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Wildcardracing

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Everything posted by Wildcardracing

  1. No, you want to raise/richen your needle. Post up your complete setup and current jetting, we will be better able to help you out with it. -Brandon
  2. Chad, you might try tuning on your air screws then re-adjusting the idle
  3. Chad, 270 is going to be too lean in the weather we had at easter out here. 280-290 is where you'd want to be. You might get away with 270's in the middle of summer when the weather is warmer. But, 280's is what I always reccomend with Cpi's on a stock port motor. We do however usually set them up with dual pods, I've not tested with the pro-flo but still sure you were lean. -Brandon
  4. I'd go up at least two sizes and continue tuning. But a stumble before the powerband is likely a midrange jetting issue, I'd also recommend raising your needle one clip position.
  5. First thing I'd do is put a new set of plugs in and see if that cures your problem, those look to be a bit aged.
  6. SLP's based out of Idaho Falls, ID. I almost went to work for them years ago. They do make great products for the snowmobiles and I'd assume they put some r&d into their atv products as well, but I haven't personally tried their banshee package or pipes out. I must add though that a 10hp gain over the "next closest competitors pipe" is a pretty bold claim. I would really like to know what other pipes they tested as well. -Brandon
  7. No, the thumb and twist throttle cables are different. And you will need to re-sync your carbs. Anytime you pull the caps you should re-check the sync of the carbs even if you didn't make any adjustments. Do you still have stock carbs? Tors or is it deleted? -Brandon
  8. Alan, We have them in stock ready to ship. $86 shipped: 2 filters and outerwears. -Brandon
  9. If you are looking for the most reliable and best performing big bore setups you should consider the CP Industries lines. Your riding style will really dictate which cylinder to buy. The Cubs, Cheetah's and Servals are all great cylinders and can all be bought for a stock stroke or for a stroker setup.
  10. If you only plan to do a mild build pipes are your first modification to do, they will show a good gain. hp per dollar spent, porting is going to be the most cost effective modification. But, you should allready have the supporting mods lined out or plan on purchasing them with the porting ie: pipes, carbs/intake, reeds ect. Pipe selection will depend on your riding style. I would really have to disaggree with John on this one, I am not a fan of the Vito's products even though I have lines on them. -Brandon
  11. Tried one a few years back and it broke...I won't buy an other from them
  12. Thanks for supporting the sponsors who support this site. We can do the cable for $20 unless you need a custom length. -Brandon
  13. Your basket cushions are worn. How do the fingers of the basket look? Are they getting grooved up? If so, I'd recommend you upgrade to a billet basket with some new urethane cushions. That will solve your problems. -B
  14. We should be out there on Saturday if all goes as planned and the weather is good. Might be out some during the week prior doing some tuning. -B
  15. Cold or hot, the compression test will show you variation if any between the two cylinders. Compression will rise slightly on a warm engine vs a cold one. Compression testers also vary, they are a good tool to determine engine condition but are not to be used to determine fuel octane requirements. When an engine is fresh you should take compression readings and record them, then periodically with the same guage and same conditions (whether warmed or cold) retest to keep track of the engines condition. I advise to rebuild or re-ring after you have lost more than 5psi of compression or if the cylinders vary by more than 5psi of each other. If it is a fresh engine and the cylinders vary by more than 5psi (after breakin) there is a possibly a problem with ring seal or port sizes if it was ported during the rebuild. I hope this helps answers your questions. -Brandon
  16. I would highly recommend doing a compression test to verify both cylinders are within 5psi of each other. Check the intake boots for weathering/cracks. Check the condition of the air filters, chain, chain guides and sprockets. Get a leakdown test done to verify there are no air leaks. Give it a good service. These are absolute bare minimum new bike check items. Me personally; I pull the engine down and check the crank, transmission, pistons, bores, clutch and see if any internal mods have been done. Then, re-assemble using new seals, gaskets, billet impellor and pancake bearing. Put a new chain and sprockets on if they are not new. There is a lot of good info on this site, use the search feature and if you can't find what you're looking for post it up. Welcome to the site. -Brandon
  17. The majority of people who have your answers and will give you the best advice aren't the ones likely to share it. Anyone with a keyboard is capable of giving you numbers. There is a lot more info needed to figure ports than you posted; pipes, elevation, fuel, carbs and reeds to name a few. I won't discourage anyone from learning, but if I give you numbers you won't learn anything. I suggest you read and re-read Bell and Jenning's books untill you have a good understanding of the contents. You will be much more pleased with the results if you come up with the specs on your own. -Brandon
  18. We use the Mikuni DF62 pump. It's vacuum actuated. You will lengthen or shorten the pulse line to strengthen or weaken the signal to the pump.
  19. Bump for a good honest seller! Have purchased from him before, transaction was flawless. Good luck Serg, not sure why you're parting it......B
  20. I've got a good OEM crank on the shelf, trued/welded. Has about 40 hrs on it since it was gone through. $150 shipped. -Brandon
  21. It is possible for the crank seal to act as a valve, sealed under crankcase pressure but leaking when vaccuum is applied. It would only effect the right cylinder if the liquid was transmission fluid. Also, are you turning off your fuel valve between rides, many times I have seen the needle/seat seep and slowly fill the crankcase.
  22. What rod length are you looking for? I can get you a TDR Forged or a Crankworks billet, but need to know rod length to give you a price. Shoot me a PM if you'd like to discuss it. -Brandon
  23. I can do a brand new chrome aero tube for $540 shipped to your door. -Brandon
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