2001Stroker

All I ever do is, 3 heat cycles, ride easy for 10 minutes, then ride the bitch.

I just got my 535 dialed in today. She screams. I'm at 55/178 CGK, 3rd clip, 1 turn out. I don't think it's gonna get much better than that. It really makes your hands shake when you get off it, from the adrenaline rush. This motor is extremely fast. This is the video for the last plug chop run that we did. Fast forward to 1:00. I moved it to the 3rd clip after this, and it's right. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=116390

YES IT CAN! Turn your caps off, please. It works great. That's what I use. Except I use Castrol. It made my transmission shift way better, and smoother. Clutch seems to bite better. Only thing is, it's so thin, it needs changed more often. I change mine about every 10-12 hours.

I asked the same question when I was building my motor. Here's the answer I got. If you're straight up dragging, then go with the billet. The billet is a little less weight, and you can get tighter tolerances with them. Again, that's what I was told by one of the full-time drag racers on here. I got a smoking deal on a billet crank that was brand new, so I couldn't pass on it. Otherwise I would've got a cast crank.

Hope they had insurance.

Or, he's a member on here. lol.

Voltage regulator is only for the lights.

10.5:1

My right peg is nowhere near fitting around my Direct Drive cover. It is the older 6-bolt cover though. I'm debating either taking 1/4" off the pegs, or shimming it out 1/4"

upload them to www.photobucket.com and put the IMG Code right here in the reply box. Don't mess with trying to upload them to the forum itself.

That's stupid. Any local fab shop should be able to do that for no more than $75, for the metal and labor. Wouldn't take no more than 30 minutes to make those and weld them on.

Not true. I have a brand new, in the box, set of VF3's that you can see through. A little bit of gap is fine. They close all the way when the motor is running.

I'd be happy to offer them to you again. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=116095

Man, I hate hearing that. Unfortunately, that happens alot to military guys. I live in a very big military area, and hear it all the time. Bitches, man. Well, I hope the best for you. I'm sure it will work out in your favor.

A 2-piece or 3-piece stator cover with bearing support, but geared more towards off-road, and not dragging. Meaning, not worrying about the weight. Something that looks like the Chariot piece, but without the spidered bearing support. Maybe solid right there. Me personally, I like the smooth, clean look, without any designs. hint, hint. :cool: :biggrin:

Too bad the dipstick goes inside the clutch cover. When you crank up the motor, it sucks most of the oil out of the clutch cover. So, the dipstick wouldn't be in the oil while it's running. It would work fine with the motor shut off. Not Running Running

nice.

Yea, man. 32:1, you should see some smoke. Like he said, pressure test the motor.

Motors with longer strokes require smaller jets, because the longer stroke sucks more fuel through a smaller hole. I know, you're referring to lt1bird's posts in your other thread. His takes smaller jets than yours, because he has a 10mil crank, and you have a 4mil crank. His longer stroke creates more vacuum to pull more fuel through that small hole. Even though he's got smaller jets, believe me, he's sucking way more fuel through them than you are through your bigger ones. Don't judge a motor's horsepower by it's jetting. Doesn't work that way.

I think he's just more questioning how rich/lean jetting works with 2 identical motors. The leaner one will produce more hp.

The leaner you can get a motor, without getting dangerously close to popping the motor, it will have more hp. Basically, just a little leaner than stoich, is what you want.

That's about the easiest way to do it. If you can't get it that way, drain the oil, drain the coolant, take off the clutch cover, and the shift shaft pulls right out that side.

Piece of cake to replace. Maybe it's just the lock nut that holds the bearing in the frame that came loose. The nut is a recessed 32mm or 1-1/4". You can use a bolt with that size head, and weld a nut on the threaded end to screw that nut. Or, you can buy the tool that's made for it.

Another satisfied customer. I bought a set of RIS Design pipe clamps for my CPI's. Got here fast, and still in the original packaging. I also left you feedback up top, under the banner. Looks like I'm the only person to ever give you any.

What oil are you using, and what ratio? Some oils are smokeless, and if you run them at like 50:1, you probably won't see any smoke. Well, it'll be very minimal.