bansheesandrider

I think they are 6mmX1.0 threads.

Are you sure about the parking brake rev limiter as all bikes made after 1997 had them here in the States. The rev limiter is built into the CDI box and the only external clue is a wire going to the park brake part of the clutch lever. But if you have no park brake, then it all might have been removed by the previous owner. And just to clarify things, the funky tops on the carbs are for the TORS system that has NOTHING to do with the rev limiter. It is a Throttle OverRide System that will shut off the motor completely(not limit the revs) if the throttle sticks.

Moose stators are made by Electrosport.

They are a direct bolt on on 1990 and newer spindles, if you have 1989 or older spindle, you will need to get the newer style spindles.

All blue Banshees started in 1999, 1998 models were available in blue and white. Yamaha put the brake lights on starting with all of the 2002 models in the USA. The original poster needs to figure out if his VIN has 3s or 8s in it in order to figure out what year it is. It could even be an assembled bike with a 03 motor in a 08 chassis.

You could do a leakdown test to verify your rings and seals and gaskets. As was asked, what prpblems are you having? As loco said this is a Banshee site and almost every problem that you could have has been discussed on here already.

I had this same problem with my 89 three years ago. It turned out to be the CDI box that I had put on from Rick's Electrics. The bike would not start cold without towing it but it would kickstart as long as it was warm, but after a long day at SandLake it would not even start by towing it when hot. I put a stock CDI back on it and it started right up. I had put the Rick's box on it when I was at St. Anthonys because that was all I could get when we were there, and it had less than 20 hours of ride time on it in 3 months.

Yea they last a long time and when they finally break(as ALL metal does when it is continually flexed back and forth) you will be sending pieces of metal into your cylinders and piston and head. Change them out ASAP to some kind of fiber reeds!

When mine came off I had to replace the idler gear, clutch basket,drive gear on crank and the water pump gear. My clip went between the gears and damaged them all, it was making a clicking noise. If your gear is in good shape, I would get a steel bushing from FAST, along with all new washers and snap ring and put it together making sure the snap ring groove on the shaft is in good shape so it will stay on. If the shaft is bad you will either have to weld it on or split the cases and replace the shaft. The latter is the proper way to do it.

And I have seen 3 stock bikes with pipes only grenade their cranks, mine did it when the bike was a year and a half old. A stock crank is very strong once it has been trued and welded. As long as you are running a stock stroke motor, you should not need the billet 2nd gear.

I have an 89 that I bought brand new off the dealer's floor and it has J arms as do 2 1990 models that I know of. 1990s came with the new style fromt brakes but still had J arms like the older bikes. I would go for something in the 97 to 01 models, they will have the lateset version of electrical stuff without having the big ugly brake light. If you want the brake light, then I would go for an 06 in the USA or whatever the latest year is where you are at. That way it will have the least amount of neglect and abuse.

sorry for the double post, computer locked up.

You are getting away with it because you run methanol, gasoline(including race gas) will attack RTV and cause it to soften and start leaking. I prefer Yamabond 4 but I have heard Permatex MotoSeal works well also.

89 AND 90 were 4 on 156 with 10 inch wheels stock, only a 10 inch wheel will fit over that big of a bolt pattern.

Cascade silencers are around $300 and go right on your Paul Turner pipes. Your initial post sounded like a kid that was proud of his "fast because it is loud" bike and all that does is get ATV riders stereotyped as troublemakers. My point is that if more people tried to make their bikes quiet, we would have more places to ride without having to fight land closures. As for going off road, that is what banshees are made for, the US models even have stickers on them that say not to ride on paved roads.

As for an A arm conversion, can you weld? And I don't mean bird shit welding, you need to be able to do excellent welds on thin material. The reason I ask is the only way to do the conversion without welding is to buy an A arm frame and put all your parts on it. If you can weld, then google "Banshee A arm conversion" and you should be able to find the weld in kit to modify your frame to accept A arms. Or contact Stellar Machine(they are a site sponsor) or Dave Moore for some custom J arms.

I imagine a bit of RTV around the o-ring for the water pipe would be a good idea on reassembly? DON'T RTV the O ring, it will make it hard to get the cover off and if you ever have to pull the cover away from home you won't be able to reuse the O ring. Just give it a good coat of grease and you will be good to go.

For starters, the lighting circuit and the ignition/CDI circuit are totally seperate in the stator, so the lights cant rob power from the ignition. However you might want to check all of your grounds are good and clean. If the additional load from the lights can't get a good ground they could keep the ignition from grounding properly. It's kind of like on a trailer the turn signals work OK by themselves, but when the taillights are on the lights do weird things because you don't have a good ground.

I am not high and mighty, I am a poor dirt farmer that works very hard for everything I have. I don't think everyone is trying to ruin things for me, I know that right now we have a MAJOR dune closure that we are fighting to stop because the people that live near the dunes don't like the loud bikes, both 2 and 4 stroke. I am not a liberal, I am VERY conservative. My expierence has been that it is the liberals that like the loud pipes. Because of all the people that think loud pipes are cool I had to buy Cascade silencers to get my bike down to 93 decibles so I can legally ride in the dunes that I have been going to for over 20 years. My original point was if this guy's bike is too loud then he needs to do something about it, whether it is repacking his silencers or buying some different ones that are quieter.

JUST WHAT WE NEED, ANOTHER DUMDASS WITH A LOUD BIKE GIVING US A BAD NAME. Here in the US we are fighting land closure because the people don't like our loud bikes riding near their homes even though the riding area was there before their home. It is not fair, but that is the way our government works. You might want to invest in a set of Cascade CSFX silencers, then your bike will be QUIET.

Use a torque wrench and blue Loctite on it. I had the same problem until I started doing that. Alot of guys will say get a round housing setup, but I prefer the stock setup.

I mounted mine under the seat so it sticks up in the hole where the coolant bottle was. I like having a key so that if you are away from the bike for a few minutes(taking a leak or running into a store) no one can ride off with it. Yes, I know that it can still be pushed or loaded in a truck, but it is work to push a quad in sand and people with a truck will get it if they want it. My old riding buddies used to think it was funny to play keep away with your bike when you jumped off the trail to releive yourself, also when we are at sandfest or other gatherings we can pull the key and they can't just get on it and kick it and go. My bike is an 89 and I have NEVER had a key switch problem, probably because the switch is mount in a fixed location and it is not flexing the wiring every time the bars are turned.

This is a 3 month old thread!!!!!!!!!!!!

TORS box has nothing to do with the rev limiter. The rev limiter is contained in the CDI box, and the TORS has it's own box, the rev limiter will make the bike run like crap while the TORS will usually just make the bike not run at all. The only thing in common between the TORS and the rev limiter is that they both connect to the black chassis ground wire.

CUT the green/yellow wire in the bike harness at the plug for the CDI box- make sure you cut it on the bike harness side of the plug as close as possible to the plug. This will keep the wire from shorting to ground and activating the rev limiter.