Wildcardracing

380 kit?? Off the top of my head, a 4mil with a .020" over bore is 379cc. An 02 in good condition would be worth anywhere from $2000 to $4000 depending on location. Best bet is to check comparable bikes in your area. How has it been maintained? What is the overall appearance of the bike? These are things that will factor into the value. The fact that the owner doesn't know too much about the bike could be a turnoff for many people, personally I'd study up and possibly use it to my advantage....what goodies does it have that the owner doesn't know about?

Your cub just needs the same size pistons that you have now, then send it to millenium to be re-nickasiled. As far as a 4mil, you would need to buy 4mil cub cylinders to do it. Stock cubs have 130 degrees +-1 of transfer duration, you won't be able to re-port it for a 4mil because the porting is allready too aggressive.

Spacer plate is just what it says, a 2mm plate below the cylinders to raise the whole assembly up so the pistons don't kiss the head, without the plate the pistons will travel 2mm beyond the deck of the cylinders..so the domes are cut 2mm deeper to compensate for this. The spacer plate has 2 negative drawbacks....especially if you're trying to get as much bottom end power as possible. 1st..It raises all of the ports 2mm higher so your durations increase and are out of whack(puts the exhaust at @196 which is acctually more of an aggressive dune port duration matched to say CPI's) and this also makes the floors even higher which allready need to be lowered to match the stroke. 2nd..It adds one more base gasket to the bottom of the cylinder which creates on more place for an air leak to form. The cut domes are better for two reasons. 1st..no additional sealing surfaces to form air leaks. 2nd..Port durations are left to the builder to extract the best performance suited to your riding needs. The 4mil is an excellent upgrade in that it will add power everywhere low end through top end. You have added displacement and power stroke. You can get away with a little more port duration while maintaining a lot of power/compression stroke. With cut domes and my portwork I can match to a midrange pipe and extract a ton more low to mid power and even more top end power than with a spacer plate. Besides...With no spacer plate, who's to know what you have??!!

19cc Noss stroker domes sold!

I agree, Jeff is a good guy and has a good reputation. If you buy from him, you know what you're getting. As far as the porting, it will largely depend on where your transfer ports are at if you will be able to have it re-ported for the 4mil or run those jugs with the 4mil at all. -slo

Welcome to the HQ :thumbsup:

The second kit is a pretty good deal, Just ordered a crank (trued/welded) and pistons from Jeff at FAST for $628 shipped with no gaskets or seals. You can expect to pay at least $50 for those. I wouldn't recommend the spacer plate setup though. You're much better off to have it ported for the increased stroke and run stroker domes.

I have three sets of domes for sale. One set of lightly used pro-design 18cc standard stroke domes (no pitting or blemishes) One set of brand new Noss 18cc 4mil stroker domes -2mm deck .042" squish with standard base gasket-and long rod crank with 795's One set of brand new Noss 19cc 4mil stroker domes -2mm deck .042" squish with standard base gasket-and long rod crank with 795's $35 shipped for PD Domes $45 shipped for Noss stroker domes All domes are cut for standard crown banshee pistons

Mines in my sig, my wife has an 03' with yellow 06' plastics, black CPI's, Wildcard Racing (Noss) coolhead and pod filters (soon to be rebuilt with all the goodies) We ride at Little Sahara (UT) mostly, but get up the canyons around our house quite often as well. I know Frogger, Face and Zingernation are all members on here and local to you.

For about the same $$ FMF's will absolutely kill them in performance all the way around. I have not been real impressed with the DG's, sure they are better than stock...but not much. My advice is to save your money towards getting a better set. For midrange pipes you can't go wrong with Pro-circuits, FMF's or PT mids. -slo

Bump

I'm not 100% positive, but I'd assume it would follow the DOT regs for motorcycles. You would have to have head lights, tail/brake light, turn signals, horn, mirrors, DOT approved tires/wheels and heard that they have to have a parking brake. Might be something worth looking into, if you find out any more info let me know.

Face, If and when you ever get around to the build, porting your stock reed cages is part of the quote I gave you. With some carbon reeds and the cage mod, they will be very comparable to the VF's

I've got a 4mil stock cylinder bike going together in my shop for a customer here in UT, let's see how that cub of yours compares if we can all get together at the hill

I may have a set of pt mids for sale, I will know for sure in the next 2-3 days. I'll find out what $$, PM me if your interested.

You will be lookin at @60-65hp with the stock stroke setup and roughly 65-70 peak with the 4mil but more bottom and mid as well. Depending on the builder.

I wouldn't rule out a leak in the head gasket/o-ring, coolant on the piston will destroy them. As stated need to do a leak down test to ensure there are no air leaks. 290 does sound a bit small for your elevation with your mods, do plug chops to verify your jetting is correct.

Stock main jet=200 Stock pilot =25 Needle in middle clip 1.5 to 2 turns out on air screw The pilot jet is the small one that sits right in fron of the main jet. :thumbsup:

LOL... Check the for-sale forum. I have a like new pro-design cool head that will include the mounting hardware and a new set of domes(any size you want) for $195 shipped. I also have a K&N clamp on set that will need outerwears for $40 shipped. Prices are obo.

Just the standard 513 series pro-lites :thumbsup: You need to diagnose why it blew up or you'll likely be doin this again soon. Also, make sure that whoever bores your cylinders chamfers the ports so you don't snag a ring. One it's all together before you install the carbs have a leak down test done to insure you don't have an air leak. Once you have it running and have done all of your heat cycles and retorqued the head and cylinders you need to do plug chops to verify that your jetting is correct.

Bump, I'll try to get some pics loded soon for those who won't buy without pics. I can assure you that this head is in perfect condition and the domes will be brand new. Will accept paypal, check or money order. PM me if interested. Need this gone, make some offers.

What did you cut your transfer and exhaust ports to, how many mm from the port roof to the deck? There is a possibility that you may not be able to report for a 4mil. And, 2strokespirit....I disagree, I would never run a 4mil with the plate. A nice port job will put your port timings where they need to be. With the spacer plate everything gets raised 2mm, which wouldn't be nearly as beneficial to someone building an engine for low to mid power. Also is just one more place for an air leak to form. Leave the port durations to the builder doing the portwork not a damn spacer plate.

Give Jeff at FAST a call, I'm pretty sure he stock ring sets for Wiseco's. He's one of the site sponsors and there should be a link to his site on here.

I've got this friend up in Syracuse with a white banshee that has some on it, he needs some 9's or 10's so he'll probably cut you a pretty good deal....lol

I'd say the ports weren't properly chamfered after the bore job. Will wreck a fresh top end just about as fast as anything. The marks in the head are from chunks of piston/rings that got smashed between the piston and head. I've seen people get away with running heads with damage like that, but I wouldn't recommend it. The sharp edges can heat up and act like a glow plug, causing pre ignition (detonation).