bansheesandrider

I would have a set of 27.5s on hand, you won't know for sure until you try it. My wife's bike was bone stock,pipes and all,when I put the Toomey 2:1 air filter with a K&N element on it; we had to go with 27.5s to get it to run and start correctly at sea level. This was just adding a better filter, no pipes and was at sealevel,but every bike I have messed with improved breathing(pipes and filters) benefited from a bigger pilot. Also make sure you get the choke tube back between the carbs and keep the float bowls on the carb they came off of as the left bowl is different from the right.

They are supposed to have a slight bend in them. You pull off the O ring and the wire clip and it slides out the back. It should show up in the parts book in either the crankcase or cooling sections.

Definetly go with Wiseco Pro Lites. Yes they are a forged piston, but that is the type of piston used in EVERY true high performance motor from NHRA, NASCAR, and most other motorsports. Your qualified and expierenced machinist will bore your cylinders so that you have the proper piston clearance when the motor is at temperature. All you will need to worry about is breaking it in properly and letting it warm up correctly before every ride.

X2, Starwriter has the correct info on this. 87-88 and 91 on are 4x115 just like all the other yamaha sport quads except the Blaster. 89-90 are 4x156 front and rear and therefore you can only use a 10 inch wheel.

Search on here is not very good BUT if you use google, type in what you want to search for and then add "bansheehq" to it you should get better results.

NOT STOCK, there is no crossbar welded in them. All Banshees came with a crossbar, they never had bars like the Raptor or YFZ that were crossbarless.

X3, everyday this guy has a new thread for a BS Craigslist posting!!!!!!!!!!

Are the correct float bowls on the correct carbs? The left carb float bowl is different from the right carb float bowl. Do you have the choke tube/hose in place? What are your mods, elevation, and current jet sizes? Do a compression and leakdown tests. Since it is backfiring, you should check your reeds and also put NEW plugs in it. Does it have bright blue/white spark, or is it orangish? You might also check the pickup coil gap.

SHOW ME PICTURES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OR GTFO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This has been covered in the past, you should use the search. Supposedly some years have different timing curves. But if you change the plug AND the terminals in the plug on the wires, you can use it. The wire terminals inside the plugs are different between early style plugs and late style plugs. Also, if it is a 1997 or newer CDI, it will have the park brake rev limiter in it which means that you will have to make sure that the Green/Yellow wire never touches ground.

Whats your compression? If it is not actually cutting out and/or poppping and banging, it could just be a tired top end.

NO, you can NOT install afterarket domes in a stock head- stock heads DO NOT have interchangeable domes. You need an aftermarket head, preferably from Noss, Chariot, or ProDesign.

If it truly just needs a hone job, then why do you need to buy pistons? Are they broke or cracked? If it is just being honed and your pistons are OK, I would just buy some rings and the required gaskets and put it back together.

No expierence with CPIs, but I would definetly put in a 27.5 pilot, 310 is probably rich so try a 300 or maybe even a 290.

this will show all stock colors except the all blue bikes from 2000 on, http://www.clubdelbanshee.com.ar/fotos/fotos.html

Whether you resleeve your cylinders OR buy different cylinders, I would not recomend boring them to 64.75mm because that is what you have for pistons. If you resleeve you can start with a fresh 64mm bore and get maximum life from your cylinders/sleeves. If you buy used cylinders, only bore them as needed to get a smooth, round, straight bore.As far as stock cylinders go, boring is a machine operation to repair worn or damaged cylinders, there will be no gain in power from going to a bigger bore than what is needed to cleanup the wear or damage. I would either sleeve your cylinders(especially if they are ported) or find some repacement cylinders, get a smooth, straight round bore on them, buy pistons to fit and SELL the pistons and rings you already have. By the way, if the pistons you have are part number 513MO6475 then they ARE 64.75mm pistons and the rings should be the same size as the pistons- It does not matter if we are talking ATVs, motorcycles,cars, diesel trucks or whatever, if it says it is for a certain size bore that is what bore it fits, NOT what they actually measure.

Actually it is 2002 and newer and the earlier bikes had a tailight only that comes on with the headlights. And usually( at least here in Oregon) you only need lights if you are out after dark.

When you replaced the cases, did you get a MATCHED SET or is it a mixed set? What is the runout of the used countershaft? Is the kick idler bushing wore out and the gear wobbling? What is the runout of the mainshaft? How is the bushing in the clutch basket?

They MAY line up, BUT are they machined correctly to the right diameter? Yamaha line bores the case set when they are bolted together and when you start mixing and matching case halves it throws off the diameter of the holes for the crank and tranny shafts/bearings, due to the parting line being slightly different in EVERY set of cases. If I was your buddy, I would demand that you use a MATCHING SET of cases. Some guys have got away with mixing them, but other people have had ALL KINDS of wierd problems after doing it. Be a REAL FRIEND and fix your buddy's bike correctly instead of turning his pride and joy into a POS.

delete

You can polish your OEM clutch cover and just buy a stator cover. Polished aluminum is cheaper, you can do the clutch cover yourself, it won't rust but it will dull and need to be touched up from time to time. Chromed aluminum is more expensive, there is also the possibility of the chrome flaking off the aluminum. My general rule is to polish my aluminum, and chrome steel or iron items.

KLOTZ FLEX DRIVE 30, I have been running it for 20 years and have NEVER had a problem with a bearing, gear, shift fork, clutch or clutch pushrod/ball. I have tried motor oil, ATF, Honda Proline gear oil and BelRay GearSaver, but the Klotz works the best. The bike also shifts the best with Klotz. The guys that run ATF have problems with the clutch pushrod and ball welding together UNLESS they have a pancake bearing. I have never had this problem in the 7 Banshees and 2 Blasters that I maintain(including wife's and kid's bikes that roll down hills with the clutch pulled in) and none of them have a pancake bearing.When I ran motor oil or ATF I always had glitter in the oil when I drained it, doesn't happen with the Klotz.

What brand of "rev box'? The only 3 CDI boxes I would recomend(in order) are stock Yamaha, Yamaha GYTR, and the Dyne FS tuneable box. I would only recomend the Dyna if you get the programming software and cable and then run the bike on a dyno to figure out a timing curve that works for you.There is no reason to run ANY other CDI box as the OEM one makes plenty of spark, has a decent timing curve AND IS THE MOST RELIABLE BOX OUT THERE! All of the other CDI boxes have a pretty high rate of failure. Also, there is no "rev limiter" in the stock CDI box so any talk of increasing the rev limit of the Banshee with an ignition box is BS,just to be clear, on the USA models 1997 and newer there is a Park Brake Rev LImiter that limits the engine when the park brake is set but does nothing when the park brake is released. I know DYNA does not recomend using their box plus a timing plate. I would go back to the stock box and use a timing plate.

Is it getting hot because of a lack of coolant flow or is it a lack of airflow over the radiator. In the dunes when doing treeshots, my bike gets hot due to a lack of airflow and a quick, speedy run across open sand cools it down. I also run WaterWetter, similar or same idea as Engine Ice. The Mull impeller is supposed to be engineered to prevent cavitation and their stuff has a pretty good reputation. Also, do you KNOW how hot it is actually getting? When I put my Trail Tech on, I was pleasantly surprised that the actual temperature when riding was not as hot as I thought it would be- actual temp was about 175-185 when moving.