bansheesandrider

X2 on this. Avgas is meant for engines that are relatively low RPM, not a high revving 2 stroke. You can try mixing it 50/50, on my setup, I can run 40% race and 60% 93 octane pump, try that and see if it knocks. If it does go to 50/50.

Here is how to spend your $1000- get a set of good pipes, I would go with FMF Fattys or T%s for where you are riding. Next add a set of pod filters if you are not riding in the wet stuff, if you are riding in the wet stuff, I would get a Pro Flow adapter for the airbox and do away with the lid. Get on Ebay and buy a timing plate from Chariot Performance and set your timing to +4. Get a coolhead from Noss Machine with some 21 or 22cc domes. This should be about $800 so you have $200 left. You will need to jet the hting of course but that is just a few bucks for some jets, don't buy a high dollar jet kit, they are a waste of money. Then you can buy reeds if you really want to but your money would be better spent getting your suspension setup. I would recomend getting your crank welded before it lets go and damages your motor, but if you are getting the second motor together quickly you could just weld that crank. You also will want some stiffer springs for the clutch assuming it is in good shape, you might want to do a shift star mod so it will shift better, and possibly a pancake bearing for the clutch so you don't weld the ball to the clutch pushrod, although if you use a good oil in the tranny it probably won't be a problem. By good oil I mean something like Klotz Flex Drive 30 ( part number KL506). Don't use ATF as those guys are the ones welding a ball if they don't have a pancake bearing. Kepp your Banshee well maintained with quality parts and supplies and you will be rewarded with a reliable bike, if you halfass things it will be a POS that is always breaking down and being towed back.

Gnarlys are for bottom end, Fattys are for all around riding and the powerband is very similar to T5s just at a little less RPMs, and the SSTs are their top end pipe. Banshees have a problem with the crank- it is just assembled with a press fit and over time the start spreading apart and eventually you will have a failure that will send shrapnel theoughout your motor causing extensive damamge. The more mods and/or power you have the quicker it will happen, but my brand new 89 model did it with nothing more than pipes on it after 1.25 years from when I bought it brand new. Therefore it is the first thing I do whenever I add another Banshee to the stable.

Use a GOOD oil at 40:1, Iuse Klotz R50, but Maxima, Amsoil and some others are Ok also.

ALWAYS wear a helmet, you never know what is going to happen, either around the corner, or what the other guy is doing. I have seen MANY people injured that were not riding hard because of something beyond their control. Nobody plans on crashing. As for your bike, check for bad shocks and then you will need to look for a damaged frame, look for bent tubes, paint starting to peel off from being flexed, or if you know how to do some cross measuring you can check to see if it is out of factory specs.

New chains will stretch SOME, it is just like breaking in a new top end, things have to wear into each other. I always have to adjust my DID o-ring chain after the first 1 or 2 rides and then it is usually good for a long time. As was said, buy a name brand o-ring chain with the highest tensile strength that you can afford and you should be good.

From your grasp of this whole thread, I would recomend loading the whole bike up and taking it to a reputable shop and tell them you need a new top end!!!!!!!!!!!!

You will need a thumb throttle assembly and a TORS elimination cable that will fit it. Prices will vary depending on where you buy them and if new or used.

There are probably shorted wires in the bike harness.

Did you clean and setup your carbs? If you did a TORS elimination, did you get the iidle screws installed properly? Did you grind enough off the carbs so the screws go in far enough?

You want the nitrous to be injected into the intake where there is high flow, there is not high flow inside the boost bottle. Go with your original plan of doing away with the boost bottle and injecting it into the intake boots through the crossover tube holes.

You have to make them, you get the bearings and sprockets at an industrial supply house and the shaft material from a steel supply house; use the Yellow Pages or the internet to find ones close to you. You will need to have splines or keyways machined into the shaft for the sprockets if you want to be able to replace the sprockets when they wear, or if you just want to build all new shafts when you need to replace the sprockets you can weld the sprockets onto the shaft. You will have to fab brackets to hold them. What are you trying to do? Without more specifics we can't help you.

DO NOT USE RTV, gasoline softens RTV and you will have air leaks in the future!!!!!!!!!!

