JUSTWANNARACE

Ive played with more nitro then most (on a 2 stroke) and 80% nitro to on an N/A 2 stroke is not possible.. Just sayin

Pilot jet is lean

When you take it off look at the tab in the rear of the lock washer. Is it sheared off or bent. See that quit a bit with the guys that just "hit it real quick with an impact".. and like I said oil or grease goes a long way when installing that washer

Most likely the lock washer wasn't installed properly. Or the tab on the back broke from over torqing. Also a good habit to pit oil on both sides of the lock washer before installing

I prefer bel ray gear saver 80w or redline shockproof.. ATF is not good for the hard parts, it is fine for the clutches but will cause pitting on the tranny gears

Piston to wall clearance is measured at the piston skirt not the top of the piston. The top of the piston is the narrowest point. The piston also is not round it is cam shaped. So you need to measure piston from intake side to exhaust side about 3/4s of an inch up from the bottom of the skirt. At that point your cyls should be roughly .003 larger than the piston at that point. Also need to check your ring gap before installing any piston.. Jmo

Your priorities are backward.. motor first, THEN, if you have any $ left over, wedding stuff

Piston availability.. 120mm rod has an 18mm wrist pin

7mm will have less wear on the cyl walls and piston for a play bike over a 10mm cause they both use a 115mm rod

Many times sitting at the porting table while grinding oem cyls asking myself wtf that little circle ment, that's all I could come up with is foundry identification..lol

I have a bunch of oem could that have that circle with the #s I think it was from what foundry they came from. And as many sets I have seen and ground that off to polish

What is your take then on the pics canadianshee posted.. cause I'd put $20 on those being oem. They have all the correct markings, the casting ridges in the intake and transfers, ect.. all point to an oem..

Are you sure those are NOT oem? I would almost bet those are oem from the pics

It all depends on riding style and where you want your powerband. On say a 421 cub a big bore will usually out perform on the track(drag) and a small bore will perform better on the dunes and trails.. jmo

Not lonestar.. with everyone and their brother building swing rms out of their garage it' hard to say who built it

Welcome to the bike business!! Lol

I would start with replacing the intake boot if it's cracked, silicone not going to do much good. Do you have the choke cross over tube installed from carb to carb? Do you have the slides in the correct direction( cut away tword filter)?

The other ring is the bolt pattern. They do a bolt in center section so they don' thave to have a different wheel for every bolt patern. So you can change from Yamaha to Honda by just changing the center section

My ol lady's first bike was an 02 off the show room floor

That was on the 4cyl.. they now fire like 2 twins. Saves life of the crank

That is not duel beadlock, only the outside

Mach Z ignition is what most triples are running. And phase it as a triple

Heavy metal, R&B, hip hop, classic rock?? Come on be a little more specific.. geez.. the guys looking for some good info here..

Bad float height, bad float needle, o-ring around the needle seat is fucked.. ect..

Start with the carbs at fully closed. Meaning back the idle screws out all the way and make sure you cable is completely slack. Make sure the choke tube is in and make sure the slides are in correctly. You should hear the slides hitting the bottom of the carb at this point.