Wildcardracing

14/41 is stock gearing, which is slightly lower than a bolt-banshee is capable of pulling out of the hole in first...But, slightly higher than it will appreciate pulling in second. I'm running 14/40 on mine currently and launch in first. It makes for a decent all around gear ratio, I could go taller for draging but would loose some of my slow speed rideability. I plan on switching to a 14/45 setup and launching in second, nowhere do I ride that I need to go 90...so the top of sixth is really no loss to me. Sand condition, rider weight, engine setup, paddle type and number all play into what gearing will be ideal. As I tell everyone, I can get you somewhat close...but, you'll have to finetune it yourself.

Much above 155 psi and pump gas will give your pistons/domes the kiss of death. I like to keep it below 150psi on pumpgas. You need to do a compression test if you allready put the 19's in.

1mm is an increase of roughly 4deg duration on a stock stroke. What are you currently at on your exhaust and transfers? It will smooth out the power, adding some low to mid and take some away from the top.

If the bore clearance is correct, the ring dowels won't allow the piston to slide into the bore if the ring is not properly seated, so that's not the problem. Did you install the rings right side up?? Ther will be some very small white numbers on them, those go up. If all that and your reeds check out, I'm thinkin your rings didn't seat properly or the pistons/rings were damaged during breakin. It's just very odd that they are making the same psi if there is piston damage, it usually occurs in one cylinder worse than the other.

You have to set your sprocket gearing up for which gear you prefer to launch in.

TDR carries the shorty coilovers that measure 12" eye to eye for around $100/pair, not sure who else sells them....

.055" is slightly on the wide side, but not enough do drop your compression that much...it will have a little less bottom end power as compared to a squish meausurement of around .045" Did you assemble the top end or have it done by a shop?

I could mill/rechamber your stock head for the 4mil for $90 plus shipping, you will have to run spacers under the spark plugs. The problem with spacer plate is that it raises all of your ports thus increasing port-open duration, completely changing (raising) what rpm your engine builds peak power. Talk to Jeff at FAST, he has awesome deals on the hotrods cranks and will cut you a deal on the pistons if you buy them together, pretty sure he can beat $720 shipped.

I would honestly recommend 21's at sea level. At sea level on a fresh setup stock head w/no portwork you should be in the 130 to 135psi range with an accurate guage

4mil would produce considerably more lowend grunt with the correct setup. To get the most lowend out of the 4mil you would need to run it with stroker domes and no spacer plate. I also highly recommend that you have it ported to match the increased stroke.

I dunno, I think you're gonna be pushin the limits of pump gas pretty hard with those 19's at your elevation

I don't see any portwork in your sig, your +4 will be just fine. Once you step up to some aggressive porting then you will want to look into a +6 or +8 for dragging. My mods are in my sig and I love my +2 for duning, but it gets a little wild to launch during a drag race. As far as strutting the whole suspension it works well on a nice groomed track, but I wouldn't recommend it for dune dragging or hill racing. Marvin Shaw's are nice for lowering your stance and shedding a ton of weight off.

Higher elevation=less oxygen=smaller main jet

It's much shorter than the stock axle :thumbsup:

Middle.

Most of those are stock covers that have been modified.

Yes, you will need to get a new bearing carrier for your roundhousing swingarm. You can get nice one from jjandaracing.com, look in thier garage sale section. They sell rebuilt ones in that section, I have purchased a couple there and I couldn't tell either weren't brand new. All you have to do is remove your left hub and the axle lock nuts then slide the axle out to the right. They can be a pain if the axle has rusted in place, you can use a dead blow hammer and a piece of 2x4 to pound it out.

Hookers are only $10 and the crabs are free :yelrotflmao:

Have you had any overheating issues so far with it?

I will agree, that would be $$ better spent elswhere on the bike.

Or pipes and a port job!

Oh, and bring some warm cloths...lol Welcome to the HQ :thumbsup:

290 mains stock needles 3rd clip stock pilot 1.5 turns out on screws Should get you real close, bring 280-310 jets and you should be in good shape...kinda depends on your porting. With your shaved head at our elevation you will likely be able to get away with pump gas.

Do you want more power, or better handleing?

You should always bore to the next smallest possible size. If it will clean up with .060 then that's what you should go with. I would recommend having the machine shop see how far it has to be bored to clean up before you possibly waste your money on an other set of pistons. When you say .5 do you mean .050 inches or .5mm? Because, those are both sizes used to measure banshee pistons. Stock=64mm .010" over=64.25mm .020" over=64.5mm and so on.