JUSTWANNARACE

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I have a few stock oringed head with stock combustion chambers. I can cut to spec if you want lower than stock compression.

Your going to need to replace your valve seals..lol j/k its a two stroke the smoke is from the oil you mix in the gas to lubricate the crank and piston. Seems fine all except it sounds a little lean on bottom (pilot jet). Hence the hesitation (bog) when you first hit the throttle. Jmo

You will need to run the diodes if u want to run only one kill switch or it will send interference to the pickups and burn them up prematurely. I always just run 2 kills so if there is an issue you can pull one kill at a time to isolate problem to right or left. Do you know what he set the timing at? I wouldn't run over probly .070 if you are on pump gas. You will also want to run a ground strap from each coil to the motor. Jmo

Depending on what needle is in it this will be a good starting point .118 main and emulsion tube 45 pilot 1.5 turns on the air screw clip in the middle on the needle

Framers hell.. concrete guy didn't put them in guess what concrete guy gets a call and comes out and rotohammers and epoxies them in or he can kiss his retainer good by..lol that would be like calling the plumber cause the wall was put up a half in out of plumb...lmao

Yea oregon is funny no tornados or any crap like that but we have more Hd requirements then most states that do have tornados and crap. We have more hardware (nail plates, straps, HD's ect) than Damon near any other state I've seen..lol but yes I agree about the anchor bolts 5/8 bolt every 2-4 ft just told down the sill plate down..lol but I guess that many bolts make the sill seal do its job

Out here all the HD's and j-bolts for the shear walls have to be tied in to the rebar and inspected before pouring that's all.. but hell yea ill watch u stab 125 anchor bolts..lmao

Lots of fiber mesh and high density concrete and no joint or explanation board needed. Joints and expantion board are the reason for most cracks in a shitty concrete job. Water seaps in the joints weeps under the Crete freezes and creates cracks. Only joints I use is an cold joint if its not being poured all at once. Only thing I was wondering in the first vid is where the hell are all the j-bolts and hold downs? Lol

What kind of FPR are you running? And what is the constant fuel pressure? Sounds to me it starts to break up as the boost comes in.what duty cycle are the injectors running at WOT? And I have oringed stock heads on the shelf just for this application if that's something you would be interested in?

Estes, yellow fraight, forward air, con-way transport are all good shippers. The last one I shipped through con-way and it was around $400. Just strap it to a pallet so they can get a forklift under it and your good to go.

As much as I hate to say it.. and as much as the wife is not happy.. it think we are in the same boat.. a long trip to HOPE for no rain..

8mm x 1.25

Yes it uses stock studs

Billet DM intakes, comes with gaskets and bolts. Fits 44mm-52mm carbs (as pictured) also available for 38mm-41mm $149.95

Billet Banshee intakes with internal crossover, comes with gaskets and bolts. available for 26mm-41mm carbs $134.95

Yep still have some

Yes they use standard pro design domes

clippard powerjets come as pictured. $35ea

Banshee billet heads with Domes, orings and hardware. 19cc, 20cc, 22cc banshee domes 19cc, 20cc, 22cc cub domes with blaster angle $225 (add $25 for cub domes)

Mikuni 38TM billet float bowls comes with 10/32 barb fitting $60ea

39 pwk billet float bowls comes with 10/32 barb fitting $60ea

Is that from LA? Burbon st?? That'll be a bead gettin sum bitch at mardi grais (sp)