JUSTWANNARACE

Great idea.. should have little to no vibration so no worrys on keeping your hand on the bars.. ohh and no worries about putting anything under the bike when parked cause Harleys don't leak at all.. 98% of Harleys are still on the road.. so that's a good thing.. The other 2% actually made it home..

Go up on the pilot jet if it's happening when you hit the throttle. To much air not enough fuel on the transition from the pilot circuit to the needle and main..jmo

Pm sent

And at 66 and 66.50 the sleeve starts to get really thin and if you have port work done you need to pay attention to the distance on the sleeve from the intake port to the transfer port alot of port jobs are done early in cyl life so as you bore them out the sleeve gets weaker and if you don't have enough bridging (material) between the intake and transfer the intake skirt will break off and cause havoc

You need to have them bored at a professional machine shop that knows 2strokes or a reputable builder. Wiseco pistons require a min piston to wall clearance of .003. I usually set them up around .004 to prevent cold seizing and lack of correct break in.. any pistons from any manufacturer can be differant in size by a couple thou. So in turn each cyl needs to be bored to the exact piston going in that cyl. When I bore a set that I am not putting the motor together on I will label tops of pistons left and right. That being said if a machine shop tells you they can bore a cyl with out having the pistons they are full of shit and they WILL NOT be correct! JMO

If the crank is built correctly and pistons are weighed and balanced you shouldn't have any more vibration than a stocker. Usually don't start getting vibration that I've seen until you get to about 85mm bore and above and still isn't half as bad as say a cr500. Most bikes vibrate like a mofo from poor balancing and counter balancing(single cyls)

Slides in the correct carb with the cut away on the filter side? Did you put the chock crossover tube back in (little black hose in between the 2 carbs?

Probly not them bolts leaking. Its probly coming from the carbs and going through the drain hole on the cases.

Are your slides opening all they way? If not it will run on the needle and not pull into the main circuit causing a lean condition at wide open throttle. Just something to check..

The "can be pull started" tells me it's not a spark related issue. If it has no spark pull starting it isn't going give it spark. I would be looking else where. Look and make sure your harness isn't melted by the pipes. When did this start? Could be pistons getting to tight in the bore or crank tighning up when hot which would allow you to pull Starr but not turning over quick enough with the kick starter till it cools down. Also check the pilot circuit if it's to lean it will make it hard to start when hot. Jmo

Most likely supirior sleeve, t-rex or la sleeve cyl that LRD did the porting on.

Can't we all just get a bong.. I mean get along...lol

The hardest thing about the billet clamps is the fitment and trying to get them in all the way. I think a 2 piece clamp with a step from front to rear would work great. Slide the hose on, get the pipes fitted, then bolt on the 2 piece clamp to sucure.. jmo

Bad thing is, I still use alot of info I gained from back then (especially on our local track) and low and behold it still works..lol

Fluid connectors has high temp silicone hose that works well its blue with a red center.. used it for years and no melting issues.. not sure if you have a fluid connectors in Canada but most ag shops will stock it.

Can you fit anymore paddle on a 22" carcass...lol Put them on a 10 wide wheel and damn you have a HUGE footprint.. Ahh.. the good ol days..lol

sorry tried to edit first post and this is what happened..lol

Yes domes will need to be changed for alky (well at least to get max performace) and yes you can convert you're gas pwks to alky (drill main and emultion(depending on needle selection)), up the pilot(depending on main and emultion size), and add a power jet. Shouldn't need a pump(if you run billet bowls) on a 443 unless your running 1/8 mile +... give cam at redline a call he can set you up with domes and info on the carbs and can convert to pumper if you need

Yep its the spring off the crank seal.. have to split the cases and install new seals.

He's no gay.. he just holds the dick in his mouth till the queer gets there..

Don't really see any signs of deto. The place it broke out is between the transfer(or right into the first transfer) and the exhaust port so would be kinda of a weird spot to break from a ring snag, unless the locate pin on the intake side came out allowing the ring to spin.

How much are you willing to pay for "rush" fee for pistons bore and port? Lol

Float height set to high, needle and seat stuck, bad reeds, elecric issues.. there is a few things it could be. First thing I'd start with is pulling spark plug boots of, cut wire back half inch, spray both ends of boots out (carb clean, brake clean, electrical contact cleaner). Then move to checking float height and needle and seat.. pull reeds make sure they are not chipped or cracked, and they are closing all the way. Also check jetting may be just to rich.. jmo

LMAO

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