bansheesandrider

I have never been able to match the bearings up at a bearing supply house due to the little pins that fit in the notches of the cases. I was able to match them as far as size and clip grooves but no one could get them with the pins. I would recomend going to Cascade or a site sponsor, they wont rip you off.

The name is Yamaha Frame Silver. It is the same for all years of silver frames and I have never found an off the shelf color by that name. You should be able to get touch up paint from Yamaha, if you are doing a complete paint you can use any silver paint. An automotive paint supply house should be able to come up with something that will match.

The crank in my 1989 model that I bought brand new came apart and blew up when the bike was 1.5 years old. The only thing that was done to it was a set of pipes and it had paddles on it. Since then, every Banshee I have gets the crank welded before I do anything else.

ALL of the connectors are wrong. The wire harnesses break down as follows- 87-94, though some people say 87 &88 are different, 95-96, 97-2001, and 2002-2006 in USA. the only way that harness will work is to splice on the correct connectors.

As far as purging that is what I was told when I looked into converting to alky 20 years ago. Maybe it was because we have much more moisture here in Oregon, I don't know, that was just what I was told. As for the fire danger, I have seen it first hand at the drag races(cars, not ATVs). The fuel mileage everybody knows about, I have read it on here, the air/fuel mixture for combustion is double the fuel over what gasoline is. In my opinion, alky is great for the track but it is not the best fuel for trail riding due to the decreased range per tank.

X2 on this and also take apart the silencers, clean everything out and repack them. And yes you might be lean with no airbox and only 200 mains. Bump up your mains a couple of sizes and you might even try a 27.5 pilot also, but the stock 25 might be okay.

Are you aware of the downfalls of running alky- your fuel usage will be twice what it is with gas, so you will only be able to go half as far on a tank of fuel; you have to purge the fuel system if the bike is going to sit for more than 1/2 hour, so when you break for lunch you need to purge it, when you quite riding for the day you need to purge it, etc. Alky likes collect moisture out of the atmosphere, so you don't want alot of it sitting around getting water in it, that means you will have to get fuel before every ride. You will need to get your domes, timing, and carbs set up for alky so you are going to spend a fair amount of cash just to even try alky. The other problem is alky will burn on your skin without being able to see it burning. The only plus is it doesn't cost as much as race gas. All in all it is alot of work to save a few bucks on fuel, especially when you will be able to only go half as far on a tank of fuel.

If it is righht behind the cylinders and in front of the clutch arm, it it a drain hole and the oil you are seeing is whats left after the premix evaporated from you carb overflow hoses). The hole is 3/4 to 1 inch in diameter and is basically a tunnel so liquid can drain out from under the carbs, it should be open and go straight through. If the hole is back under the rear motor mount and about 1/4 inch in diameter, then you tranny vent came out.

Yes the cover supports the shaft and keeps it centered in the seal. If you do what you said it will shorten the seal life and also the bushing in the case. If you don't want to remove all that stuff to get to the sprocket, then you should buy a 3 piece billet stator cover! But, hell it's your bike, do whatever you want to it.

Do you know your way around the carb? Do you know which screw is the idle SPEED screw and which screw is the idle MIXTURE screw? Do you have the TORS removed? My wife's bike is running FMF Fattys, a 2:1 AIR FILTER and at sea level she is jetted with a 290 main,and a 27.5 pilot, the clip is in the middle of the stock needle, and the air screw is AROUND 1.5 turns. We originally ran it with the stock 25 pilot and it was difficult to start and had a fairly violent hit when it came on the powerband, going to the 27.5 pilot made it easier to start,gave it more bottom end and smoothed it out when it came on the powerband. You need to remove your carbs and clean them ONE AT A TIME, some parts are different from the left carb and right carb( the float bowl specifically), make sure you have the correct parts in the correct carb. Clean them, properly jet them, sync them, make sure the choke tube is in place. How are you adjusting your choke? It is either on full, on half or off and there are no adjustments that I know of. All that being said, my bike was hard to start, would only start if I towed it when cold and then would start right up warm. I was on a 1 day ride and as the day went on it got worse. Eventually it would not even tow start. Got home, checked things out, found had no spark. It turned out to be the AFTERMARKET CDI box that had less than 20 hours on it. It was the only thing I could get when I was at ST Anthonys 2 months before.

