JUSTWANNARACE

What carbs? And where did you get the idle screw? If they are stock carbs you have to grind down the nipple on the carb where the idle screw goes.

Like.. he is probly running a pump..lol

Lmao.. figured you'd like that

Yes very much so.. Shaun and Susan are good people. They have been in this game for along time. They just don't advertise or do the Internet social media crap.

[Shrug] tim wanted out

Yes sir

Cascade was bought out by Shaun and Susan at Top Dog Racing

"Break in" is not just to seat the rings If it is a stock cyl motor (or any steel sleeve cyl) the piston is aluminum. The piston swells (especially when new) quicker than the sleeve. After the piston is heated and cooled a few times it doesn't swell as rapidly or as much as when "new". So for me I do suggest a break in period (heat cycles, 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle, ect..) on steel sleeve motors to allow the piston to harden (acclimate to the verious temp changes). Most steel sleeve motors if they haven't been broke in right when you pull them apart you will see scoring on all 4 corners of the piston. Same thing if you just start up a steel sleeve motor and just take off with out letting it warm up (aka cold seizing). So breaking in is just a process to allow the piston to acclimate to the steel sleeve (swell and contract). This is all determined off of piston to wall clearance the more clearance the less break in time. Nicasil is differant as it is more forgiving and swells quicker than a steel sleeve. But everyone has there own opinion and this is just my opinion.

But may be a float height issue

Not a needle and seat issue then most likely..jmo

Are the carbs pushing fuel out the over flows while running?

From your pics your are actual pumper carbs

Sorry that was for nastyracing

Where your carbs converted to a pump, or actual pumper carbs?

I don't think it's "rich" by any means or you wouldn't be backing out plugs. A true 155 is way to small and defeats the purpose of drilling the emultion to .122... Check your compression also cause 18cc domes on a cub (unless it has a really narrow squish band and the squish is really loose) is going to be high. I would also look into electrical. May not be igniting the fuel properly. Check all grounds. Grind all paint to bare metal for the ground at cdi box. And also where the coil mounts. New ngk tb05ema spark plug boots, cut the wires back 1/2" before screwing new boots on

If it was a timing issue the plug strap would be burnt and the metal around the strap (thread portion) would be blued.. jmo..

Are you sure the main is a 155 or has it been drilled too? If the main is a true 155 that is your deto problem right there! Are you sure it's fuel blowing out? If so have you been buying the same fuel from the same place?

What pilot, main, emultion, needle, power jet, what's the powerjet drilled to? What pump? What pistons are you running? What is the squish? What squish angle? What fuel petcock? Do you have a pic of the plugs? What do the fuel and timing look like on the plug? What where the carbs set up for? What size motor? And what size is your motor? Alky can be a pain when you are first learning but once you get it figured out its pretty easy and you will love it!

Not that it matters but if you get that for less than $800 that's a smokin deal. Just part out prices.. Cases150-200 Cyls 200 Frame 200 A-arms 100 Stator and flywheel 250+ Ect..

Pressure plate may not be aligned properly. Arrow on the pressure plate needs to line up with arrow on inner clutch boss.

DO NOT set up less than .003 .003-.004 imo anything less you're asking for trouble. Even at .003 with stock cyl alow plunty of warm up time before "getting on it" to prevent "cold seizing" jmo

Sounds like the cyls where bored .005 to big or the bike got hot and the piston collapsed. If it's been knocking sence you pit it together I'd say who ever did the bore job was a little off. The should be measured right above the intake ports as this is the widest point on the piston. and should be measured exhaust to intake side as pistons are not actually round. Typical piston to wall clearance is .003 yours is .008 so loose for sure. The stamped number on top of the piston (say 64.75) is irrelevant when it comes to boring and doing the machine work. And each piston will actually very in size a couple though. That's why anyone that knows what they are doing will require to have the pistons in hand when boring. I will even label piston to the cyl (left and right) cause most of the time they will very slightly.

A "true" leak down test on a 2 stroke should consist of a pressure test (which is what most people do) and a vacuum test!

Yes it can.. you are testing pressure (leak down down test pressurized from the inside out). You could have a vacuum leak (the seal not holding on the intake stroke). Most people don't think about the reverse pressure and only test from the inside out. if you do pull it apart, check the crank snout for wear from the seal. If it is grooved it could be push against the side of the groove. So showing that it's sealed under pressure. But could be centering on the groove under vacuum (ie sucking tranny fluid).. jmo

Plug looks pretty gray. What's the other side look like? Might have an air leak but I'm gonna bet you have and ignition problem. Coil maybe cdi. Reason I say that is you have no color coming off your strap on that plug. Start by pulling spark plug boots off the wire spray them out with carb clean or brake clean. Cut the wire back about 1/2" and screw the boots back on. Then go to coil and cdi if that doesn't help.. jmo