Wildcardracing

ADVICE!!! ditch the boost bottle! They don't do a damn thing but cause problems. They are heavy and tear your carb boots ect. I had one on and it cost me a rebuild. The welds on it cracked from vibration I guess, but it ran my shee lean and melted a piston. Do yourself a favor while you still can. Most of the guys on here will agree.

It is good insurance to weld your crank with that much compression. You are going to have to run 100 octane, 91 octane is good to about 160 psi. As for the crank, How much are you willing to spend. Trueing your stock crank is @$75 out of the engine. A stroker will cost about $500 for a 4mm long rod, then you will need different pistons @ $75, a spacer plate or porting for the new stroke $300 and up. Porting is the best option for a stroker. Your port type and price will depend on where and how you plan to ride. If budget is not a concern, then go ahead and build yourself a mean stroker. On my budget, I would spend the money on the porting and have my stock crank welded. You will see impressive results.

Make sure it's jetted right. Give Kim a call at K&T (801)825-5870, He'll be able to give you a real good idea where the jetting needs to be with his porting. You could also email him at www.ktperformance.com, he's really good to work with.

PORT IT!!!! It will be the most impressive gain you will see for your money.

DO NOT hone your cubs. They are plated, honing them would ruin the plating (costs @ $200 for replating) I'm currious how the cubs porting may affect the compression compared to a set of stock cylinders????

Along w/pulling the carbs and reeds off to look at the intake side of the piston skirts, you can easily pull the head pipes off and look through the exhaust ports with a flashlight. This will give you a good idea of your piston condition.

:biggrin: Thanks for your posts guys! I've asked questions on other sites with no response, it is nice to know I'll get some answers here. :biggrin:

I have done some minor porting to my jugs already, I heard you do good work. How much do you charge for a dune/play port job? I have also heard people recommend CPI's and people recommend Shearer's, Why do you like the Shearer's better?

which pipes? I like to shoot the hills the most, with some dune riding and some (very little) woods riding.

I say go for it! Call me crazy, pulled my one month old 06' down and started cutting (couldn't afford th $400 K&T quoted me) had excellent results. Made a port map using a pencil and paper, then transferred it on to some magnet material and drew the ports on there the way I wanted them. Raised my exhauts 3mm and matched the outlet to the pipes, raised the intake windows 2mm and shaved 1mm from each side of the intake bridge and knife edged it. then added boost (boysen) ports with a 5/16 drill and blended them in. Cleaned up all of the casting flaws, then bead blasted the intake sides and polished the exhaust to a mirror shine. Was very carefull to make each cylinder exactly the same. Wish I had taken pics of the process, but I was too excited to get it done and see how it ran! My bike is geared up (40-t rear) and I was pulling Choke Cherry at St. Anthony in 3rd, could almost get fourth. My brothers YFZ450 (piped, intake, geared way down) was lugging up it in second. I encourage more people to try porting for themselves..."Built not Bought"

"clear .0030" is the recommended piston to cylinder clearance when the bore and hone has been done. This is the piston mfg suggested clearance for stock un-ported cylinders. I prefer to run mine at .0035 to .004 with ported cylinders and high compression domes to reduce the chance of siezure. (Banshee's are notorious for running hot)

I'm lookin for more power! My profile has my current mods. I ride primarily at the dunes, but occasionaly woods. Curriouos about lightening my flywheel and advancing my timing or going to flat slide carbs (28's or 34's) Which will net me the largest gain? Also, wanting to step up to inframe drag pipes... CPI's or Shearers. Any suggestions would be helpfull