Wildcardracing

Custom domes are around $75 per pair through Noss Machine or one of his distributors.

If you allready have the TORS delete kit then the cable from it will work just fine.

Bump for a good guy!! Buy with confidence! :thumbsup:

I haven't had any experience with the DMC's, but the toomey's offer a very nice broad power band when matched to the right portwork.

No, a full port job should include cleaning up the casting flaws. Both of the builders you mentioned are great guys and both do good work. I don't think you'll be dissapointed either way you choose to go. My recommendation is to call both and go with which ever one you feel most comfortable with.

As far as the cool head goes you can just buy smaller domes to increase the compression, milling it would ruin the part as the o-ring grooves would be too shallow and the domes wouldn't have enough squish clearance unless rechambered. Milling your stock head is a cost effective alternative to the coolhead and yeilds the same results without the bling. You can usually get away with about .020-.030" before you have to rechamber, but to get the maximum gains from milling it is recommended to rechamber it. You should only bore your cylinders if they need to be done due to wear. Pointless bores don't add any noticable power and rob you of future rebuilds.

There is a good chance that your transfer port timing will be too high for the stroker setup, and no chance of running those cylinders with a spacer plate. I would need to know what the measurement is from the deck to the roof of your transfer ports to tell you if they can be used with the stroker crank.

If you're just pulling the parts right out of the box and intalling them with no portwork then yes, the spacer will make more power. But, with porting the chambered head is capable of just as much power and better reliability. If it's going to be a trail motor then I'd never think about installing the spacer plate. Also the spacer plate puts the exhaust timing at @ 196 which is too much for many of the pipes on the market.

The 421 is a borderline motor for pipe selection and can work well with either pipe depending on portwork and carb selection. I would go with whatever your builder suggests.

All of the replacement sleeves that I know of are larger OD than the stock ones and require machine work to install.

To solve your hanging problem try cleaning the carb slides and slide bore really well. As for the high idle, try adjusting your airscrews in 1/4 of a turn at a time and see if that helps.

Kevin will be able to make the propper carb recomendation for your setup.

It sounds like the top end is rich. Going to a leaner pre-mix will acctually richen the jetting. If it's smoking more on one side you need to look into carb sync first. Plug chop it and see what that tells you. If you're not sure how to do a plug chop, do a search or PM me.

www.rjatv.com

If you have the money I'd recommend the stroker setup hands down. They offer a wider power band than the stock stroke setup. The 4mil can be setup for pump gas and required no casework(trenching). There are several ways of going about a 4mil. Short rod with std banshee pistons or long rod with 795's. Either way you can run a spacer plate or stroker domes/rechambered head. I highly recommend the long rod crank with stroker domes and a nice port job to match. The spacer plates are prone to air leaks and move your ports up 2mm. The short rod cranks put too much side load on the piston skirts and are therefore less reliable.

I use loop clamps for the fron mounts, they work pretty good. But, I have seen people weld a bracket to the frame as well.

Yep, you have a blown head gasket. The combustion pressure will pressurize the cooling system. You must fix that first! As far as the detonation goes, you need to first verify the jetting isn't lean. Then try backing off the timing or running higher octane fuel.

It's a build your own application. I use 1.5" x3/16" aluminum strap to build them. Make sure to put a bushing between the footpeg and your mount so the vibration doesn't break your pipes.

There's no need to act that way! He is right, and was trying to give you some helpful advice. You didn't need a tool or strap wrench to hold the flywheel either, just two wrenches on the puller. Or if you have access, an impact. Yes your stator is now junk and is the reason you have no spark. Anytime you put something through the holes in your flywheel you're taking the chance of messing your stator up.

I would recommend just buying some good used cylinders. They usually run no more than $250 for an unported set. You will be looking at least that much per cylinder to have them resleeved. Plus resleeved cylinders choke the transfers even worse making them harder to extract the horsepower.

Have you tried turning in your airscrews to enrich the pilot circuit?

It may or may not run better without the plate with your current portwork. If the transfers have been raised much it will likely run better without the plate, too much transfer duration won't let the motor rev out like it should. If your port heights are close to stock it will run harder with the plate. It will run the best if re-ported for the 4mil crank and I always recommend no plate, because it is just one more sealing surface prone to a leak. I would have to know your port measurements to tell you which way would be best with your current porting.

Without an override you have to pull the clutch and slightly let off the throttle during shifting.

Not the same. Both are powervalved monoblock cylinders, but made by different manufacturers. The cheetah has nickasil bore and t-rex has steel sleeves.

If he were running stroker domes and a plate the compression would be much lower than 130. I suspect either a faulty guage, not holding the throttle wide open during the test or not kicking it enough times. Were the cylinders within 5psi of each other? The motor had allready been ported before the 4mil, I suspect his running issues are because with the plate the transfer port durations are too high. This will cause the bike to not rev out as far as it should