bansheesandrider

Check ALL of your chain rollers including the one that goes around the swingarm pivot. They are notoriuos for wearing through and the chain cutting into the swingarm, replace it with a chain slider.

Have you cut the green/yellow wire out of the bike harness at the CDI plug? That is the only sure way to keep the park brake rev limiter from activating, it is a seperate system from the TORS system that is contained in the CDI box. When you cut the wire, cut it on the harness side of the plug and cut it tight to the connector so it can NOT short to ground as that is how the rev limiter is activated.

If your headlights exploded, then your voltage regulator is bad. Don't think there is a way to check them just replace it. When the wire shorted out it probably damaged the regulator.

The runout is actually at the outers, it just shows up at the middle because of the way the crank is supported, most likely. That is why it is worth it to let an expert true and weld it. When I watched Twister do my last crank, he checked the runout and knew right where to teak it to get it straight and had it done in no time at all. Or, you might have slightly tweaked the centers when you were pressing it apart.

PIPES AND AIR FILTER SHOULD ALWAYS BE THE FIRST MODS TO A BANSHEE

Sounds pretty steep to me. I usually figure that used parts are worth 50% of what new costs. Are they genuine Yamaha plastic that has not been painted?

I would not chrome your cases, cylinders, or head as it will make it more difficult for them to disperse heat. You could repolish them and seal them with Zoop's seal, but the sealer might also interfere with heat transfer. The best thing would be to PC them black.

Actually a stock clutch is great, it just needs some heavier springs put in it. I run a Toomey cluitch with 3 stock springs and it is indestructible. My stock clutch with 3 Toomey springs and 3 stock springs held up great and I carry it for a spare.

Both the Clarke and IMS tanks require you to modify the plastics. I know of no other oversize tanks, and I would not recomend cutom painting of the big tank as fumes seem to seep through the tank and will damage the paint. That is why you can't keep stickers on them. With a 5.5 or 5.6 gallon tank you will have almost 2 gallons more than stock. This should increase your range by about 40%.

The bottom line is you have a 25 psi difference in your top end and that is why it won't start. Did you PROPERLY break it in? You are going to need to pull your head and inspect your cylinders. I would say you should do a leak down test but from your desription you either won't know how or won't have a tester.

The 44 ft lbs is for the 87-88 4 bolt sprocket, an updated factory manual has a spec in the neighborhood of 22 ft lbs for the 6 bolt sprockets. The 4 bolt uses 10mm studs while the 6 bolt uses 8mm studs. If you are going to run a casesaver get the plastic one from TM Designworks, it is the best one on the market.

Change your spark plugs. They are a wear item on a 2 stroke and should be changed on a regular basis. You could have fouled one when the flywheel was loose from it not firing properly and not burning all the fuel.

You don't need the reed spacers, the boost bottle will just cause your intake boots to crack and I don't know if you will see that big of a difference from the VF3s over the Boyesens. Everything else sounds good, but as was mention you should spend some money on suspension AND also on some reliability issues- get your crank welded before it seperates and you have to spend $700-$800 just to get back to what you have now. Mine came apart when all I had done was pipes on it. You will also want heavier springs in the clutch and a shift star mod, maybe a billet impeller and a pancake bearing. Remember, it is far better to get the stuff done for reliability and rideability first and then you can buy more power later and not worry about when it is going to grenade or how out of control you are in the rough stuff.

You need to have the regulator bolted to the frame as that is how it gets it's ground and completes the regulator circuit. You need to connect the yellow wire coming out of the stator to the yellow wire going to each headlight and also connect the blue wire of the regulator to this also. Leave the green wire from the headlights un hooked because the stator does not make enough power to run low beams AND high beams at the same time. If you are running a tail light, you will need to splice the blue wire from it into the yellows also. If it continues to blow bulbs when wired like this, then you have a bad regulator and it needs to be replaced.

