Wildcardracing

55.5mm :thumbsup:

It should have had one from the factory. But, I think it would work to just pull a wire off of the headlights.

If you go with the forged ones, I'm sure they are ok. I've never realy dealt with them though. I much prefer the wiseco's over them. the power gains they claim are because they alter your port durations by cutting the piston crown. Port durations are much better left up to a builder IMO.

I've got a set of brand new 20's on the shelf I'd make you a killer deal on, I can order you some 19's in if you need...PM me for prices.

No problem, glad I could help.

It's a Wiseco 64.5mm (.020"over) standard rod piston.

I prefer the uni pod filters. They keep more of the fine dust out, and I've yet to see evidence that the k&n's flow much more. They're like $15 each at www.rockymountainatv.com You'll just have to measure the flange on your carbs.

What kind of fuel are you trying to run? I have set them up for between 145 and 185 depending on application and fuel intended

Well, I for one hope the dollar doesn't get any cheaper...lol No offense. What pipes are you planning on running? Get yourself a nice set of CPI's or Shearer's and have the portwork matched to those. That will give you a considerable edge if he's running a lesser pipe. Other than that setup for setup, a lot will depend on the rider. Anything you can do to lighten it up will help, especially rotating weight. The flywheel will help your engine rev out faster, so you can get the holeshot easier. I am a firm believer in ported stock cages with good reeds in them. My bike will run right with a lot of more aggressive builds running large carbs and V-forces. My mods are in my sig. Hope that helps.

If you shortened it up a bit, it would be fine for trails. The +6 is a little long for tighter trails, but with the engine work listed you could easily get away with a +2 or even a stock swingam. The FMF's are a great trail pipe. A lot of how it performs will depend on how the portwork was done and if it was matched to the pipes. As far as reliability, again that will depend largely on the work done in the cylinders (if the builder chamfered the ports correctly, the exhuast port roof is rounded, the exhaust ports are not too wide and the piston-cylinder clearance is good) and how well it is or has been maintained. I've seen banshees run reliably for years and other run good for a day. Other than the swinger, the rest of the mods are pretty much trail mods.

Maybe I'll have to wait to tear down my bike and see how the weather is in Nov. I'm down for a day at the dunes if you guys can make it out. I'd love to see that twister run. Bump, for a hell of a guy. Someone should pick these up, it's a steal of a deal...I'd be all over it if I had the cash.

I can't remember if I even ran the bumper, it's off the 06 in my sig. The swingarm guard is in descent shape, caught a couple rocks, but nothing major...just a couple of scratches. I'll take a closer look at them tomorrow and let you know. I won't be able to upload any pics, digital camera is broken.

You should be safe with +4 on 91. However, you should pay close attention for signs of detonation...ie: spark plugs backing out, silverish specs on your plugs or overheating

You can use grease or vasoline to hold the o-rings in the grooves, but it's not absolutely neccisary. Only purpose it serves is to keep your o-rings from falling out when the head is being placed on the cylinders. As far as the silicone goes, I wouldn't recommend using regular RTV silicone. You need to use a semi-drying sealant such as three-bond 1197 or equivelant.

I have an OEM front bumper (black) and an OEM swingarm skid plate (silver), $15 ea shipped or $25 shipped for the pair. I also have a set of black plastics from an 03 that have some scratches, fronts have been cut, rears are stock. I'd take $100 plus shipping for the set including tank and radiator cover and heel guards.

Elevation and what fuel you plan to run are the two main factors in dome size. Other factors can include port durations on aggressively ported engines, engine stroke on stroker engines ect. ect.

The only problem I can see with it is that a banshee's electrical components are meant to run on AC voltage w/low amperage, an automotive battery will supply 12v DC with high amperage.

What the hell, don't have your calibrated eyeballs in today??? lol.

Almost has a retro vibe to it with the red/white. I'm not too big on red so I'll have to agree, I like'd the orange and black one better.

Required: Pistons, Cool head o-rings, three-bond 1197, Gasket set, seal set and misc. tranny parts. Recommended: Wrist pin bearings, pancake bearing (cascade style), billet impellor and true/weld crank I charge $45 per hole to do a bore/hone. If you stay with the short rod crank (513 series piston) then you may be able to go .030 over, but with the long rod cranks(795 series pistons) the pistons are only available in .020" increments. Don't confuse this with stroke, both 110 (short rod) and 115 (long rod) are available in stock stroke and +4mm stroke.

A cheetah cub cylinder set up for 64mm stroke. Yes you would need to purchase a 10mm stroker crank and have your cases trenched to clear it. As well as other supporting mods ie:Pipes, carbs, lockout/over-ride, pingel ect. ect. Power is going to depend largely on the rest of the setup and who does the porting if any is done.

Personally I would save the money and stay with the stockers with those mods. The stock carbs are very under-rated in my opinion. But, I would like to add that the 28's may not flow very much more at high rpms, but they do offer a decent advantage at low rpms due to the flatslide design.

I just thought I'd post on here to say thanks to the guys who tried to help out on this one. This info may help someone. It turned out to be a faulty fuel cap not venting properly so it was starving the carbs at high rpms. It ended up costing me quite a bit of time and money, but in the end the customer was very happy. I just hope that for the $$ I lost on something that wasn't my fault, I will have earned his future business.

I was curious if you had the larger hew nuts (17mm instead of 14mm). I have never messed with the ITP's, you may have to call R-M and see if they require special lug nuts. I think they may be the ones that require the shouldered nuts. Lucky thing is you'll be driving right past there on your way to the dunes...lol Doesn't look like we're going to make it out this time.

Post up your exact mods and elevation, so we can help get your jetting close. You are lean if you are running your stock jetting with those mods. The pipes, porting and air filter will affect your jetting.