Wildcardracing

It will cost only a little more to go to a 4mil, make sure you get a long rod crank though. You will need the 795 series pistons for the longer rods. The benefits of the 4mil are not only more power, but a more broad useable power band. You do not have to have it ported for the increased stroke, but it is highly recommended to get the most out of it. You have three options as far as fitting the stroke, I will list them in order from most recommended to least recommended. 1)coolhead with stroker domes 2)rechambered stock head 3)spacer plate under cylinder I don't recommend the third method for 2 reasons:1)prone to air leaks,2)port timings will be off...raising the port timings should be left up to an experienced engine builder, not a plate.

banshee's are acctually on of the heavier sport quads out there. They are an excellent platform engine wise to make insane amounts of power. The fact that they had a production run of 19 years in the U.S., 22 years total has given them an aftermarket following unknown to other quads. The possibilities are endless with engine and chassis mods. Engine displacement for engine displacement the 4 strokes have a long way to go to be on par with our banshee's. When's the last time you saw a 350cc 4 stroke pushin out close to 90hp naturally aspirated?? Will be a long time before it's a reality IMO.

Beat me to it Brian. Your carbs don't have an accelerator pump like some do, so it won't pump fuel into the engine by opening the throttle just as Brian said.

I have a stock head or coolhead and a stock throttle cable available. PM me for prices if you're interested.

I have two stock swingarms: 06' with good pivot bearings, no carrier $35 plus shipping 03' with good pivot bearings and carrier with good bearings $50 plus shipping

The 2into1 carb and pipe aren't helping you achieve your power potential either.

What is your current jetting? Sounds rich on the mains to me. Do a search in this forum and find out how to do a plug chop, it will be invaluable to you.

you will want to use a bit of grease or vaseline on the o-rings to keep them in place when intalling the head. Once you do your timing plate, make sure you re-gap your pickup coil to .018"-.020"

Yes, if you go with a 110mm (short rod) crank you will be able to use your 513 series pro-lites. However, I recommend going with the 115mm rod and 795 pistons due to the increased reliability of the long rod setup.

First off, since it is a constant mesh transmission it will be hard to shift if the crank won't rotate. It's very hard to say what seized in the engine as it could be your piston, rod bearings, main bearings or broken piston skirt jammed in the crankcase ect. If you are mechancically inclined I recommend you get a clymers manual and tear it apart yourself to determine where the problem is. You will also need to determine what caused the problem to prevent it from doing this again, air leak, jetting, fuel ect. As for your clutch, you may have welded the ball to the shaft. You will have to remove your clutch cover and tear the clutch apart to determine if this is so. I highly recommend intalling a pancake bearing to replace the factory yamaha clutch disengagement adjuster. This mod will prevent the ball from welding again, they are about $50 from cascade innovations.

I recommend the Noss heads for three reasons: 1) Quality and customer service is second to none 2) Uses stock head studs 3) He is a sponsor of this site, help support those who support us As for your domes, you will want to go with 20cc domes to run pumpgas at your elevation, 19cc to run 100octane and 18cc for 110 octane The peak hp gain is minimal with higher compression, but you will have a substantial increase in low to mid hp/torque.

The 06 SE is one of my favorites :thumbsup: Almost wish mine still had that look, I like the ghost flames When we bought my wife's 03 earlier this year, the only mods done were an aftermarket bumper and a boost bottle that has since been replaced with stock crossover, still had the original pistons in it. It now has 06 yellow plastics and is currently under the knife getting a complete build.

Probably not too bad of a deal. The cylinders may be salvageable, hard to tell from pics. The crank is probably messed up on the side that the piston burned through. The cases look to be in very good shape, no chain whack. I'd say for an easy $1000 you could have that motor all put back together with a few goodies. You wouldn't be able to buy a running fresh motor for cheaper. I'd lowball him a little and offer $500 for it and work from there.

You can usually get into them for $100 to $200 dollars

The boyesens usually require a size smaller main and sometimes a clip richer on the needle if any jetting changes at all. I'm not as good with Kehin's as Mikuni's, but 170 mains on 34's sounds rich to me. Others may chime in here on the jetting, but my recommendation is to do a good plug chop...not just pull the plugs and look at them. Have you checked your flywheel key? I have seen bikes shear them and be slightly retaded on the timing, which can cause it not to rev...But, the low rpm would be somewhat rough as well. Also, check all of your electrical conections to make sure they are clean and tight. Just a couple of things to look into.

Sounds like a rich condition to me. What is your jetting, mods and elevation? I know I've discussed your setup before, but can't remember. Did you replace the carbs and reeds, or just the reeds?

Boost bottles are simply a gimick that companies have capitalized on for years. Reed spacers should only be used to gain clearance between your float bowls and clutch arm if necissary Those carbs look stock, you are going to want at least 34's to feed that cheetah. So when you get new intakes get ones for a larger carb, Boss makes a nice billet one with the crossover tube built in or the two piece ones. The image you attached looks like stock cylinders, not a cheetah.

I've got a stock head on the shelf I'll send you for $35 shipped, PM me if interested

Well, if he was running lean with 320's in the stockers then start with the 280's that come with the carbs and work your way down may end up around 250-260. Do a plug chop to verify your jetting. The larger volume of air will draw more fuel through the main, that's why you will end up with a smaller jet.

Your port timings would be all off

Very good advice. You can go by word of mouth all day long, but it's been my experience that a lot of people have only ridden one builders work. So, they will think it's the cat's meow if they felt an improovement. Victories at the track, mountain ect. are undeniable evidence of quality work. But, if you have the chance to try out several builders work then by all means do so.

Bump, this is an extremely strong running stock cylinder setup!!! Won't have any problems surprising a lot of bigger bikes with this one :thumbsup:

That's a lot of carb for a stock port shee with fatty's, but I'd say you will be roughly in the 230 to 240 range on the mains.

Depends on your elevation and what fuel you want to run

Calvin may have a point, it was the left cylinder backing out if I remember right. You could just use a pipe plug in it instead of the fitting.