Wildcardracing

Your going to want 210's out there at 45deg, any cooler and you may need 220's

Lol, my bad...I meant to say interchangeable domes. I had thought of recommending a stroker setup also to improve low end torque, but you said low cost things. Noss machine makes a very nice cool head, available directly through them or one of the dealers who carry his products.

I'd recommend some different reeds for that setup to be honest. The V-Force are nice, but a set of boyesens or some low tension petals on the stock cages would acctually compliment the mods you have better. I would also recommend a timing advance plate and to mill/rechamber the head or coolhead with stroker domes to bump up the compression. You could also look into a nice trail port to match that setup.

Drag type ports are designed to make peak horsepower over a very small rpm range at high rpms and typically have little to no power in the low-mid range, they are usually described as a "light switch" Dune type ports are designed to make peak horsepower in the mid to top area of the power curve. They typically have a more broad useable power band than the drag ports but are more peaky and build power at a higher rpm than a trail type port.

20 lbs.

34-35 :thumbsup:

Inland ATV has usually had what I was looking for, will have to look for their number or someone else will post it.

You can measure from the center to center of the connecting rod eyes.

^^agreed^^ Do yourself a favor and check the local classifieds for comparable bikes to get an idea of prices local to you.

Works also makes a good shock for the banshee, and I've heard mixed reviews on the hydrodynamics brand shocks.

the exhaust durations will be close, but the transfers will be off a ways. The 795's don't compensate for anything besides a longer connecting rod. The port floors will need to be lowered for the new stroke to match the piston crown at BDC. I think he's trying to get a sell now instead of later or doesn't know what he's talking about.

So, was it drag ported to match those oof's?? If so, then you will need new cylinders for the 4mil build

You will notice more power throughout the rmp range because of the increased power stroke. Just the stroker alone is not a huge gain without the portwork. With the right porting it is well worth it.

I'd recommend the 795 series pistons on the long rod below 66mm bore, no reason to jump to the last bore size. Pipes and carb size will depend on what he is planning to do with the motor. If he's trying to extract the maximum bottom end performance for trail riding then I don't think he'd appreciate CPI's or Shearers. But for a dune type motor, yes those pipes and carbs would be fine.

Short rod (110mm) will rev out a little faster, but the long rods (115mm) are more reliable because they don't side load your pistons as much. I only recommend the longrod cranks for this reason.

If they have been ported allready, there is a possibility that they can't be re-ported for the 4mil. I charge around $1700 for a full bolt in and go 4mil build with billet head/domes. So $1800 is in the ballpark I'd say.

MSV=Mean Squish Velocity, or the speed at which your intake charge enters your cylinders and is directed toward the center of the combustion chamber. Too high of MSV and you will detonate your fuel.

Agreed, 34pj or 35pwk...those jets are huge. If your needle is correct and your plug is showing lean then I would suspect an air leak or a plugged jet(s). I would recommend having a leak down test done on it to make sure you are sealed.

Detonation will cause the plugs to back out and cause the o-rings to burn. How old was the fuel? Bad gas will cause detonation because as it ages it slowly looses it's octane level. What are your other mods, temp and what size jets do you currently have in it? How do your piston crowns look? Both detonation and burning coolant will tear the pistons apart.

What aftermarket filter setup? If it is otherwise completely stock you will likely end up around 280-290 mains, but start at 310's and work your way down. Do plug chops to verify the jetting. Your local dealership should have the jets in stock, they are hex mikuni jets.

Very high quality! Plus it has a lifetime free replacement warranty, can't beat that.

My suggestion in that case would be to find someone willing to swap you cylinders, some virgins for your ported ones. Other than resleeving there is no good way to accomplish it.

Porting to the 4mil will make the most power.

The heights that the ports are cut to achieve the same duration are different. The biggest difference in heights in the transfer ports. If it has been cut for a stock stroke crank you will have a chance of ending up with too much transfer duration for the 4mil. A spacer plate will only make this situation worse. My advice is to have a builder measure the ports to tell you if it can be done. Most of the time trail type ports can be modified for more stroke, but it all depends on how high they allready are. The other difference is that the floors need to be lowered to match the piston crown at BDC.

You'll be just fine with the 19's, I've seen people get away with 18's at out elevation...but it's pushing it a bit.