Wildcardracing

I've been very happy with engine ice.

What is your pickup gap set to? Should be .018"-.020". Those mains are way too big. I've never used the chariot plates, but if the tick marks are accurate +5 would hardly be enough to affect your top end performance enough to be that noticeable. If you suspect that as the cause you could back it off and see if it makes a difference. I would suspect an issue with the ignition system. Try adjusting the pickup gap and if that's not it check the coil, stator and CDI. Easiest way to test your ignition components is to swap out with known good parts if someone you know has a banshee.

a slight amount more vibration can usually be expected. But, I highly recommend you take the flywheel back off and lap it to the crankshaft taper before you have an issue with it walking off. I would hate to see you ruin a new crank and your good flywheel.

Pics are a little fuzzy, but it looks like a Mikuni VM round slide to me. Not sure on the size.

I didn't open the link so I don't know what their description is on the porting. But, I would consider any midrange focussed port an all around port. Problem with generic porting is that it won't be matched to your mods, weight, altitude, fuel and riding style as well as a customized port job. Will it run?...Probably Will it run better than stock port?...Maybe Will it perform better than if you had a port customized to you?...probably not. That is the sole reason I would discourage anyone from buying ebay portwork or any portwork from a builder who just offers their services in generic stages with no concern for what mods ect. you are building around. Any power gain is going to be impressive if it's the first porting you've ever had, but will you get the most bang for your buck?

LMAO....probably would have just been easier just to walk.

If your TORS system has been deleted or unhooked you can just undo the plug on the park brake.

Alky domes will have a different squish angle and band width than gas type domes. jbooker is right, Jeff would be the best to ask about domes to match his portwork. Compression ratio of the engine will determine what octane of fuel you will have to run and I asked about the bore size because I wouldn't want you to end up with standard 66mm domes if you had a set of big bore sleeves ect. Find out if the domes that guy has are alky domes or not, I've seen a lot of people running gas domes with alcohol...You can run alky on gas domes but not generally the other way around.

Member SandPsyco has a very nice set of chrome Lonestar +2+1's for sale for $400 shipped!

Chris, A lot will depend on how open or how tight/technical the trails you ride are. CPI's have a bad rap for being a top end only pipe, but with the right porting they can have a very strong but smooth midrange power curve. Your choice of supporting mods (domes or head mods) will depend on your altitude and fuel you plan to run. Tell us a little more about the trails you ride and what you want out of your engine and we can better help you to make a plan. -Brandon

I'm going to assume you're talking about the delta track?? They run a pro tree there. With the sand conditions and paddles/mods you have you're going to probably want to run 14/45 depending on your weight and launch in second. It's a nice track, hope I can make it to the July race. I fit thier rules for the modified class on my 350 duner, but I guess they plan to jump me to the hillshooter class the next time I'm out It's a good time, hope to see you out there!

Your altitude and fuel considerations will determine the dome size that is best suited for you. Depending how fast or technical the trails you ride will be the deciding fator on how aggressive of porting to go with and what type of pipes to run. The T-5's are a great all around midrange pipe and can be adapted well to a dune or trail environment or both if the builder knows what he is doing. I really like the performance of the CPI's for a dune motor and they can be made quite manageable on faster trails aswell. As for the reeds I suggest a set of dual stage reeds and ported stock cages, these will perform very close to the V-Foce on a stock cylinder setup and for less than half the cost. The stock carbs are highly under-rated and can be pushed into the 70hp range, but a nice set of flatslides would be a great addition at a later date. True and weld the stock crank is highly recommended to prevent a crank failure especially when increasing the compression and hit of the engine. The pods are good for more air flow if it's not muddy/wet where you ride. If the trails are faster then a plus 4 arm would be fine, but if the trails are tighter and more technical I wouldn't recommend a setup requireing more than a plus 2.

Depending on the condition of the bore, you may just need a hone job to clean the cylinder walls for the new piston rings to seat properly. There are some other things to consider along with a port job to get the most performance out of the build. Such as what type of exhaust, intake, bottom end mods and timing to run. Any good builder will want to know things about your riding style, elevation, fuel you plan on running and your weight. They will make recommendations for supporting mods to get you what you want out of the motor. What are your current mods?

Better than half of the pingels I've installed have leaked right off the bat. The sealing surface on the tank is likely warped. Tightening it more will just push the gasket out and cause it to leak worse. Many silicones are not very good with gas and will eventually break down. I have had luck in the past draw fileing and flat sanding the sealing surface of the tanks.

cc specialties.

If the weather is good we will be out there on Saturday, not sure how late though. We will have several banshee's and a couple yfz's in our group.

I've got an OEM bumper and grab bar from an 06', they are black and in very good condition. If you're interested shoot me an offer.

Hey bud check on Ksl.com if you put in Jericho (sand mountain) It tells you a five day weather for it.

I live about 35 miles from Little Sahara and it's not been bad here. A little overcast with a few light showers and one or two breezy days this past week. Haven't looked at the weather forcast for the next week, but today would have been great riding weather. -Brandon

They are more of a reliability thing on higher hp motors so you don't walk the crank sideways under a load. Or can be used to change your primary drive ratio. But, I have heard they do offer some slight gain. It makes sense when you consider it would rob a slight amount of power as the crank is pushed sideways by the stock gears. Haven't compared them on a dyno or at the track with that being the only change in setup so I couldn't give you an idea on how much of a difference.

I'd start with 310 mains, 27.5 pilots, needle in the middle clip and 2 turns out on the air screws. Work from there with a good plug chop.

They are the same banshee inframes they've offered for years, they're just bare or PC instead of chrome. We've been getting the bare ones and black PC ones for quite some time. I hadn't seen the silver ones though. Just logged onto thier website and they have added a lot of items to it recently.

When the reeds become frayed, cracked or chiped they need to be replaced. If you have a gap between the reed and the cage you can simply flip them over so they seal properly.

The increased stroke broadens the power band making the engine more suitable for many types of riding. Biggest gain of a 4mil is the bottom to mid torque gained, it will allow for more aggressive porting without having a "peaky" power band. But, as BellicoseBanshee said you need to get the right porting to get the full advantage of it.

It's not a linear equation because crank dwell has a major effect on the relationship of port timing to a linear measurement. This is because as the piston approaches BDC or TDC the pistons speed decreases even though the crankshafts speed stays the same. That being said the more you raise the exhaust port roof towards top dead center you will gain more port open time per amount of linear material removed. Also, connecting rod length affects crank angle and therefore will affect your port open time. Base gasket thickness, decking the bottom of the cylinders and piston selection will also have an effect on port timing.