Wildcardracing

Without a machined case you can go with a 421 4mm stroker With a machined case and no epoxy or welding you can go with a 465 10mm stroker With a machined case and epoxy or welding you can go with a 494 14mm stroker

What type of riding will this be used for? What are your goals? What is your budget? I can recommend a good setup for you if I know this information. And no, your stock reeds and intake will not work with the Cheetah. The biggest cylinder you'll get to work with stock reeds is the super cub, but that won't work with your trinity head. By reading your first post I would be inclined to recommend the 421 cub or Serval depending on your riding style. Let me know -Brandon

Seats are lookin good Jeff! Zach, your bike sure looks different with that on

This needed posted here after a bashing I got from this guy on an other forum for my comments. AWK08 is the member who made KOR on BF. Here I know it wont get deleted or messed with. -Brandon Originally Posted by awk08 hey brandon, i respect and admire the work you do, but ken oconnor offered me an incredible deal on the porting i let him do, we were talkin 'bout the shock bushings he makes and it just came up, so i let him do it, he did catch that my recently bored cylinder was at 8mm clearence, way out of spec, so new 67mm is going in but i'd value your "strictly private-between you and i " opinion on the porting pics i posted today in the engine section, and also his decision to put my head at 17 cc's and pump gas ???? pm's only, i'm not trying to start a "builders bashing war" here thanx bro awk

doesn't matter, both are tapered with the same angle and will go on either way. Good luck bud.

The T-5's are not really a BB type pipe and are not suited to that much exhaust port time. You will get a narrow peaky curve with very little over-rev with that setup. Best bet is to establish your budget and go from there. T-5's can work very well with a mild dune ported cylinder making mid-high 60's and have a decent useable curve

the v-force reeds will typically require a bit leaner jetting than OE reeds

you can take the stock cylinder hp easily into the 70's on pump gas. What type of riding do you use it for? Tight trails, open trails, drag ect. ect. A pair of decent stockers will be fun and will be quite a bit cheaper than an aftermarket build. But as said, a lot depends on your riding style. I can't say I'd recommend the Athena for T-5's or trail riding. -Brandon

A lot will depend on your riding style. As mentioned in an earlier post, the Athena jugs have some wild port timings from the start and are not the best castings on the market. If it's just a play bike for the trails and such you may just want to consider going the stock ported route. Even if you want to build a low budget grudge racer you can get great power from the OE jugs for a fraction of the price. And I apologize if my post about Ken came accross a little gruff but some of the questions he sent his customers to ask me early on were rediculous if he had any idea of what he was doing. In his own words doing a head modification is "just elementary machine work". I can assure you there is a lot more to it than that. If I hadn't told AWK08 where his dome cc should be I seriously doubt ken would have gotten many if any of his blasters to stay toghether. Every other blaster question I answered for a while was pipelined back to Ken so he could learn. Pisses me off when people take advantage of others. And by that I mean taking advantage of customers who think they are getting a proven product from an experienced builder. If you feel he can get you where you want, then I sincerely wish you luck. -Brandon

I recommend a pump on anything over 500cc on alky. Wouldn't hurt to do a pump and billet bowls IMO.

I personally would recommend going with a good CP Industries cylinder. The Serval for example has great potential and is a potent trail motor right out of the box. Plus they're made in the USA. I'd also recommend searching for a builder with a bit more banshee experience. I watched Ken build his business on blasterforum by charging people to expiriment on their motors while all of his customers called me constantly to sort out compression and tuning issues. I won't sit with my mouth shut anymore and watch him hone in on banshee customers in the same manner. If he wants to learn to build banshees he needs to build several of his own and learn the right way. -Brandon

I have them in stock new if you're unable to find a suitable set. -Brandon

scratches in the cylinder wall below the exhaust roof won't hurt performance as long as they don't have any burrs around them, more cosmetic than anything. Looks like someone couldn't control their porting tool. I would be much more concerned about the apparent lack of port chamfers. Run those as they are and you are asking for a snagged ring. Take it somewhere more proffessional with a reputation next time IMO. -Brandon

As for your question on removing broken studs. I like to index them in on the mill and machine everything out but the threads. Then use a pic to get the first couple of threads out and unscrew it from there. But you may not have access to that equipment, try a screw extractor set. Try to only drill the stud, not the cases. If the case gets damaged install a time cert if on the outer studs, you'll have to helicoil the inners though.

I hate removing metal where it's not needed, I've always pulled the studs and replaced them with the longer ones meant for the rear center. As Jared said, you can warm up the stud to break the locktite...be careful though, you can heat it too much and mess up the heat treatment of the aluminum. Then, it will strip easily. My preffered method is using a stud puller, once it's installed smack it once or twice with a hammer to loosen the locktite then pull it out. -Brandon

Pro-Design stud kit $38

Big thing to keep in mind is where the pipe wants to operate at it's best efficiency with each cylinder design. Your pipe of choice will really dictate where the exhaust and transfer timing need to be to get the most of your setup. Going too high on the exhaust will begin to raise and narrow the power curve resulting in less torque backup which will slow you down when you shift. At some point you will have such a short power stroke you will begin to loose power and have issues starting the engine. Raising the tranfers too much will result in a motor that pulls strong in the midrange and signs off early. Stock cylinders are limited on ways to get more time area and therefore will need to be raised more to make big power. If you've not ported a cub before your best bet is to clean up the casting flaws and match all of the windows/timings then concentrate on dome design. You'll find your biggest gains in the domes. -Brandon

Best bet is to ask your builder which brand and size to go with. Everyone sets up their porting and domes a bit different. 421 cub can be set up to run very well with many pipes. Three most common will be Shearer SB, CPI SB and CPI BB. -Brandon

There is little to no difference in reliability between a stock stroke and 4mil if done correctly. There are a lot of crank options around these days, some of the cheaper ones can be beefed up to be very reliable. As for your piston crowns being that black, either you jetting is very rich or you're using a straight castor base mix oil. Either way it's not a sign of a problem. Best thing to do at this point is to establish what you want to use the engine for, a budget and then call a few builders to discuss your plans. Then build from there. Stock stroke cubs are not a real forgiving play motor IMO, they are great for very aggressive dune riding or racing. -Brandon

There won't be an other Banshee Wars in Cali....parks dept or whichever gov't agency runs the dunes banned it because of the violence and type of crowd it attracted. John from Sandtoyz was very instrumental in promoting Banshee Wars, he and I talked several times about it. He talked for a long time about organizing a two stroke wars to take it's place. Never have seen anything come of it. Problem is the amount of people it takes to get something like this going is hard to make all the pieces fit. I agree that much of the drama could be avoided by requiring a tech inspection before the race and teardown for the podium after the race.

Cub motors scavenge very well with the right pipe setup. IMO exhaust numbers that high are unneccessary and will only hurt the curve. Most of the power in porting a cub is in the tripples and transfers. Much will also depend on what pipe you are planning to run. With a cub most of your power gain is going to be found in the dome design once you have a good clean port layout. Going beyond 198 is a waste IMO. -Brandon

If the weather is nice we might make it out for a day trip on Saturday.

Use the M1, you can also play with burn modifiers if you want.

Good call n2o, make sure the choke crossover tube is in place. Directly across from the choke knob there should be a tube connecting the two carbs.

Hmm, that design looks Wildly familiar