Wildcardracing

It's when there is a third window cut in the piston above the intake windows. It's supposed to give a small gain, maybe a couple mph on the hill or a tenth or so on the track.

I'm not sure where else to buy them, but duncan racing is the main one. I think they are in the $650 price range, not positive.

Still, pipe length, size and taper will determine the power characteristics. As well as port durations and other engine mods. CPI's are a high reving pipe, with less low end than the other pipes mentioned in this post.

Good to see you found one. You must be headin out with Jared, he said he was headin out with some friends. Sure hope I can make it over to ride an afternoon, would be cool to meet some of you guys. -Brandon

If you thought the toomeys had no bottom or mid, I seriously doubt you're gonna like the CPI's. I love mine and they have excellent top end and over rev, but lack quite a bit down low. A lot will also depend on engine setup, but the CPI's are definately more of a top end pipe.

I've been pretty impressed with the power the 4-strokes are capable of these days, it took an equal amount of mods for my shee to hang with my brothers piped and filtered yfz. Stock for stock the yfz would take the shee every time in any race. I'll give props to the 450's but I'd like to see a naturally aspirated one that will hang with my shee now. Mod for mod you'll get more out of a 2-stroke for now, but the day is drawing near that the 4-strokes will be making the same kind of gains.

150 psi is about the limit for pump gas. I've seen people get away with a little more. Air filters and pipes will have no noticeable effect on static (cranking) compression but will effect the actual compression a little when the engine is running because they will allow more air into your cylinders.

Those are boyesen pro-series reeds, looks like a very mild cleanup on the intake, exhaust and lower transfer ports, would have to have some roof to deck measurements to tell you if any durations have been changed. I agree with sheerider, there may have been no need to tear it down.

Hey, is that a jjanda axle? How do you like it??

First let me say welcome to the HQ. Sounds to me like you may have a bad crank, or I should say one that needs trued. Are you sure you're puting the PTO side seal in correct? The castleated side goes towards the bearing. Someone else will chime in here I'm sure with more ideas.

You really don't need a lockout with an mx ported shee. Infact I don't think you'd like it much without an override, those mods are more for the drags. If your clutch is slipping it probably needs replaced and maybe some stiffer springs. As far as the shift star, it will make shifting a little easier. I would go with the head, what is your elevation? At sea level 18's and +8 is a lot for 110 to handle. If you're around 1000 ft. you can probably get away with the 18's and be around 180psi, but I would say absolutely no more than +6 with that compression factored in. Having a builder increase your port timings to say a dune port specs would probably be the most cost effective way to increase your hp. The compression and timing will help with your bottom end torque.

I too am on the "build my own engines" plan. But, if I had to choose favorites from other builders I would say that Kevin Herr and Lynn at LCPerformance have always been very good to answer my questions and give me advice. I also agree a lot with the post Snop had, many times the no-name builders do better quality or faster work. I think a lot of the big builders begin to get too busy to put the amount of time and detail needed into their port jobs. Before any one gets fired up at that, I said a lot...not all.

In my experience, CPI is pretty good about standing behind thier products and work. Mike is a good guy and will most likely work something out for you. I hope they treat you as well as they have done me in the past.

PM'd ya, wrong forum...but I want first dibs on those fenders and I'm local to you.

Check out slcquadcustoms.com, Lance is a hell of a guy and does damn good work. His round tube chromo swingers are @$280 and ladder bar are @$380 in standard or heavy duty. PC add $60, chrome add $120 and carriers are $150 with arm I think. Those were the prices last time I talked to him.

If I didn't know better I'd say you're just trying to score a set of CPI's...lol But, as much as I love mine I'll admitt that they are not real well known for making low to mid power. A set of T-5's would be better in the midrange for sure.

I agree, a 15 tooth front sprocket is going to put a pretty big spread between the gears if it's close to stock in the rear...more of a flat drag ratio. I would go to a 14 depending on the rear sprocket, maybe a 13 but they have me shifting quicker than I like.

They are just as good as the overbore wiseco's. You should be good, just be sure to double check your clearances.

Matt (Frogger) told me you finally got it fixed, what did it turn out to be the stator/cdi/ coil? I wish I could make it out to ride with you fellas in a couple of weeks. You're going on the 10th and 11th right?

The cheapest place I've seen them new is mmatv, one of the site sponsors here. I'm sure the guys will chime in with some cheaper.

I always try to encourage my customers to price shop on parts, there are a lot of guy who sell parts cheaper than I can buy them. If one of my customers can get thier stuff cheaper elsewhere it's a good thing. I don't understand some of these shops who bitch if you want to provide your own piston ect.

Part that cracks me up is hondarider101's bike starts out as a "no money invested" moded 450 then it has pipes and a couple of things then it is a full blown Curtis Sparks 502...lol Give me the budget that the Sparks 502 cost and I could build one hell of a shee that the 502 couldn't begin to touch on the hill. And furthermore, hill racing does take some rider and tuning skills. If I don't feather the clutch just right or hit my shifts at the right moment I can kiss the race goodbye. Don't get me wrong, some of these new 4-strokes are pretty impressive. But, how many of the meanest sand hills are named after the Banshee? I've yet to see one called YFZ hill or 450R hill...lol :shrug:

WTF, some of those guys have no clue at all...lol :yelrotflmao:

I usually run mine at about 3psi depending on sand condition. If the sand is real heavy or damp, I'll put as much as 5 in them so they don't hook quite as hard.

Both pistons will measure out the same give or take .0005", but your bore needs to be matched to the brand of pistons being installed. One manufacturer to another will have different tollerances. Wiseco recommends .003" of clearance on the piston skirt to bore (that's about the thickness of a hair) If they just bore the cylinders out .020" your bore will likely be sloppy so they need the pistons to match that. Agreed, if you run them tighter (.002") then they need to be individually matched and broken in more carefully. I would just have them wait to do the bore till you get the pistons, then take the pistons in to them. I've never had a machine shop say a word about me not buying my parts through them.