bansheesandrider

Use the choke and/or rejet for colder weather!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

NO, brake fluid is NOT a petroleum based fluid like oil is. If you put a petroleum based fluid in your brake reservoir, you have just RUINED the seals in the entire system. Assuming you used the correct fluid, you may just need to bleed the system properly. If you have properly bled it, then maybe it does need to be rebuilt.

I could not get the tach to work correctly on the Vapor I had on my Banshee. I even took the whole bike to Trail Tech and had them work on it. I finally decided the tach was too hard to read/not needed on my bike and Trail Tech gave me a Vector to try( I got to keep the Vapor also). It works perfect and my speedo has been verifeid with a GPS.

Quads that look like that should be called Raptor 350 Twins not Banshees

Did he do away with the air filter box? The coolant reservoir mounts to the air box, so that may be why you need a new mount. But as everybody says, just do away with it. Take the hose that come from the radiator and route it straight down the verticle frame tube in front of the motor, zip tie it to the tube, cut it off even with the bottom of the frame and you are good to go.

X2 on what fits and Minkia. Unfotunately you have the orphan years of Banshees as it has the oddball wire harness AND CDI box.

Banshees did not have a stop on the footpeg until they added the factory footguards, in 1991 I believe. They put the stop on the peg so the kicker did not hit the footguard. On the bikes that did not come with footguards the kicker was stopped by the internal stop inside the clutch cover at a much lower point than where the footguards were eventually mounted.

I question this place because they want you to remove the studs from the cylinders, I have never had to do that when I've had my jugs bored.

If you are running straight cut primary gears then the TZ and maxload setup is best. If you are still running the helical gears(stock type) then 2 maxloads is best.

The RD350LC is the same engine as a RZ350, they just changed the model designation in some countries.

The RD came first, it was air cooled and did not have power valves. The RZ came next, and it was liquid cooled and had powervalves. Then they came out with the Banshee and it did not have powervalves but it is liquid cooled. In some countries the RZ was sold as a RD350LC, but it still had powervalve and was liquid cooled. Now, Banshee cases are the same casting as RZ cases, they just did not machine the tach drive hole or the pad for the Autolube pump. You can bolt RZ cylinders on a Banshee and the head should go either way. Very little if anything from an aircooled RD will fit on a Banshee. When they modified the liquidcooled RZ to use it in the Banshee, they did away with the powervalves to increase the size of the water jacket for botter cooling. This also neccisitated that they go to a close ratio transmission so it did not fall off the powerband when shifted.

Rings are cheap. I would not reuse them, I have never put my cylinders back on with used rings. You want maximum performance, and the way to get there is with the best cylinder seal possible!

Guys that can't control a twist throttle must be some limp wristed fellas!!

I grew up riding dirt bikes. When I switched to quads, my thumb was ALWAYS tired. So I put a twist on and never looked back. When we put my daughter on a Blaster, she always had to stop every 15 minutes to rest her thumb. We(me, wife, daughter) decided to try a twist and she could ride all day without stopping. It is all in what you are used to. Guys that can't ride a twist through whoops are not relaxed enough and need to learn how to let the bike move without it whipping their body around. Everybody is entitled to like what they like. I would say if you already have the twist to put the bike together and try it carefully. If you don't like it switch to a thumb or dual gasser.

X2, Are you sure you are lean? Or is it starving for more fuel AND air? You can't just keep putting in bigger jets and expect the power to keep going up. Once you find the correct air fuel ratio for your set up that is where it needs to be. If you want more power, you have to get more air into the motor before you add more fuel.

I thought the spec sheet for my 89 when I bought it new was 370. 87 and 88 might be different slightly because 89s had 10 inch rear wheels and a six bolt rear sprocket intead of 9s and a 4 bolt sprocket on 87 &88.

That looks word for word the info I posted in another thread awhile back,Except it is 2002-2006 on the wire harness. It could be my typo or yours, I don't know. Depending on the year, the light/run switch might have a different connector as does the key switch. The stator itself is the same for all years,BUT the plug on the end changed between 1994 and 1995.CDI boxes follow the wire harness breaks EXCEPT they are the same from 1997 to 2006, the wire harness changed then because Yamaha added brake lights to the bike. Some people claim different boxes have different timing curves but I can't verify this. Headlights will have different connectors to match the wire harness, but you can just get the pigtail coming out of the light housing and update your lights. By the way early lights have glass lenses(better) while late light are plastic(melts), I am not sure of the year they changed.

DO THE CARBS ONE AT A TIME. Some of the internal parts are different between the left carb and the right carb and you don't want to get them mixed up. Also, make sure you get the choke tube back in place when you put them on , and make sure you get them synced properly.

A lot of the connector are the same as 80s or 90s Toyota pickups. BUT I went to my local Toyota dealer and tried to buy them, but they said they were no longer available. You might try this place to see what they have-http://vintageconnections.com/. I wanted to build a harness from scratch to accomadate a high output stator with the ground floated, a DC conversion, and other mods but had no luck finding connectors that would work with the OEM stuff, so I figured that if I was going to do it, I would have to go with Weatherpack or Duetsch connectors and wire accordingly.

OR the Toomey 2 into 1 filter. I use them on all my bikes but mine all have the K&N filter and an Outerwears for riding sand.

In the factory setup, the lid is what holds the filter in place. Without the lid it will suck in dirt at the base of the filter. IF you want to run without the lid , you need to get a Pro Flow or similar adapter that bolts to the box and then the filter clamps to it. Or if you want to cobble it together, you can cut the stock lid right behind the front set of clips that fasten it to the box and just use the front part to keep the filter tight.

X2 Stay away from Ricky Stator or RM Stator garbage.

Make sure you replace the cases as a set, both top and bottom. The way Yamaha machines the cases at the factory, they are a matched set. You cannot use a different top with your bottom or your top with a different bottom. Make sure your crank is in good shape and I would get it welded while it is apart. My first crank came apart when the bike was a little over a year old with nothong more than pipes on it.Definetly replace ALL the seals while you are in there and make sure all the bearings and the shift forks are in good shape.

Get a dial bore gauge, or snap gauge and micrometer, or a set of calipers and MEASURE your bores. It takes less time than loggong on the net and asking questions.

Iuse either blue or red Loctite on EVERY fastener on my bikes, along with using a torque wrench to tighten EVERTHING to the Proper torque. Since I started doing this i have never had a bolt come loose or something fall off because of it. Most bolts come loose or breask because they were not tightened to the proper torque.