Using blue Loctite does NOT make it a hassle to take apart next time. I have found that it actually makes it come apart easier than if I don't use it, because we ride sand and the loctite keeps the corrosion from getting in the threads and rusting things up solid.

You can reuse the front washer if it is not cracked. I usually try to replace mine everytime I do it so that if I ever have to take it apart while on a riding trip I can reuse it then. As for the rears bars, I don't even bend them, I just put the nuts on with loctite and call it good.

Make sure the pins the calipers float on are not corroded up and the caliper can't move in and out when you apply the brakes. If this happens, the lever will be firmer than normal but the pads won't clamp down on the rotor good. Also the pads will drag when the brakes are released.

You need to jet it for the amount of air going through the engine. A small carb will limit the amount of air but you can still jet it correctly for the amount of air that is actually flowing. Do you still have stock reed cages? What kind of pipes? Take the reed cages and/or the pipes off and look at the ports, are they stock or are they ground on(ported)? Stock carbs are great for better throttle response and low end power. They will work just fine on motors that are stock stroke, and for a little gain they can be bored to 27.5mm. That way all the stock jets and parts still fit. Going to bigger carbs will reduce your throttle response and low end power and will give you more RPM and top end power, assuming you have the other mods to support a biiger set of carbs. Some people on here have had good luck with the OKO knock offs of Keihen carbs and some people have had problems with them, I say you get what you pay for. That being said, I would just bore out your stock carbs (mine cost $35 per carb to do) and then get it properly jetted. That way you won't need a new cable and you can still get parts at any Yamaha dealer (they will stock parts for stock carbs, but will have to special order parts for aftermarket carbs).

My factory Banshee manual looks nothing like that, the pictures are nice and clear and easy to see what they are talking about. Yours looks like it was photocopied poorly. I bought mine in 1990 for my 89 so maybe the newer ones are not as readable. I also have factory manuals for the Banshee, Blaster, and Warrior on CD Rom and they are clear also, no poor pictures in them.

Bullshit, if you know how to use a manual the factory one can't be beat. The only thing wrong with the factory manual is the price. It has drawings that show the routing of EVERY hose, cable and wire on the bike. It has excellent wiring diagrams. It gives you all the proper steps to trouble shoot the electrical system and has all the values for the stator, coil and every other component. If you have a factory manual, I would spend some time reading it and familarizing yourself with the layout. I have factory service manuals from Ford, GM, Chrysler, Yamaha, Honda, Caterpiller, Hyster, Detroit Diesel, Allison, Cummins, John Deere, Case IH,Bobcat and more that I don't remember and the Yamaha manual is a great one, Honda manuals are the ones that suck. Keep your Yamaha manual and don't worry about the Clymers. Everybody on here likes the Clymers because it costs half of what the factory one costs, but in my opinion you get what you pay for.

link did work, just loaded slow.

Check your shift shaft adjustment, you should do this anytime the clutch cover is off. Get a service manual and use the search function on here.

When it comes to chain and sprockets, you get what you pay for. I am not saying you have to buy th most expensive thing out there but you definetely should not buy the cheapest. I run DID x ring chain and good steel sprocket, You should always replace the sprockets when you replace the chain.

They have 700 or 800 cc that fire every other revolution because they are a four stroke. You have 350cc firing EVERY revolution because it is a 2 stroke. That is why when the 450 MX bikes came out they let them race against the 250cc 2 strokes. With pipes and good suspension you should be fine. If you are worried about it you could bump your timing and compression for a little more, without much more expense. You can modify the stock timing plate yourself and have the stock head cut for less than $100.

You definetely should have drained the tank when you switched oil. Some oils won't mix with other oils and they turn everything to a gooey mess. I would drain the tank and make sure there is no residue in there. Then completely tear apart your carbs one at a time and clean them very good, blow out ALL the passages and jets with compressed air. Reassemble, install, fill with the new mix, and then make sure yourcarbs are synced, the idle speed and mixture is set and do a plug chop to check your jetting.