Wildcardracing

hehehe...lol...lol :yelrotflmao: Give him a break, he's from Wyoming. lol I was wondering why he hadn't been responding to any of my messages the last couple of days.

You'll be just fine running your stock intake parts with 28mm carbs. Carbs larger than 28mm will require larger intake manifolds. :thumbsup:

I guess those could pass as sexy...lol

You just might be crazier than me hehe...lol That looks fun, if I get this right ur plannin on puttin a shee motor in this...Right the !@#$ on!!! What like an 18mm DM...lol :yelrotflmao:

Just messin w/ya hehe...lol :yelrotflmao:

Ahh come on!!! you gotta have a sexier pair of panties than those to win...lol

More octane than needed will hurt performance, it won't hurt your engine.

I wouldn't go over 150psi on straight pump fuel, as far as the crank goes I would recommend trueing and welding it to anyone who begins bolt on mods...heard of shees with only pipes slipping a crank. It's just an insurance thing, always better to be on the safe side.

need to know what elevation you ride.

You will end up jetted a little more rich in that cold. Jetting needs to be changed for temp. if moving your needle solved your problem, then I would leave the 270 in and do a plug chop. You probably will end up closer to the 260 main during the summer.

I wouldn't just have joe-machinist do my head, have a builder who knows how to chamber the domes properly do it. If you're just having it milled off then no more than .020". You won't get much gain unless it has more milled and is rechambered. Maybe 130 psi.

I'd go up 2 sizes on your mains. turning in your airscrews richens the slow circuit (CPI's probably won't need as much fuel on the bottom) Lower your clip one position on your needle and go from there, you really can't make up ground between the circuits.

You should be safe with +4 timing running up to 150, but any more compression than that and your going to have to run 50/50 or straight race fuel.

40:1 yamalube 2r here. If its jetted for 40:1 and you're running 32:1 you'll burn it down lean.

Local Police Dept., they should be able to run it. Just tell them the whole story, I would hate to see you get in any trouble for it.

Did he have a title?? I'd be carefull because as far as the law is concerned, recieving stolen property is the same as stealing it in the first place. I would have the vin# researched if I were you. I hope for your sake it's legit. If it's a legit deal then do yourself a favor and get a clymers manual, This will explain all of your maintenance needs. I run my gas/oil at 40:1, most guys on here run 32:1 as far as I've seen. Welcome to the HQ.

Are you saying that you have the same jetting as before your port work????

That explains a lot right there, once your rings seat you'll pick up 5-10psi and it'll then be around 120 with the stock head. Loosing 5lbs with a port is deffinately not unheard of. As for your head ?, just have the stocker milled and rechambered...It will do the same thing as a cool head just wont look as nice.

They are underneath of the caps that screw on top of your carbs, after they have been apart you will have to sync your carbs again (make sure the slides are at exactly the same height and open at exactly the same time) You might want to invest in a Clymers manual for your bike, it will explain all of this.

My bad, thought they were higher. Wonder if he held the throttle wide open for the test, part that throws me is "110 in both cylinders" usually when u loose compression it's in one or the other not equally.

You're probably close (with porting and 18cc domes) to where your compression should be. I run 18's on my bike at 5000' with porting and am in the 145psi range. My bike had 100psi even with the stock head. Could be a difference in comp guages too, just as long as both cylinders read the same. The elevation there is around 3000' right?

I meant, you should look into things like mechanical engineering or mechanical drafting and fabrication. Instead of being like me (the dummy under the hood) Be the one designing the bikes, cars, engines or whatever. Don't get me wrong, you can make a ton of money in the mechanic field, but you can also starve...It is always feast or famine. And doing it for a livin takes the joy and excitement out of it.

That Actron compression tester is a nice one for the price. As far as the impacts go, they are for disassembly only and the electric should be fine on your shee. It is nice to have compressed air to blow out carbs, clean parts ect. Do what your budget allows, I swear by Ingersol Rand pneumatic tools...but I make a living with them. For the do-it yourself guy at home the cheaper stuff is hard to beat. As for pulling your flywheel to do your timing plate, you're going to need a flywheel puller...rockymountainatv has them for @ $15. An other option is to have your dealership pull the flywheel for you, it would cost a lot less then buying all of those tools. It's your call, how much are you going to use these tools???

Take my word for it kid, stay out of mechanic work if you enjoy it now you wont in a few years if you make it your career. I got into mechanics because I loved workin on things and now I hate it after 10 years in the industry. I wish I would have gotten into fabrication or something creative, I think that would be a better choice money and entertertainment wise for someone with a mehanical mind. Once you have fixed so many things it is hard to get that same feeling of fullfillment that I'm sure you get now, it's all the same after a while. Custom design or fabrication on the other hand is something new all of the time. Just my .02

Clean your carbs real good, moisture gets in the slide bore and will cause them to hang up and stick.