Wildcardracing

bank owns mine, I just ride it for them...lol

bansheejoel is a very good and trustworthy buyer, I wouldn't hesitate to do business with him again.

I felt a seat of the pants diff with my ported cages. I'll try to post some pics in a couple of days.

unscrew them and flip them over, they'll be fine.

Ok, so where's a good place to pick one up?? Will the 11" ones from Summit racing work ok, I was woried about a way to mount it to the crankshaft. It would still be nice to have a formula to work with.

You can find cases for $100, but a good welder should be able to patch that up no problem.

Noss Cool head Timing advance plate +4 timing Paul Turner Mids/FMF Fatties Also, don't know how tight your trails are but 12t sprocket seems awfully low geared, whats your elevation so I can recommend the right size domes for the cool head. If you're looking for even more bottom end there are 2 ino 1 pipes and carbs on the market as well.

Yes, if you want to do it right...on a 4mil the crank travels 2mm higher and 2mm lower so the floors of the ports ect are cut to match. This will increase your port duration, so if you are already ported it may have too much duration to be ported for the 4mill stroke. But, you don't have to. It won't perform to it's full potential unless ported to match.

Anyone have a good formula to figure out port durations???

4mils are mean machines if built right ie:ported for the stroke and cut domes rather than using the spacer plate. If you do build a 4mil I would recommend the 115mm rod crank, it causes less piston side loading so your engine will last longer.

You can run the stock pistons with a 4mil stroke 110 rod crank. If you get the 4mil 115 rod crank you'll have to run the wiseco 795 pistons. Either way you'll need to run the spacer plate or have the domes cut for the additional stroke. If you're sending your cylinders to be ported anyways then have them ported for the 4mil and then run the cut domes, this is by far the best way to set up a stroker. I would also recommend the long rod crank(115mm) because it causes less piston side loading and your engine will last longer. You're already spending the $$ on the crank and porting, might as well do it right. Oh, and you would need access to a lathe or mill to cut your own domes, I would leave that to a pro... They are only @ $60.

PM me a price for the footpegs

Sounds to me like you need to sync your carbs...make sure that both slides are open the same amount at idle and raise at exactly the same time when you push the throttle. Should be done every time you pull the caps off your carbs.

That's not how I meant that statement. An aggressive dune port with stock carbs will be an improvement over stock, agreed that it is not as big of an improvement as it could be with larger carbs. Six of one, half a dozen of the other. If you only have the $ for one or the other then I would say go for the porting first because it will be a more dramatic improvement, then the carbs will compliment it later. Larger carbs on a non ported motor would be a waste of $$ IMO.

It's not in the cylinder, it's on the deck surface. It will probably seal fine the way it is, but I am sort of a perfectionist myself and don't want to take any chances. the way I see it my three options are to run it, epoxy or have my cylinders decked a couple of thousandths. I was just curious if anyone had any other suggestions??

You're from Utah, right?? Asuming most of your riding is going to be @5000' elevation, I would recommend 19cc domes, they will put you around 145 psi and you can still get away with running pump gas. If you ever ride much lower elevations you may want to consider larger domes or you will have to run race fuel. You won't really loose power running a ported motor with stock carbs, but a larger set will compliment a port job better. All of your mods should be carefully decided to work well together for your style/type of riding. My mods are in my sig, My next mod (and soon hopefully) is a set of 32mm flatslide carbs.

about .010" deep by1/8" long by .005" wide

There's a very small ding in one of my jugs where the dome o-ring seals, I was thinking of using some epoxy to smooth it out. Any other good suggestions would be helpfull. :shrug:

Someone has probably shaved the silencer mounts off of the subframe.

They're pretty good cranks, but I would recommend having it rewelded before installing it. The stock welds on them tend to break.

Thanks Joel, I hope to do bussiness with you again. Slo

10 GRAND!!!!!! hell, toss the stock cylinders on the shelf and get yourself a cheetah top end kit for the 4mill then some 35mm carbs, CPI inframes and an upgraded clutch then throw the other 5 grand into suspension, chassis and appearance.

You have two options. A)Run a spacer plate between the jugs and case Have it ported and the head/domes cut for the increased stroke. If it's a long rod you'll need to run wiseco 795 pistons. Having it ported for the stroke is the best option because it will run stronger, have less gasket surfaces for potential air leaks and nobody can look at it and tell it's stroked. :thumbsup: But, it is pricey compared to the spacer plate.

Still for sale, I'll go $30 shipped. That's less than 1/2 price of new domes, these have very little use and no nicks or gouges.

What is the STG???