Did you adjust the shift shaft eccentric when you put it together? It either has to be that or a bent shift fork, but I would think if it was a shift fork you would not have been able to get it beloww 4 when you were working on it either.

Actually they will fit MOST yamaha sports ATVs. They will not fit Blasters, 89-90 Banshees, or most of the 4X4 stuff.

To get the steering STEM bearing out, you remove the upper seal by prying it out and then you use a 30mm allen wrench to remove the retaining nut. Most guys end up making a tool out of a nut and bolt welded together and using a regular socket to turn it. Sometimes, if it is not too tight or corrroded, you can use a pair of 90 degree expanding snap ring pliers to loosen the nut, just squeeze the fingers into opposing corners of the nut. Also, make sure you don't lose the collar that the lower seal runs on, it slips on the stem after it goes through the bearing and before the washer goes on. If it is not there, your stem will move up and down when you put it back together.

The black wire(ground) from the lights should be connected to the black wire in the bike harness which ultimately does hook to the frame at a couple of points. All you have to do to see if the ZTORS is hooked up is look under the left side of the fuel tank next to the coil- if there is a little black box there that has 3 wires plugged into it. Unplug the connector and that will disconnect the TORS system. As for the green/yellow wire, it should not affect the headlights, but if the wire shorts to ground it will activate the rev limiter and the bike will run like crap.

My personal opinion is that a K&N is better for sand and a foam filter is probably better for dirt or mud. I have seen a video of a grain of sand working it's way through a foam filter. Also, K&Ns supposedly do a better job when they are dirty.

Parking brake switch won't shut it off, it will just limit the RPM and make it run like crap. Do you still have the TORS hooked up? If you do, unplug the little black box under the left side of the fuel tank next to the coil and see if that makes a difference. Also, check your wire harness for damaged or shorted wires,check your pickup coil gap and then you need to start testing the coil, stator and all of your switches. If they all check OK, then I would borow a CDI box from a friend and see if that is it.

The easiest and cheapest thing is to just run him off the track/trail.

Yes, the headlights need a ground, but it is not supposed to be connected to the keyy switch. The black wire at the lights should connect to the black wire in the bike harness. At this point, I would get a Banshee wiring diagram for your year and trace EVERY wire in your harness. Just to save some questions- the wires that went to the key switch need to be connected, they should be red/black and black. The black/white wire coming from the CDI box goes 2 places- the stop switch on the left handlebar where it should connect to ground when you shut the bike off, and the other place it goes is it ties into the TORS system which can be removed if you want. Make sure the TORS is unhooked by unplugging the little black box under the left side of the fuel tank next to the coil, it may be gone already. I would also do away with the park brake rev limiter by removing the green/yellow wire in the BIKE harness at the CDI plug- take it out of the CDI plug on the bike side, that way the wire coming out of the CDI box will be protected from shorting to ground which will engage the rev limiter. Make sure that you don't have any bare wires that can short to ground or broken wires.

Or go to Twister, last time I checked they were $350 plus the ride. I have never had a problem with a Twister crank.

What were you thinking putting a flywheel on without a key? You are just begging to screw something up. DO NOT RUN that thing until you get a key for it. It sounds like if the key is not the problem then you either are jetted very lean or have an air leak, do a leakdown test. This is a classic example of doing things half assed and causing more problems.

Remove your pipes and carbs and do a leakdown test. Then while the carbs are off, take them completely apart one at a time and clean everything, check the float setting and reassemble. You want to do them one at a time because the float bowls are different from the left to the right, you should probably verify that you have the correct float bowl on each carb, some one else will need to chime in which one goes where. When you put them back on, you will need to do a proper sync and full adjustment of the mixture and idle speed. Are you running stops on your reed cages? I had that problem when I put Boyesen petals on my stock cages that had been ported, when I put the stock stops back on the problem went away.

I am at Sandfest right now and they are circulating petitions to sign at all the events. We need to get EVERYBODY to help us out and sign this so that we can hold off the enviro nuts. So far we only have 1700 of the 5000 we need. This is just to get a temporary halt to the plan that will go into effect on August 1,2011. They will be closing ALL trails in the Oregon Dunes, you will only be able to ride in the open sand. It will close Banshee Hill and all the other tree climbs, etc. It will also make Dunefest suck so please sign the petitions and help us out.