Wildcardracing

THANKS, Why don't you come to my hill and race me, see how these "haven't even been touched" There's not anything you can tell from looking at a pic, just put it on here for fun. There is a lot of work done to these FYI. That is just one pic of the intakes, and no they are not enlarged much. Don't need to be. The intakes are mostly reshaped to maximise flow and velocity. The transfers and exhaust is where the real magic happens.

I spend a lot of time on my portwork and it flat out hauls the mail, If you have any ?'s on how it runs PM frogger on here. We can talk about your full engine build and all of your setup, my work comes with jetting and setup recommendations :thumbsup:

I would like to trade a nice port job, any thing from a trail port to an aggressive dune port stock stroke or 4mil for your used/new blue or black plastics. Fullbores, Lakers or OEM no Maier or UFO junk. They need to be in good shape, cut fronts ok rears need to be uncut. I need fronts, rears, tank and radiator covers. PM me what ya got or post pics on this thread. Thanks, -slo

yeah, my bad I meant +4. I run +4 on 91 octane at 145psi with dune ported motor no problems.

I think you'd be able to get away with +5 with that compression, but I too would recommend =$ for pump gas.

I'm not a big fan of trinity anything myself. Your $$ can go a lot further somewhere else.

wasn't able to get the jugs, bump for a great guy!!

I believe both the MIkuni and Keihin 28's will fit.

oh, and besides the cheetah cylinder kits I would stay away from trinity.

First of all, what type of riding do you intend on doing? That is the first question you need to answer to base all of your builing on. I definately wouldn't recommend the mods you have listed for a bike you ever plan on trail riding. That setup would be more for a dedicated drag bike, what type of drag racing you do will determine the type of override you need ie: hillshooting, asphalt 1/8 mile, asphalt 1/4 mile, 300 ft. sand drag, 400 ft. sand drag ect. ect. Adjustable timing is a great way to improve your bottom end power, the more you advance the more bottom end you see...but, your octane requirements increase as you advance the timing as well. You say you are running race fuel now, with stock timing you will need race fuel or a mix of race/pump if you are over 150psi of compression. I agree with trex on this one, you should try out a good port job on your stock cylinders if you're not planning on it being a dedicated drag bike. You will be amazed what some different pipes and a port job can do. Basically, you need to answer two ?'s...what is your budget and what type of riding will it be used for.

How much $ could I expect to get out of a set of fresh .020 stock cylinders, fully polished and port/polished to the buyers specs anything between a stock stroke trail port thru 4mil aggressive dune port? would $550 be way out of the ball park? I know what I charge for portwork, but never sold a bolt on set b4, that's the price I would have to have to make it worth my while. What do you guys think??

Kiel I got dibbs on the jugs. hyper, what style is your +4 and who made it??

I think where guys run into problems with overbored stockers is when they go to 28+mm, it leaves an air gap on either side of the slide that screws with things. If you had them done to 27.5 they should be no more difficult to jet than now, up 1 or 2 on the mains. I personally am going to go with the 32TM's on my dune ported stock stroke...50%dune,50%drag

Think there may be a reason the uni's plug faster??? Maybe stopping more dust from entering your engine! For the $ of K&N's you can get two sets of uni's and pack the spares with you. An other option on your carbs is to have your stockers taper-bored to 27.5mm, for an all around play bike I think that would be a good low cost alternative to new carbs.

Sorry snop, guess I just assumed you were still running the single setup. I personally don't think duals are that hard to tune, I think some people are overly intimidated by syncing them. That's the only tuning difference, jetting is the same...just have to pull 2 carbs, extra 10 mins is worth the power IMO

I've always used old plugs to warm the engine real good and then use new ones for the plug chop...no run in on the new plugs. I've had excellent results that way.

Your plugs look like they were used before the chop, you should get it warm with used plugs then put brand-new plugs in and run it through sixth gear WOT and pull the clutch and kill it at same time. Don't let off the throttle till your engine is completely done rotating, keep the clutch in and coast to a stop. Pull the plugs and put the old ones back in and ride it home on those. :thumbsup: The brown should be @2mm up the ceramic and a nice medium grahm cracker color.

Then why do you run a single yourself snop??? Just curious :shrug: Ease of tuning?? Lighter throttle?? Just to be different??

Do a 27.5mm taper bore, that's as big as stockers can be bored. 28mm leaves space on either side of the slide, trust me !@#$ed up a set myself!

Agreed! Very...Very good advice! :thumbsup:

Finally got some pics to load!

OOPS, typo

I would check FMF's website for their suggested jetting, I think with your mods and elevation you should be in the 270 to 280 range on your mains (just a guess based on jetting with fattys), what was the reason for the rebuild, wear or did you burn it down? If you just rebuilt to freshen it up and haven't changed anything mod wise since before the rebuild then your jetting shouldn't have changed. Where is your jetting at now??

I run the uni's on mine, I think the K&N's make more power but I think the uni's keep the dirt and sand out better. Seems like the K&N's need about one jet size larger than the uni's on the same setup. For your carbs, I would recommend the TM32 Mikunis because they are easy to tune and are the same carb body as the TM34's so they can be bored to 35.5's if you ever decide you want bigger ones and you can get them for about $100 less than PWK's. Just my .02

If you want a 421 buy a complete cylinder kit like a cub, don't bore your cylinders out unless you have to. The extra cc's aren't worth that much power and at 68mm bore your stock cylinders are done if you burn it down. Also, IMO the big bore sleeves for stock cylinders aren't a very good option either, you sacrifice too much valuable transfer area for more displacement...limits your power potential.