bansheesandrider

They say to remove the tranny and wash the cases in soapy water so you get ALL the oil out of it so the Yamabond 4 will stick to the metal and seal it up properly, so you don't have an air leak and melt pistons. If your crank is not welded, I would ABSOLUTELY do that, make sure ALL the bearings are smooth, make sure the shift forks are not wore or blue. Those are the things to worry about that the cases need to be split for. The other stuff that was mentioned can be dealt with later without splitting the cases.

Pro Design heads use different studs than the stock head, most of the other heads use stock studs. If you do need to use heat to get them out don't use very much, you don't want to warp anything. I would use a small propane torch.

The proposed plan will affect the ENTIRE Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area, which includes Florence, Winchester Bay, and the Coos Bay/ North Bend riding areas. I have heard it may even include Sand Lake also. At SandFest over the 4th of July in North Bend they were really pushing everyone to sign their petitions. Everyone needs to help with this fight because when they get done with one area they will move on to the next, and that might be where you ride!

So much for asking what we think he should do! You might as well not bother with the race gas because with 18 degrees timing and 17cc domes, you will be pulling it apart right away to put a new crank, pistons, and domes in it because when that crank lets go from all the cylinder pressure it is going to send shrapnel throughout the entire motor.

X2, that is why I went with the Vector after Trail Tech could not get the Vapor to work correctly on my 1989. I don't even need a tach to set the idle, I just adjust so the bike does not die and is somewhat smooth. Also, most race cars rotate their gauges so that the normal condition has the needle pointed straight up, or in the case of the tach it is either the shift point or max RPM that will be straight up, depending on the kind of rascing.

It is not just Florence included in this, it is ALSO Winchester Bay and Coos Bay/North Bend. They are closing Banshee Hill because it is an unauthorized trail and every other trail in the dunes. We will only be able to ride the open sand.

When I tried to put a Vapor on mine, it would continuosly reset EVEN WITH RESISTOR PLUGS. I actually took my bike to Trail Tech twice and had them check it out, they replaced EVERYTHING and I still had the same problem. In between the 2 trips I rode it in the dunes and decided that the tach function was to hard to use while riding the dunes, so when I went back the second time, they ended up giving me a Vector(they let me keep the Vapor) so I ended up with 2 for the price of 1. When I get time I was going to see if the Vapor will work on the wife's bike. The Vector works fine with either resistor or nonresistor plugs.

GET YOUR CRANK WELDED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My crank let go with nothing more than a set of pipes on it. The more power you make, the more likely your crank will let go. I would stay with 21 or 22cc domes if you want to stay with pump gas. The ProDesign head is a pain to install because you have to change the studs. If I were you, I would send the whole thing back and order a Noss head with 22cc domes and be good to go.

You should definetely run the resistor plug, but if you don't have a tach it doesn't really matter.

Hook the wire from the TrailTech into the yellow wire coming out of the stator, this is your headlight wire and you can splice into it wherever it is convienent as long as it is before the headlight switch so it has power all the time.

Both of those plugs are the late square style, the difference is because one is OEM and one is aftermarket. If it plugs together, it will work. The early round style is round and will not plug into anything but the round connector.

How was the PB Rev Limiter eliminated? Is it possible the wire is still there and shorted to ground?

Some aftermarket caliper rebuild kits include them.

Are your fuel lines soft and flexible or are they hard and nonflexable? if the lines are soft, you can use zip ties to clamp them on, or go to the auto parts store and get the smallest clamps they have. If the lines are hard, go to a bike shop and get some new fuel lines. I have nver seen fuel lines and or hose clamps included in ANY kind of kit, there are just to many variables involved.

ALL high output stators are high output on the lighting side only, there is no high output on the ignition side. I would find a good used factory stator, if you need high output go to Electrosport for one.

As I said in your other thread, I am local to you. I use Twister Crankshafts for my crank and machine work and I do ALL the wrenching myself. I have not had a set of cylinders ported in years so I don't have a recomendation for that.Twister can do your porting, but I know nothing about it. Twister is out towards Cascade but not quite as far. I buy some parts from Cascade, but most of the OEM parts I need, I get from RideNow Powersports.com or CheapCycleParts.com.Redline Performance has been mentioned, they are down in Sweet Home, I believe.

Awesome bling, chrome and seat covers, but don't go to them for repairs or motor work.

I am from North Plains, but haven't been riding much do to work. Iwas told you can get non ethanol gas from Ag West Supply, but you have to buy it in 55 gallon drums, I haven't verified this.

No, only the crankshaft seals have the rib on them. They put the rib on the crank seals to keep the pressure in the bottom end from pushing them out of the case. You can pull the seal out of the case and drive a new one in just like doing the shift shaft or kickstarter seals or a tranny or pinion seal on your car.

X2, BEST tranny oil ever. Bike shifts better, it lubes everything better, I have NEVER had a tranny failure or a clutch ball weld with this stuff in the 6 Banshees and 2 Blasters that I maintain in the 18+ years I have been using it.

The countershaft seal CAN be replaced without splitting the cases. Also, there is a collar that goes on the shaft for the seal to ride on, is it there?

I am in Oregon and I bought a frame from a guy back east, Maine I think. I had a cop buddy run the VIN before I bought it, but you should be able to go to the local police or DMV with the numder and they should be able to tell you. I then went to DMV to find out what I had to do to get a title. I needed a bill of sale from the seller, he sent me one that was notarized, so that helped. But the way he worded it, it said he sold me a bike not a frame. So I had to put all my spare parts on it( A arms, spindles, wheels, spare cases, plastics, everything) and take it in for a VIN inspection, fill out all kinds of paperwork( I made copies of EVERYTHING), sent it all to the head office with a check, and about a month later I got my title in the mail. This is the process in Oregon, your state may vary.

There is a boss on the clutch cover that keeps the shaft from moving when the cover is on the motor. It is very common for the hook and spring on the shift shaft to get loose and sloppy. If you need to buy a shift shaft, get a modded one from FAST. It is about the same money as a stocker and it will improve your shifting. ALSO, while you are in there check your kick idler gear for play on the tranny shaft, if it wobbles or wiggles at all it is time for a new bushing in it, also from FAST. If the gear wobbles, it can flip the snap ring off the shaft and then you have metal pieces running through your gears and tearing things up. I had to replace my idler gear, clutch basket, crank gear, and water pump gear when mine did it at the dunes, not to mention going to 3 different shops to get all the pieces.

There are way to many variables for this to be valid and relevant!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good question, I assumed he was talking about stockers.