pabansheematt

I would advize anyone to build the biggest, baddest motor they can afford. You can never have to much power. I could climb 85% of the hills on a piped banshee. But, on my bike I can climb any hill, and shift through the gears doing it while riding a wheelie.

Thats a good question. Thats what Jeff has in stock. 2-5. no 6th gear. No big deal, it will just take a few extra weeks. Cant wait to try it out though.

X2

Mostly because I did'nt want to loose 6th gear. Jeff had 2-5 duneable in stock ready to go. But I do to much street and highway riding to loose 6th gear. So hes ordering me the one I want. It will take about 3 weeks. Cant wait.

Bump. for a good seller.

Talked to Jeff at FAST today. After explaining him my problem he thinks the shift shaft is worn. I'll check it this weekend. So I ordered a 1-4 duneable, clutch 5-6. Time to upgrade anyway.

I'll fix it for $100 Parts included.

Thats what i'm thinking 2-5. I'm gunna call Jeff tomorrow. See what he has.

Yeh. I positive its in right. Thinking about getting a duneable overide off Jeff.

Yeh. Its weird. It wont shift into 3rd under power. I can go up the biggest hill out there if I hit the hill in 3rd. Dont jump out, once its in. I did'nt change the shift shaft. ( It looked fine? ) I ground the shift star last year. worked fine all last year. Could I have shaved to much off?

Just started having a problem a few weeks ago. The bike wont shift into 3rd gear unless i'm going slow. If I ride it slow and shift, it goes in and stays in. If I try to shift from 2nd to 3rd on a hill it goes into between 2 gears and makes grinding noise. So I had a known good used trans. I replaced all shift forks and all gears that had anything to do with 3rd. Does the same thing. Anyone have any ideas?

I'll keep this short. I've been running it my camaro for 7 or 8 years with no problems. Also ran it in my Banshee and KFX 700. Works for me. Less then half the price of race fuel.

You are correct. You can take the bottom off without taking the top off. Its a big time saver if you need to access the trans.

I got a stock one in good shape. $100 plus ride.

We'll get a SKIRT made for Loco. No way he's makin the trip.

Does that blazer have lift blocks on the front rear?

All of the above.I put the rears in this weekend. Detroit locker in the back, open diff up front. Out climbing some hills and shit today. Works good.

I got the good one. The 10.5. With a detroit. I had a detroit in my last front 60 and never broke anything. So I was thinking of saving some money by welding it. All i know is I cant leave it open.

I've had good luck with a welded 14 bolt rear. Sucks on the street. But never tried the front yet. Dont know if i want to sacrafice a 4:56 carrier.

If all you need to do is change the seals. You can split the cases without taking the top end apart. Leave the Head, cylinders, and pistons. All you need to do is pull the stator, clutch cover ect. Saves alot of time and gaskets.

Anyone ever weld the spider gears on a front rear. Just wonder how good it would steer. Got a front Dana 60 with 4:56 gears. Or should I just go with a detroit locker?

This is what I been working on for the last 2 months. Got rid of the shitty stock IFS front suspention. Got an 8 lug 10 bolt in it right now. Got a dodge dana 60 front for free. Just had to convert to single wheel. Hopefully get the new rears in next week.

I guess as long as you dont chew on your bike it safe. Right? I hate the government. Fuckin cocksuckers.

I would never run a dana 44 front with 44" boggers. Unless you like changing axles. Dana 60 fronts are all over the place. Anyware between $400- $750.

If I had to guess i'd say you had a hotrod crank with the o-ring bearings. I seen this before get a crank with pins in the bearing and it wont spin in the case.