JUSTWANNARACE

+2 brake line.. also be aware and make sure you have the clutch cable routed with some slack or the bike will Rev to the moon when you turn the bars

That's why I will usually bring it up between the 2 carbs and to the back with most pipes.

^^^ this

It should run across the top of the cases and set in the little hook on the the clutch cable hold down and out the right side to the back of the bike

This is why I don't like the asv levers, not enough throw and hard on clutches. But there should be an adjustment screw on the back side of the lever itself which pushes the lever farther away from the bars and gives you more throw (clutch pull) it' just a little Allen set screw

No reason imo to get it close now.. you get it jetted right on bottom now and you'll be a little rich when the weather warms up. And won't be mad when you are ready to ride and realize it's not even close and have to wait on parts. Jmo

No but it's a piece of mind. I would have never thought twice if I didn' have a dirt bike jump out of the first bowl at sandlake and land on top of me. Granted I was on my banshee but still.. like I said jmo.. build is looking good

It's not the racing id worry about, its the idiots on the sand I worry about.. but your wife not mine.. just my opinion

No intrusion bars on the cage, would send back!

39mm kehin PWK's

Is it an adjustable regulator?

Hmmm.. great advice

take the whole clutch cover off and press the vent valve under the water pump cover and put a block off plate on it. Saves weight..

Swap the piston out for wiesco 795 series long rod pistons

If it's a stock stroke long rod with stock style pistons it's going to stick out 5mm.. if it's a 4mm long rod with stock style pistons it's going to stick out 7mm ect..

If you can measure the the total distance of the piston pop out at TDC then we can probably point you in the right direction

There is no "quick fix" with what you have going on there. You will need to figure out the crank and rods so you know what you have and what pistons you need.

Do you have any pics of the crank before it was installed?

If I was to guess it is a long rod crank and you need 795 long rod pistons. To stick out that far with the correct pistons it would have to be a 10mm stroke or bigger. Cause a 7mm stroke with 115mm rods and 795 pistons the ring will not come out of the cyl. A 10mm stroke with a 795 piston the rings will come our of the cyl..

It is basically a catch tank not a resivore.. tell me how the coolant can make it back into the radiator from the resivore? Does it lift the seal on the cap to put it back in? The coolant expands once heated, lifts the seal on the cap and pushes it out the overflow until it get to level at operating temp. There is no way for the coolant to get back to the radiator unless it can lift the seal on the cap and push it back in, and the cap doesn't work that way.. jmo

Damion Cole is one of the best chassis builders out there for atv stuff. Just kinda hard to make a living just building chassis and components. He pretty much got screwed on his first venture with SSR (Southern Style Racing) him and a few other are what made that company and Buddy DeVille (owner) decided he liked cock fighting more than running his buisness. Then Damion started Black Label and just not enough work to make a living. Pretty sure him and Luke (Luke's Race Engines) even made a go at the chassis stuff again. I never heard of this Viking Powersports though

Heat the cases with a propane torch and the bearing will drop right in

The problem with setting idle with the carb tops and cables is there is no slack in the cable. So you have potential of throttle reving up or sticking when you turn the bars

Common sence would tell me the hole has been at least drilled, or there wouldn't be silicone in there if there wasn't a hole. Jmo

Have you tried turning your idle down?