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Wildcardracing

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Everything posted by Wildcardracing

  1. If you're staying with the stock cylinders, I'd recommend the Hotrods 4mil 115 rod crank and Wiseco 795 series longrod pistons. Set it up to run without a spacer by cutting the stock head or using a billet head with stroker domes. What are your current mods and what kind of budget are you looking to put into it?
  2. Many of you allready know me and some of you I have had the pleasure of doing business with. But for those who don't my names Brandon, my wife Shay and I run Wildcard Racing from our shop here in central Utah. We are in the business because we love what we do and enjoy meeting new people. I look forward to meeting many of you in the future. Here is a list of Manufacturers and distributors we are an authorized dealer for, browse their sites and feel free to hit me up for a quote on thier great products. CPI My link CP Industries My link Crankworks My link Direct Drive My link Eddie Sanders Racing My link Four Wheel Addiction My link Gigot Racing My link JJ&A Racing My link LA Sleeve My link Mattoon Machine My link Millenium Technologies My link Nology My link Noss Machine My link Packard Enterprises My link Powerpros My link Quadcutsoms My link RJATV My link Rocky Mountain ATV My link Sand Toyz Unlimited My link Stellar Machine and Performance My link Sudco My link I'm sure I've forgotten to list a few. If it's banshee related I'm sure we have a line on it, hit me up and if I don't have a line I'll find you the best price. -Brandon
  3. If you can't find some used, we are a dealer for CPI and can get you any components you need. You're just looking for the outer shell of the silencer? Any preference on finish? We can get them bare, PC'd Black or polished. -Brandon
  4. You're not going to be able to have your current cylinders re-ported for a 4mil. So if you go that route you'll need some new cylinders as well as the crank and pistons ect. My quetions for you are: What type of riding do you plan to use this motor for? What are your current supporting mods? And lastly, what type of budget do you have planned to put into this build? The stock stroke cubs are not well known for being a "freindly" duner, they are quite peaky. The 4mil stock cylinder or a 4mil cub would both be very at home on the dunes or the hill/strip. The cub tends to lean more towards a drag motor, the stock cylinder is very flexible as far as power delivery. Best bet is to talk to the builder you plan to have set you up and see what he has to say. But prepare yourself for the same questions I just asked and a few more.
  5. LOL..It ended up being a lot longer drive than it should have been...both ways haha. It was great meeting you too JD!
  6. An impact would be the easiest. You'll also need a clutch lockwasher, it has a tab that bends to lock the clutch basket nut in place. Best to use a clutch holding tool and a torque wrench to re-install. As was said above you can use a file to carefully remove the grooving, but it will cause some slop and won't be long before it's groove out again.
  7. I've seen this bike in person, these are going to be some very nice high quality graphics when they get the details worked out. I'm lookin forward to seeing what you come up with JD! Absolutely no bubles in them.
  8. Your basket is probably grooved from the plates, I've seen that cause the symptoms you're describing many times
  9. Went and hung out with JD on Saturday. Checked out a lot of his products. If anyones looking for custom cut metal, don't hesitate to hit him up! The quality is second to none and he is a great guy to deal with!!!
  10. Why don't you just have the one with the bad bearing rebuilt?? Would be much more cost effective.
  11. It will be lighter than stock, but inferior to a round housing type.
  12. Looks like the aftermath of too much piston clearance to me. I'm not a fan of the namura pistons, I've seen a lot of them fail. Is your crank a short rod or a long rod? Short rod cranks will put more of a side load on the pistons and can cause broken skirts, especially if the clearance is a little loose.
  13. I'd say that's a good call, best way to make sure everything is good to go...who know's what else was damaged or overlooked.
  14. Very nice! I too agree with Dave, need to offer one for the override crowd with stock profile and longer pins.
  15. Don't forget to take into account the head gasket thickness
  16. The deckheight of a four mill longrod with 795's is usually between -.070" and -.080" depending on gaskets used. So add your desired squish to the negative deckheight (I suggest you measure it) and cut it to the desired angle.
  17. I suspect you weren't holding the throttle wide open or didn't kick it till the needle stopped moving. But several things can cause a decrease in compression: Worn, broken or damaged piston rings Over sized,damaged or out of round bore glazed cylinder walls Damaged piston and yes broken or non sealing reeds
  18. It will depend on your octane available at the pump, for 91-93 octane I wouldn't recommend any smaller than a 21cc dome for a stock port banshee at sea level. Both advancing the timing and increasing compression will add a noticeable amount of low to mid power and smooth out the power band a little.
  19. I can get you one, but your cheapest/fastest bet would be to take an other one out and go to your local fastenal or nut-bolt supplier and get one. Just my .02
  20. Glad to see you finally found yourself one! And welcome to the forums. Let me know if there is anything I can help you with. -Brandon
  21. ^^I agree^^ Porting would be your next big bang for the buck mod. You can also look into a timing advance plate and some headwork or a coolhead to get a little more bottom to mid power out of it.
  22. Hard to say what the crack will do without pics. But, I'd recommend having it welded, drilled and re-tapped. Fix it right the first time.
  23. Have you considered parting the motor out, you should be able to get close to what you are asking for it complete. Might have more luck.
  24. You will need a cable Motion pro part#01-0813 or equivelant, a set of intakes for the 33-35 carbs and a set of filters or airbox adaptors. You don't need a TORS eliminator kit, you will just unplug the TORS box and can remove the wires from your harness if you like.
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