bansheesandrider

Without the IDLE screws your idle may flucuate when you turn the bars, and as the cables stretch the idle speed will lower until it won't idle anymore. You really should get the IDLE SPEED screws installed so you can set the idle correctly and also to help with the syncing of the carbs.

I would recomend going with the Trail Tech Vector, it is the same as the Vapor except it does not have the tachometer. I am running the Vector for over 5 years with NO problems. I tried a Vapor first but had nothing but problems with it- if the temp gauge was below 100 degrees and I blipped the throttle, it would completely do a reset and I would lose my hours and RPM and clock settings. I had it to Trail Tech(bike and all) twice and they could not figure it out so when I said I did not need the tach they gave me a Vapor and some other stuff and let me keep the Vapor. I decided it was too hard to read the tach on the trail and if I did not know when to shift after riding my Banshee for 20 years I shoildn't be on it!!!!!

Replace your needle and seats with genuine Mikuni or Yamaha parts and make sure that they have new O rings on the outside of the seats.

Did you check your rods while it was apart? Is your crank welded? When your crank spreads and the rod bearings go away they make a clattering noise.

Either a factory cable or a Motion Pro should work fine. If you are tearing those up you need to inspect your clutch system. Make sure the actuator arm and its bearing are in good shape, the pushrod and ball slide freely inside the mainshaft,do you have more spring than you really need? Do you have a lockup plate in it?

PULL THE HEAD TO FIND OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Why not? You have to be able to weld in the tubes for the conversion and then you are still going to have to have it all powdercoated. Just find an A arm frame with a title, have it stripped and powder coated, get a set of upper Arms and swap everything off your old frame to the new one. All the other mounts for the NEEDED stuff are the same. Some pipes made for J arm frames won't clear the tie rods on a A arm frame, most notably Toomey T3s but alot of the others will. I am in the process of collecting parts to do this to my 89.

Look on the web for pictures of the various brands of stators, etc.

Sounds to me like the main jet is off, it is acting up right when the main jet comes into play. You need to post up ALL of your mods and EVERY thing we need to know about your setup and riding location,style and elevation. You also need to verify the manufacturer of your flywheel, stator, CDI box and coil and make sure you have good clean connections at ALL of your grounds.

In Oregon the limit is 97db. The Cascade silencers will get you well below that. They dont come with any paperwork showing this, but you could get a brochure from the Oregon Dunes Area that shows sound test results,they will be listed in that. When I put them on my bike(different pipes) I was tested at 88db.But my friends 2 bikes both have T5s and are legal here.

The Deutsch terminals listed at the bottom of the first link are the best in my opinion.Depending on where you buy them, they come with open barrel terminals as shown in the link or you can get them with closed barrel terms. that require a special crimper(expensive) that will give you a connection that is what the car manufacturers are requiring for ECM wiring. Those Duetsch connectors are water, oil, dust proof, once the terminals are crimped on the wires you can service the connectors with just a screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers. Because they are sealed, they always come apart easily, The only one I ever had problems getting apart were ones that had been in a propane fire on a forklift. Plus, if you do need to get replacement parts, most good NAPA stores can get them for you.

A rough estimate would be between 35 and 150. Most Banshees fall somewhere in that range. Very few bikes make near the power that their owners guesstimate.

This is just a slightly better jury rigg!!!!!! Then you would have to take apart ANY crank you buy to put bigger bearings on it and it will bee next to impossible to find seals to fit that will hold up. The pepsi can shims were put in there to take up the clearance from where the bearing bores were already to big. Buy a matched set of cases and a good crank and build it.

There is no way in hell you can build a decent bike from the ground up for $3000!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The little things that nickle and dime you will eat up the budget. That is why you arte better to buy a used bike cheap and then modify it to fit you. I would try to find a running bike for 1800-2000 and then spend the rest of your money getting it in top shape and setup for you, or find a COMPLETE bike with a bad motor for less than 1000 and fix it.

X2 on this, they changed the brakes in 1990 but A arms did not show up to 1991.

93 was lavender/white. Purple/Yellow was 94 and 95 http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/banshee/color.aspx

Why would anybody want to go to Sandlake? It is flat, overrode, and full of unsupervised kids. Head south to the big dune!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The rubber pieces on the factory covers are there to quiet noise by absorbing vibration.

You are not going to find a better bearing from a bike shop, you will have to get it from a bearing house. That being said, tell your bearing shop you want a heavier duty version of the stocker. It will probably have more balls or rolers in it. And that being said, I have never seen a stock transmission bearing fail, I have seen them have rough spots from contamination, but that is not the bearings fault.

2 stators- 87-94 and 95-2006, 3 CDIs 87-94, 95-96, 97-2006, 4 wire harnesses 87-94, 95-96,97-2001,2002-2006, all years are the same for the voltage regulator and coil. I would go with the 97-2001 setup as it is the most common with the least age.95-96 stuff is odd and harder to come by.

You can! Just stick one nipple in your intake boot and let the other one hang free to the outside of the bike, repeat this on the other cylinder and then connect the nipples hanging free with a piece of garden hose!!!!!!!!!!!!

X2!!!!!!!!!!! OEM all the way!

One that cleans and polishes it self when I get home!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

X2

Rick's stator is NOT THE SAME as Ricky Stator, it it from Rick's Electrics. That being said, I had to buy a Ricks Electric CDI box on a trip to St Anthony's 4 years ago because my stocker failed. The bike ran fine while I was in Idaho, but when I tried to ride it a month later at home in Oregon we had to tow it to start it and eventually it would not start at all. The Rick's bike had failed, I did get them to warranty it after jumping through ALOT of hoops. I now carry it as a spare and run OEM stators, CDIs, coils, etc.