Wildcardracing

I have a set of good condition Fatties for sale. Head pipes are in great shape, no dings or rust. Very little bluing. The stingers are fair, no rust. Old style Power Core's. But, they have been cut so the silencers clamp on. Looking to get $130 shipped out of them. I would rate them a solid 7/10.

I have a like new pro-design head for sale. Will come with any size std stroke domes, studs and good usable o-rings for $195 shipped to lower 48. Add $10 for stroker domes, $20 for new o-rings. Price is OBO. This head is in excellent condition, run for 1 season at the dunes with no problems. Only about 5 rides on it. Sorry, I may have some trouble loading pics.

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One throttle spring vs. two, less effort to open the slide.

Like it or not, the Zilla and Banshee are "2-stroke cousins" in todays world of nothing but 4-pokes everywhere you look. JJBD Don't really want to get involved in the s@#$ throwing. But, I'll have to agree, times are changin fast and fact is everywhere you go two strokes in general are becoming more and more rare. I remember just a couple of years ago, that all you saw at the dunes was 2-strokes. But, my last trip to the hill there were hundreds of 4-strokes and only a handfull of 2-strokes. But, the "80's tech" and "only built zilla's for 4 years" arguments don't fly with me. Granted, the banshee may have been in production for 19 years but only had very minor improvements done along the way(j-arm to a-arm, ignition and brake light). It's not like Yamaha spent 20 years updating them, so they are basically 80's tech themselves. Fact is that there are some very bad zilla's out there, but it takes a whole lot more skill to get the power out of them. Everything is more available for the banshee and they lend themselves better to modification.

Companies will offer anything that sells, regaurdless if it works or not. I think that just about every company that offers the billet intakes offers a version with no crossover. I'll be honest, I'm not sure if there's a real advantage to doing away with the crossover all together. But, I can tell you that the boost bottles are a gimick that several companies have capitalized on over the years. They cause nothing but problems. They will weigh down and crack the manifolds causing air leaks, or the welds can crack also causing air leaks. As far as the 2into1 carb setups, I don't think the gain is worth the loss. A pair of 28's will substantially out flow the 2into1 in the top end, and will be quite comparable in the bottom. I will however admit that the 2into1 is much more forgiving on your throttle thumb after a day of riding.

Ohh, it's a ride....trust me!! I can't think of a much more helpless and painfull feeling than hot slag in the inner ear. Happened to me twice now. I don't think either time was quite as bad as this though. I hope you get better quick, and there's not too much permanent damage. Good luck.

Don't do the big bore stock cylinders, huge waste of money IMO. The transfer ports are allready choked enough on oem banshee cylinders without cutting into them more for big bore sleeves. A nice aggressive port job and stroker crank with all the right supporting mods would be a good place to start. If your budget allows then you could consider aftermarket cylinders. What is the intended purpose of this bike, general duning/racing or just hill racing? What is your budget? These are the two questions that will dictate what you will have done. Also, what mods does it have now?

They make real nice pencil holders...lol Learn to use the search option, this topic has been covered billions of times. As for your question, don't even think about wasting your money on one, they will cause nothing but problems. -slo

I've seen it a dozen times. Hill racing is the big thing here. Every time I've seen it we have attributed it to coasting down the hill with the clutch pulled in. The gear will weld itself to the shaft just as blowit said. Fact is that the clutch needs to be engaged anytime the bike is moving to properly lube the transmission. I would imagine that debris and shavings in the oil could be a huge contributing factor as well if not properly maintained. One other thing could be bent shift forks. They will bend if you shift without your clutch (only exception is override trannies).

UMMM....NO! You shouldn't even have to ask that question.

I've got a lightly used set in my shop that are a 9 on a scale of 1-10 for $400 obo. I'm selling them for a customer who is switching to OOF's

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? (CPI Inframes) 2) What type of airfilter do you have?(Uni pods w/outerwears) 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ) (5000 ft.) 5) What size pilot jets are you using? (25....stock) 6) What size main jets are you using? (310's) 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? (80 deg F.) 8) Do you have a port job? (Aggressive dune port 196 deg ex- 125.5 deg trans) 9) What kind of carbs? (mikuni) 10) What size carbs? (VM 26...stock) 11) Premix ratio? (40:1)

You're the man!! Thanks Kiel! :thumbsup:

I made the rear grab bar, flag bracket and tail light bracket on the bike in my sig. i enjoy fabbing parts for my shee, next will be a complete new subframe.

I can vouch for the condition of these pipes. Only blemish is one very small ding on the inside of the right pipe from the factory tab on the frame that needed to be removed to fit them. I can also vouch for Tankinator as a good buyer, he is a straight forward guy to deal with.

PM Sent.

My vote is for kiel too. He and his brother do some sick work! You won't be disappointed.

Static compression is good to know for octane requirements. With those domes at your altitude as said you should be in the 160 range and require 100-105 octane depending on timing. I would also chock it up to a low reading guage. Even a cheap guage can be a good tool to check the health of your engine and variances between the cylinders. In the future you can use it to see if your compression has dropped. However, I would recommend checking it with an other guage...preferably a high quality one and possibly a leak down test to be sure you don't have other problems.

The cylinders do have portwork, without some measurements from the roofs of the exhaust and transfer ports to the deck there is no way to say what type of port. The reeds are stock cages and look to have aftermarket petals and stops on them, they're not V-force Without bore measurements, I wouldn't venture to say it needs to be bored. You may get away with some new pistons and a hone job. Don't bore if it's not necissary. To tell you what bore it's currently on give us the part# off the top of those pistons. We would need some measurements on the deck surface of the head to the squish band to tell you how much it has been milled if at all. And lastly, the carbs are Kehin PJ's for sure.

I'm not sure it leaned out. The skirt looks as though it just gave out. What was your cylinder clearance? Where those piston windows enlarged? Doesn't look as though there were a lot of hours on that top end. The question of just honing your jugs will depend on cylinder clearance and how badly scarred they are from the come-apart. You will likely have to have it bored. Most of the metal probably got stuck in the piston and head or went out of the exhaust, but you will still need to split the cases and thoroughly clean or replace the bearings and have the inner bearings checked as well as the rod bearings. There are a total of 16 studs/bolts holding the cases together, 8 on the bottom of the crank case and 8 on the top of the transmission. Other than that you need to pull the flywheel and stator plate, and the clutch to get to a small plate behind it that is bolted to both case halves. Not much to it.

Well in that case I'd start with the 300's, you're likely to end up at 290's. As I said earlier, the jetting recommendations on here are to get you close. You then should be doing plug chops to get your final jetting.

Off the top of my head I couldn't tell ya. I'd just go to an online parts finder and look it up. Hope that helps. I have a banshee trans layin around, I could count some teeth if ya need me to.

I can probably get one for you for $125 plus shipping, but by the time your all said and done it would be cheaper just to go .040" over with the pair.