You would have to fabricate new mounting brackets to start with and even then they probably would not line up correctly because of the differences in frame arrangements. You stand a better chance of putting Raptor 350 plastics on it as a Raptor 350 is just a restyled Warrior. There are enough ugly Banshees out there thanks to Maier's Raptor plastic for the Banshee, please don't degrade the Banshee any more by putting its plastic on a Warrior. If the thing is that ugly to you, sell it and buy a real Banshee instead of screwing up 2 bikes trying to put Banshee plastic on a Warrior.

ALL years of Banshees use the H6M headlight bulbs. The TAIL LIGHT bulb changed in 02 because they added the BRAKE LIGHT which required a double filament 1157 bulb instead of the old style single filament wedge base bulb. The only changes made to the headlights were switching from a glass lens on the early bikes to a plastic lens on the newer bikes, and they changed the wiring connectors a couple of tiimes.

YOU ARE ASKING FOR TROUBLE! When you start riding, things will shift around and your idle will be all over the place,not to mention that the cable will stretch and you will be contiually adjusting the cable to make it idle. Just install the idle screws and be done with it. All you have to do is start small with the drill bit and work up to the correct size, you may want to be slightly on the small side when you start tapping the holes.

T3s were made for J arm bikes, I know of at least 3 Banshees that have them, including the ones we took off the wife's bike. You can put T3s on an A arm bike, but the tie rods might put a small dimple in them where it hits the pipe. That being said, we did not like the T3s because of a lack of bottom end power. As far as I know most other pipes will fit both J arm and A arm bikes.

No, 1990 was the last year for J arms!!!!!!!!!!!! I have owned a brand new 1990 straght off the dealers floor and it had J arms, it was red and white with a blue seat just like 1990s were supposed to be.

90 is a J arm bike. A arms came about in 91!

89 & 90 Banshees are 4x156 on the rear. All Blasters are 4x110 on the rear I think. All other Yamaha SPORT quads are 4x115 on the rear and ALL of the sport quads are 4x156 on the front. The other thing is that factory Blaster wheels are steel not aluminum. All Raptor, Warrior, YFZ450 wheeels will work on Banshees except the rear of 89-90 bikes.

I believe it already has a name-Banshee!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Do you have aftermarket pipes on it? Porting won't do a damn thing if you do not have improved exhaust, which should be the first performance improvement you make. Then you need better air filters, reeds, more compression via a cut head or a cool head with smaller domes. There are several mods you should make for reliability also-welded crank, modded shift star, pancake bearing, billet impeller, better clutch and springs, better suspension,etc. You definetly NEED to talk to a builder about what you have now and what you want to end up with and how to get there. The list to improve your bike is endless, and you should ALWAYS make your bike more reliable before you make it faster. Remember, your bike can travel farther in 1/2 hour than you can walk ALL day. And as for your original question, always use Wiseco pistons!

Wrap a ratchet strap around the upper and lower arms so that when you tighten it it pulls the arms and ball joint tight into the spindle and keeps them from spinning.

I run 10s and I like the way the bike slides/handles. I know I am giving up some traction out of the hole to an 8 inch wheel, but I come out of tree holes and climb hills just fine. The 8s probably ride a little better, but I like the stability I have in the corners.

Running a high quality synthetic gearbox oil would do more good!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Guys that have tranny problems are using too cheap of, or the wrong kind of oil in their trannys. I recomend Klotz Flex Drive 30 oil, been using it for 20 years in 7 different Banshees and 2 Blasters that I maintain and NONE of them have ever had a bearing, shift fork, gear, or clutch failure or a clutch ball weld itself!!!!!!!!!!!

What are you looking for ball joints for? Stock Banshee A arms/ball joints are only replaceable as a complete assembly. If you have aftermarket arms it will depend on what style they are, my Lonestar arms use the 87 Yamaha Warrior ball joints. The only source I have found for them is Yamaha or East Coast ATV(online or Ebay). The stock ones were $57 when I first used them in 1997, but they have gone up to a minimum of $92 now. East Coast has them on Ebay for $40 for 1, $80 for 2, or $150 for 4. My Armodillo arms use a different style and I have not done any research on them.

RD350LC and RZ350 motors have a wide ratio tranny and powervalves in the exhaust port, and autolube pumps,tach drives, and speedo drives. Banshees don't have powervalves so they can have a bigger water jacket for better cooling, and they have a close ratio tranny for off road. Those are the major differences. The reeds SHOULD fit.

That is the CDI box NOT the stator!!!!!!! There are 2 stator plugs-87-94 round plug and 95 on square plug. That is the ONLY difference between the two.