are several great builders/porters, who are also members on here. Talk to them, and go with whoever you're most comfortable with. Yes, you can have your stock head machined, to match the stroke. You are also correct about the longrods. They relieve pressure from the sides of the piston skirts.

I have to agree. That's a lotta fruitiness. Besides, why would I want a nude pic of myself on my bike? Just so I could get arrested for public indecency? Sure, I'm all over that one buddy.

I have to disagree 100% with this statement. I bought a set of Maxxis 20x11x9 iRazr's on 9x10 rims last spring, and rode them all last season. Yes, they are a little heavier than most, but they're 6-ply tires. They're gonna be heavy. They hook very well. I had a huge problem with excessive tire spin, and these helped out alot. As far as being soft, and wearing fast......I ride extremely aggressively, in wooded areas with about 70/30 dirt/sand mix, and I'm always throwing roost and sliding corners. After riding very hard almost everyday last year, my iRazr's still have about 85% tread. If you rotate them every few rides, they will last forever. You said earlier that they're expensive, but I bought mine for $65/each. The Kenda Klaw ST's are selling for around $55/each, and they only come in 4-ply 18x10.5x8. So, $10 more for a taller and wider tire ain't that bad. And on you can get them on a bigger rim. I ain't knocking your Klaw's at all. I'm just saying that the iRazr's are also a great tire to buy. They hook very well, compared to most any other dirt tire. I will be using the same tires again this season. I reccommend them. This is a pic of them, right before I tore my bike down. You can see how much tread they have left.

DMV can't check it for stolen. PM the VIN to me. I'll take care of it for you.

The one that you showed, hooks to a vacuum port on the carbs. Like on cars, trucks, or 4stroke atv's with multiple carbs.

I totally agree with this statement. I've been stressing it for a while now, and nobody wants to hear it. You can have 130psi, but have 13.5: ratio and need 110octane. On the other hand, you can have 200psi, but have 9.5:1 ratio, and only need 98octane. It all depends on your porting.

That calculator will give you a static compression without the duration. You only need the duration to figure out your dynamic compression. Which does help for finding out what fuel to use. But, you will get a good start without it until you get those ports measured.

Nice. Skate is what they make imitation scallops out of. They cut off their wings, punch holes out of them, and throw the skate's back in the water. They regenerate their wings.

Mine are at the Chesapeake City Landfill.

You must have totally missed this. Click on this links that I put in here for you.