Wildcardracing

I will have to look into this, I have the mounting plate here, it's chrome steel instead of aluminum. I'll see what I can put a kit together for. Anyone interested please send me a PM. Thanks, Brandon

I don't have as many tires as I should Jared, but you're welcome to try some of them when you're out.

Should be a good race Jared.

Troy, I've never seen a billet clamp for the oval tube. Depending on what size material was crushed and who crushed it could have any kind of dimension. Most of the ones I've ran or seen will have a hole drilled near the linkage for a loop clamp or a threaded bung in the side also for a loop clamp.

Just a little over 900cc

No, the DMX is a 102 spread

I think they're out of town until the 10th of January. But they would be your best resource for info on setup as well.

This drawing was done randomly. I swear everyones names were entered who were on our customer list.

Weve had a few people anticipating this. We've done some of these in the past and hope to continue in the future. With the exception of the client of the year prize we put all of our 2012 customers in a raffle and drew names for the prizes. Here are the winners! (Winner of the 2012 Client Of the Year, Cutomized Wildcard Jacket) Chris Rothgeb Portwork of choice: Chris Benefield $150.00 Labor Certificate: Chris Browne $75.00 Labor Certificate: Justin Gwinn $50.00 Labor Certificate: Malcom Fuller $50.00 Parts Certificate: Craig Benfield $25.00 Parts Certificate: Anthony Brousard Odi Grips: Abe Slusher Hoodie: Jeremy Hawly T-Shirt: Joshua Barkus Thank all of you who have done business with us over the years for your support and patronage. We hope to make 2013 the best year yet for Wildcard Racing and our customers. Thank you, Brandon and Shay Avery Wildcard Racing and Performance

Is this Zach Swords' bike? If so it should have decent domes for Glamis but you'll want to get an other set cut for your trips at higher elevations. You should be able to run the same domes at St. Anthony and sand mountain, and your current domes in Cali. As for gearing and tires I'd recommend 2.68 primaries with a selection of sprockets. Fronts from 16-17 and rears from 41-44. This should give you a gearing selection to work in all of your riding spots. At Sand Mtn NV and Sand Mtn UT ours has done well with 16/42 gearing and 78 RO 12 extremes. For your weight I'd probably tell you to look for some 74 RO 12 ext on an 8" rim. You should find this setup to be a very good starting point. Hope that helps. Brandon

Doing a build plate after port will cost you $150 -$200 more if you're starting with virgin cylinders

I've done cylinders both ways. If done right they will still work fine porting after plate. It is much easier to port them pre-plate and in a perfect world that would be the way I did every motor, but because of cost it's very hard to sell that way. Takes me a little more time and patience to work around the nikasil but the end performance result is the same.

lol

Beau, I had the pleasure of seeing and riding some of Chris' chassis in OK this year. I wouldn't hesitate to let him do one for you. Either a hybrid or full chassis. For the motor type you mentioned 140-160 hp range, I'd personally recommend a +10 out the front for where you race and +12-+14 swingarm. Our hill bike is 155ish and we run a +6 front with +14 rear, hooks very well with 12 stg extremes. You're a little heavier than I am, you'd be able to get away with a little less tire especially with more front stretch and/or less swingarm. I'm sure chris can hook you up. -Brandon

I also recommend welding the crank before you increase compression. What year is the bike? It is probably do to be re-sealed anyhow. Send the crank off while it's apart. CC size will depend on a few factors. Portwork? Elevation and fuel to be run. -Brandon

lol, looking forward to meeting you guys

Lol Green. I haven't ever seen anyone turn too violent at the hill. But, I welcome you fellas to come try

I tried to send a pm but the site is messed up and won't let me tonight. I am interested in the Stator/flywheel, Complete bottom end, Harness, Coil and CDI. If you want you can consider them sold. Thanks, Brandon

I suppose we could come up with a definition for pre-detonation, but it would be defined as the events leading up to detonation. Not a terrible write-up. But one must be careful about terminology. Websters definitions would be too broad for our use. "Our" defininitions being directly related to spark ignited internal combustion engines, and more specific 2 strokes.

Isn't it gonna suck when you get this all back together and can't molest your shiney parts all the time?

Memorial weekend will be a decent holiday "hill racing" weekend. We are planning to go out Memorial day and stay through the following weekend. Because of sceduling conflicts with some of the original people planning the ride we chose the weekend after memorial for the official ride dates. We may take the break if there's enough interest in it for a couple day trip down to Vegas during the week in between. So far it's looking more like we'll be at the mountain the duration. I'm sure as word spreads about this ride there will be a sizeable group of UT bikes there to race "defending" their hill. I'm really looking forward to this ride and hope it has a good turnout. I can pretty well guarantee good weather that time of year and can assure anyone who is "on the fence" that this ride spot is worth the trip. -Brandon

Increased crank stroke gives you a displacement and leverage advantage. Stroker motors if properly setup will have more hp and torque than the same build in a shorter stroke. 4mil cranks "can" be run without modification to the cylinders with the use of a spacer plate. However, the preffered method is to have the cylinders ported for the new stroke and use custom cut domes. Using a 10 mil crank would require extensive modification to stock cylinders if you can find a willing builder. I offer Stock stroke through +7 with stock cylinders. Any more than +4 stroke requires case modifications.

You've checked the stator side and the reeds. Next logical step is to remove the clutch cover and see if it's from there. I've had motors come here with similar complaints. Some have had issues under the clutch cover ie: bolts, nuts or other parts coming loose and rubbing against moving parts or floating around freely in the clutch side. Others have had issues in the bottom or top end. I've seen lower skirts break where intake ports have been opened up too far, bad crank bearings or loose piston fitment. So, if you don't find anything under the clutch cover you may want to pull the top-end and maybe even split the case to find the issue.

In that case I would recommend looking for a good web or different crank that does or doesn't need rebuilding. I shelf good parts from junk cranks here. I have several good inner webs on the shelf.

If the webs are good the crank is "rebuildable" . Rod kits come with new big end pins, big end bearings and wrist pin bearings.