Wildcardracing

Your slides will stay the same, I recommend Lynn at LCPerformance (www.lcperformance.com) I think he charges @ $50 a set for the straight and $90 a set for the taper bore and shaving the intakes to match.

First of all, suspension is going to be the biggest thing separating the newer quads from yours performance wise, but the aftermarket can address that quite well. You may want to consider doing a conversion to upper A-arms from the J-arms for strenght. I personally wouldn't recommend the 2 into 1 intake because the very small amount of low end power gained isn't worth the huge top end loss IMO. A set of 28mm flatslides would be my choice for a trail bike. The pipes you picked are a excellent trail pipe. Other mods you may want to consider are a timing advance plate and noss cool head to give the old shee some bottom end pep. You could also have a nice trail port done to give you more power accross the board. Hope this all helps.

How old is the chain, any stuck links that are kinking and binding?? Maybe your front sprocket isn's seated on the splines or your output shaft is bent. Odd problem :shrug:

Bike looks nice! I would undo the axle nuts and loosen the chain so you can slide the sprocket hub over and tap the seal back in with a soft face hammer or use a ball pein with block of wood. It doesnt look like your axle nuts are tight enough either.

stock port timing would be far better for a bottom end motor. The cylinders you have should come on strong in the upper mid range and build a lot of topend power with very little on bottom. I run similar port timings on my stock stroke dune motor (196 deg), it will run with most builders drag ports but I have some tricks to maintain some of the bottom end so it is still very rideable on the trails an in the dunes.

There are a lot of variables here??? Engine setup, Tire size, amount of paddles, rider weight, track conditions ect. ect. ect. My best advice is to try some different combinations and figure out what works best for your style. Post this ? over in the drag forum with as much info as you can provide and I'm sure someone over there can get you close to where you want to be.

May be showing different shifting characteristics when hot as opposed to cold. What type of oil are you running in your transmission?

Very good place to start. Make sure they are synced properly when you put the caps back on as well.

Taper bored or not, I wouldn't recommend going any larger than 27.5mm through the venturi...you will cut into the slide bore if you go larger.

What kind of riding do you plan on using it for?? Do you have any way of measuring the ports (roof of exhaust port and transfer ports to cylinder deck) so we have an idea what type of port job has been done??

It's probably fuel that has been spit from the carb overflows and run down the orfice between the transmission case and crankcase.

Not sure on the Pro-X specs, but Wiseco recommends .003" clearance... I like to set mine at .0035" on a fresh bore.

If it persists after the bike has warmed up you could have a bad right crank seal sucking oil from the transmission, what color is the smoke? If it is white you could also have a head gasket leaking coolant into that cylinder. Some other things to check are carb sync (one side will run richer if the slide is raised further) and check that your float isn't sticking (if you have a stuck float and leave the fuel on when parked it can leak fuel into your crankcase causing a rich condition on startup).

If you can spring for the 4mil then go for it! More power everywhere, I think a guy your size could really benefit from the extra low to mid torque that the 4mil puts out.

ok, I'm lost now....You said you were planning on selling your stockers to build this in the first place??? My vote for the type of riding you are describing is also a 4mm dune ported setup or 4mm aggressive dune port, you will be able to hang right with a stock stroke cub and have more down low due to the increased stroke so it would be a better play bike. And, for @the same $$$.

Dave, next time I make it to MI to visit my sis I'll jockey your bike and see if we can get it into the 3's on your tracks. I weigh 145. Could be fun! :beer:

You guys decide to go to L.S. Utah and I might be able to make the LONG drive over to hang out a day or two...lol I won't be able to make any long trips this season.

190 main needle in 3rd clip air screws 2.5 out snorkle removed from airbox lid fuel mixed at 32:1 or 40:1 not 24:1 like your book says :thumbsup:

1/4 inch

Dirty air filter, low compression, old or improperly mixed fuel, weak spark, carb sync, choke crossover tube, float bowls on opposite carbs?? If that all checks out try turning your air screws out 1/4 to 1/2 turn, you may be slightly rich with that temp.

Also, make sure that they or you chamfer the ports after it has been bored or you will hang a ring for sure.

Have the hotrods crank rewelded before you install it

Where you want your peak power to come on and what supporting bolt on mods you plan to run will decide if you raise your ports at all with the stroker crank. I would not recommend cutting ports with the engine assembled. You will need to lower the port floors 2mm for the increased stroke, that will increase your port duration itself...raising the exhaust 2mm with the 2mm lowered floors will put you somewhere in the mid 190's in degrees of duration, this would be a dune type port. What type of port are you trying to achieve here?? My honest recommendation with the ?'s you are asking is to have a professional do the portwork. Not trying to be a naysayer or discourage someone from the learning experience of cutting thier own ports, but you have a lot of studying to do before you pick up the dremel my friend.

A bore job isn't necissary when getting ported, that is if the builder can control his tools. Here is a quick list of engine mods that should have you eating 450's for lunch! Forgive me if I leave anything out. CPI pipes $500 Porting $300 Carbs w/ intakes and cable $500 K&N pods $ 80 Timing Plate$ 40 cool head $260 VF3's $230 Top end gaskets $ 25 TOTAL $1935 That should easily do the job! :thumbsup:

Will consider other colors and trades as well.