JUSTWANNARACE

And might as well do a 14-16mm would be basically the same cost

10dm will be fine with a 115 rod but limited to mostly CP for pistons. 120 rod there are shelf pistons you can use but require machine work. Plus the dwell time on the longer rod will make it slower to rev. Anything above 64mm stroke I would move to the 120. But I know nothing

Make the trade. A stock head and bottom case have little value. Those works will be a hell of an upgrade from the stockers.. and far more valuable than a stock head ($20) and a bottom case ($0 without the matching top case). As far as works being out of business, all seals and parts can be acquired other places than works. And any reputable shock guy will rebuild those in his sleep for about $125ea. Jmo

Pull the coil off clean mounts down to bare metal, remount coil. Do the same with the cdi ground(black wire, usually mounted with the voltage regulator)

Not sure who made that pancake bearing but I have been using the mattoon ones for years with no issues. Never seen one fail(when installed and adjusted properly). Just wondering what the point of sourcing a different one? Have you guys had failures? If so, explain..

Louie isnt doing big runs of cyls anymore so if you want new prepare to wait a few

You need to make sure the c2c on the bolt holes are the same. The c2c on the smaller carbs intakes are different than the c2c on the lager carb intakes

They will be kinda like this inside the cyl Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

They where welded up and filled in then reground. It will have one small port that goes up several mm on each intake port

Not sure who your builder is, but it is NOT common to stumble between 4k to 6k @185psi on race gas. 185psi is more than plenty to burn the fuel. 220psi is entirely too much for a dune bike. Not to mention harder then hell on bearings. I wouldnt even run my alky bikes at 220psi cause there isnt enough, if any, gains to out weigh the strain on the engine.

Loosen the jam nut at the clevace and unscrew the clevace

Yep

You still have an air pocket somewhere, or your master needs rebuilt. If its holding pressure and not leaking out the master then that is probably fine. Also check the adjuster at the pedal. If you lengthen the rod it will engage more

Silkoline Pro Prep should bring the plastics back.. simple green is your best friend on these things, wont damage rubber or dis color alum and works pretty well

Gotcha.. that makes more sence now I guess

Do all roll design swingarm have that big dent in the top?

^^^ best on the market

Absolutely not

I have a frame, no title, not sure what year, powder coated textured black

If it was me, I would put a new o-ring on it. Yamabond would hold in place yes, but, the way the cases are machined that(yamabond), even only if a couple thou thick, will change the tolerance on the cases to bearing(causing air leaks and other stupid stuff) not to mention if you put to much when you torque the cases you will have that shit in the bearing.. and running no pin stop or o-ring is a bad idea also. It will cause chatter and you will be looking for new cases. The cases(alum) heat up faster than the steel so in turn will try and spin the bearings in the case of nothing is retaining it.. JMO

If your weight is good(or light) to much spring will cause it to spin the tires out of the hole. In a perfect world you want light springs to slightly slip out of the hole(maximum acceleration) and enough weight on the lock up to take over that slip once the basket speed catches up with the hub speed..

If your weight is good(or light) to much spring will cause it to spin the tires out of the hole. In a perfect world you want light springs to slightly slip out of the hole(maximum acceleration) and enough weight on the lock up to take over that slip once the basket speed catches up with the hub speed..

Bog when launching and pull down on the big end. There is alot that goes into spring pressure and clutch weight to make it work together

Clock the pingel to point more to the right side carb, left side pingel outlet to the right carb and right side outlet to the left carb. Run the fuel line on the left carb behind the carb body and down to the carb inlet. Should get you clear of the pipes at least that's what I've found on the cheetahs and the DMs

Hot fuel builds less power then cold fuel. Wo yea it will hinder performance but you would never notice by the seat of the pants. Imo