Fearnot

Never

No Problem my issues with Alba etc are just built to a lower standard Like look behind their heelguard the main pipes bend ends in the middle of nowhere doesn't end nice and clean on the subframe tab to add a little of reinforcement. Same with no Tube under the expansion chambers to join the two front sections of the bars together. You are adding a lot more pressure on the footpeg mounts of the frame. XFR doesn't have this issue because they spent a little more designing the bars to work with the mounting points of the frame but your heel guards are now closer on the XFR's to the kick starter and you will need to change your style of kicking to just using your heel especially if you are wearing boots or you wont be able to kick it over. If you want no issues, the best fitment out of the box and most durable bars for the banshee there isn't really a better option than the 43's.

Factory 43 and nothing really comes close besides older AC Racing units. If you are looking for the best no budget the 43's and thats coming from someone with XFR's

I've tried the Razr's, Itp holeshot HD's and GBC XC Master. GBC was superior everywhere for soft medium and hard terrain on the east coast. Holeshot HD's had the best side bite but were so square hated letting loose and getting the backend to slide.

IIRC the ac normal nerfs were normally pictured working with IMS pegs back in old dirtwheels mags. If you don't get any more answers try calling duncan racing they've ran a million different Roll parts on banshees and can probably give you a few options.

I've seen them used everywhere and they are on nearly every race bike for any condition it really depends how fast you go normally. In Cross Country guys run them to help when your bars get ripped out of your hands on deflections off roots, rocks, ruts etc. In TT, Baja and desert racing at high speed having the resistance so your aren't too light and floaty steering in the front when doing 80+ it all makes sense. I will say though that banshee's aren't known for their handling and most banshee's with a puck stabilizer have had real aftermarket chassis built for racing and handling well. Laeger, Lonestar outlaw, Tyler Faith at ghost hollow fabrication on facebook made a brand new banshee design with YFZ450r geometry would probably be suited option for a puck stabilizer. My main point is unless you drive it all the time or are racing pushing it to the limits you probably won't need more than a stick stabilizer and could just spend the money in suspension / a arms / swingarm / axle.

Precision is a weird company they make a kit for so many piles of shit and utility vehicles but when I contacted them about the banshee they want nothing to do with it. Maybe get a gpr's mount and a machinist to try and drill and retrofit it for a precision besides that good luck.

I gots to know.

The frame is the last piece I haven't modified yet and the 3k from Lonestar for stock geo is pretty off putting to drop 30 pounds on a trail snail. Removable subframes are a nice touch same withy custom powder coat options. Just steal whatever Tfaith comes up with and try to mass produce it.

Fourwerx makes some Carbon fiber guards so do Fox without all the branding that makes them look more sleek.

The guy who used to do trinity racing work went off to do his own thing(https://www.mcdermottracing.com/) and probably has the info you need. I was under the impression Trinity was just using cpi cylinders and molesting them with bad port work and improper head cuts causing the motors to be remarkably unreliable and prone to detonation. They even invented (Trinity Spark Plug locks) to prevent the plugs from backing out due to the detonation. Would I ever get work done from them? Well check out their site and notice they can't even spell properly. Can someone who can't spell Ultimate even have the mechanical ability and math skills required to build a high performance engine? Stick with a site sponsor like Redline who might be able to unfuck what you have before it blows. (Stage II Ultamit play bike Port)

Fuck on it

I recall someone saying a billet steering stemp clamp with a grease zerk would work but it was a yfz450 model. The company was maybe JLS? I'm not a 100% so I wouldn't buy the part.

Bringing that old dog into the current decade with a modern chassis. You chopping a set of Cpi's for the exhaust and keeping dual pipes?

I think it's a rare PRM design because I have the identical cross cut into mine. https://i.imgur.com/RVkkdi8.jpg