JUSTWANNARACE

I would use a 90* barb if you are going under the intake like that. Less likely for the pulse line to get kinked and burn down the motor from lack of fuel.. jmo

If your main jet is to large for the needle you are running you will get bleed by on the needle and main that will effect the pilot circuit.. just something to think about

It's not that bad. Take the intake off and the reeds out. Stuff some paper towels in the intake behind the piston. Line the inside of the intake with grease (and edges around paper towel). Put grease on the drill bit before drilling. Put grease on the tap before tapping. Screw in barb fitting for pump. Mark fitting flush to intake wall. Pull fitting out and cut to mark (as not to hang into the intake).Clean all grease out of intake. Pull rag out. Clean well. Put some 1211 on barb fitting and put in and tighten.

That's not a bad thing as they will be able to hold the pressure of the pump. I just try not to run a pump unless I have to cause its just another thing to have issues with

Are they 40mm pwks? Post a pic of them and the fuel inlet. If the fuel inlet points up the are gravity feed (as long as the seat hasn't been changed) if the point down they are pumper carbs and WILL require a pump.

Any stock lenght cable will work so either OEM or motion pro. I don't much care for the Terry cables

I've had great luck with bb shearers on the 4mm alky cubs. 20 or 21cc domes would be better for alky @ .042-.045 squish. Timing I'd start around 7 if you are running 1/8th mile read plugs and go from there. You are going to fight tuning with the 35mm air strykers. Get a set of 39mm pwks set up for alky with billet bowls put a dual feed pingel in the tank and gravity feed it, less hassle and don't have to worry about over pumping and dumping fuel on the track.. JMO

Was is nitromethane? Can you run it in a banshee?

Those are for the inlet and outlet that you probly did not remove

I would say it's a little lean. But the left side is washed from coolant imo.. look at the front stud, from the timing edge of the cyl to the water jacket is black from exhaust from a blown oring or a cracked oring land in the dome itself causing it to pull water on the intake stroke.. jmo

If you are using Yamalube 2r I would run it at 32:1.. jmo

What premix are you using?

Be careful running 20:1 (depending on what it was ran at before) if you didn't go up a couple sizes on the main jet you will burn that motor up in a hurry. Jmo

Counter shaft seal would only leak if it is running as the oil level is not high enough to leak from there when parked. Jmo

Bad radiator cap?

Like spurdy said reed spacers or billet intakes. Or I just usually bend the actuator arm down a little bit. No clue on the stock airbox never ran one or set one up with a airbox and 35s

Must be a toomey needle as an oem needle only has 5 clip positions and should say 5N7 on it. If it is a toomey needle you probly need to go up on the pilot jet. Best bet is to find some stock oem needles. Stock work better than the toomeys and easier to tune.. jmo

Also of you are using A-corn nuts make sure the studs are in deep enough that the A-corn nut is not bottoming out before they seat.

Stock pipes? If it's bogging off bottom you probly need to go up on the pilot jet

They are done and I don't blame them. Everyone looking to save a $ buy from amazon, ebay, China cyls and parts, ect.. Then bitch when it doesnt bolt right on or fail after a few hrs.. and wonder why the small shops are closing there doors. Leases, utilities and keeping parts in stock isn't cheap, but most purchasers are.. you wonder why the one or 2 guy shops are closing down. Spend a few $s more and SUPPORT YOUR SPONSERS!! Ohh yea they have to pay for that too (to be a sponsor and advertize)

Plug on the right is hotter then hell.. plug on the left looks like aluminum on the strap. Either way they are lean as hell. If it's lean hanging (won't rev down) start with checking pilot jet. But I almost bet you have an air leak somewhere. What is your timing set at or is it a stock timing plate? What elevation are you riding at?

First thing I would do is get rid of the 2 into 1 carb set up and fmf pipes. You will probly pick up about 10 hp right there.

All depends on what you want to do with the bike.. trails, dunes, woods, coal hills, drag race, ect.. There is many options depending on riding style. Suspension, a arms, swingarm, axle, axle width, a arm width, shocks.. is all going to depend on what you plan on using it for. Motor wise call cam at redline 541-367-2453 he will steer you in the right direction for what you want and need motor wise with great results. Also don't get in a hurry if you want it done right, don't expect the motor to be back to you in a week or two, shit takes time to do it right with the right components but you will be happy with the end results...jmo

You said you where familiar with car motors.. 4mm crank in a banshee.. is like taking a chevy 350 and bolting in a crank out of a 400. Bolts right in and makes more cc's (car world ci's).. 400 crank in a 350 make a 383.. a stock banshee motor is 347cc bolt in a 4mm crank and it's a 373cc. a 2stroke has no valves so the "port opening" acts as a valve in a car motor.. Now on to actual "porting" .. when people say they have a "ported motor" the "port opening" has been ground to change the duration the exhaust and intake stay open or closed.. like changing a cam in car car motor.. There is alot more involved in a 2 stroke like transfer heights, angles of ports, blow down, squish, combustion chamber, ect.. but that gives you the basic idea on what people are saying when they have a "ported" motor

For starters.. what pump is on it? Post pics of pump. Things you can do to fix it. You can always move the pump.. the longer the pulse line the less pulse activating the pump. Put a jet in the pulse line to slow it down. (If you don't want to move it) Use a differant pump (depending on what's on it) Raise floats to put more pressure on the needle and seat Convert carbs to pump Buy pumper carbs (pwks off a snomo)