bansheesandrider

How are you going to run it? The Warn winch is 12VDC. Banshees are AC power without a battery. You would have to do a DC conversion, and install a battery with box or mount. And a Banshee stator probably won't generate enough power to run the winch. Where are you riding? Anywhere that would require a winch is not the place to be riding a Banshee. If you need a winch at your ride spot, you should probably get a 4 wheel drive quad instead.

Have you fired this up and seated the rings yet? Did you lube the piston and rings when you were putting it together? Did it have a factory style head gasket when you took it apart? What were the base gaskets-stock thickness or something different? I have never been fond of the Cometic stuff, if I am building a stock type motor with just a cleanup bore/hone I prefer to run genuine Yamaha gaskets. Is there more to this build you are not telling us-high compression head or big bore or stroker or did it have some other specialty piston that raise compression? Was it carboned up when you took it apart- if it had enough piston slap to be noticeable, I wouldn't think it would make the kind of compression that it had if everything was normal. Did they hone the cylinders to the new pistons or was it BORED to the new pistons? What is the actual bore size now? Unless they bored it way out you shouldn't need the 68mm gasket set, you should have stayed with the same as what you had before or OEM gaskets.

I have a Banshee set up for sea level dunes riding- FMF Fattys and Toomey 2:1 filter, otherwise all stock. It has a 290 main and a 27.5 pilot.

JP Racing was an Oregon based aftermarket manufacturer of suspension parts for ATVs. They went bankrupt once and were on the verge of doing it again when Lonestar bought them out. I had a JP Racing swingarm on my Banshee that was continuously cracking. I also had upper D arms on the front. They were OK, except the ball joint angle wasn't right to work with factory or other aftermarket lower arms.

The TORS system has nothing to do with the park brake rev limiter, it is built into the CDI box. Go to the harness connector for the CDI box, on the bike side of the connector cut the green/yellow striped wire and tape the ends so they CAN'T GROUND. That will do away with the park brake rev limiter.

Does it still have the park brake setup on it? If it does, back out the PB screw adjuster, then readjust the park brake after you have bled it .

Bad voltage regulator causing the bulbs to blow.

You have adjusted the push rod so that the piston is covering the port in the master cylinder that lets fluid in from the reservoir.

Also make sure the O rings on the outside of the seat, that seal the seat to the carb body, are good. I chased this issue for a while until I figured that out.

A bottom half only case is worthless because they are supposed to be matched sets- sometimes you can get away with mix and match and sometimes you can't. A stock, unmodified head is worth 25-50 bucks and maybe you could get 100 for one cut and rechambered. That being said, if it is junk just laying around, I would trade for the Works- they are way better than the stockers, and you can still get them serviced or rebuilt by an independent rebuilder. Put them on and ride it, if you are not happy, sell them and buy something better.

You probably damaged the stator or CDI box when the wires shorted out after the insulation burned off.

Does this guy think you get 21cc's more displacement by putting on a coolhead with 21cc domes? Or are we being trolled here?

#1 is self explanatory. #2- you will burn twice the alcohol. #3- not sure, but you have to have good compatible oil for your premix. #4- You have to drain and purge the alcohol from the bike before putting it away. #5- Alcohol likes to absorb water when it sits around.

15 minutes with that jetting could have hurt the engine. When I had 2 bikes with FMFs, the jetting was 280 or 290 main, 27.5 pilot, clip in the middle of the stock needle. when jetting, you should always start rich and work towards lean- start with a big number and go smaller 1 size at a time.

I think I bought an aftermarket unit that was spec'd for a late 80's to early 90's YZ dirt bike. My Banshee is an 89.

Take it to a reputable shop that will bore it AND supply the correct size pistons with the clearances already set.

OK, the EARLIER ones were black. I think silver or natural came in the last 2-3 years on the non special or limited edition bikes.

All the older bikes have black master cylinders.

Choke tube between carbs?

No, that's 740 foot pounds- your 2 feet times the 370 pounds a Banshee weighs!

When this happened to me, I took a 1/4 inch bolt and ground the end to a round nose and removed the threads for abot 3/8 inch. Drill and tap the carb for 1/4 inch and you are good to go. Use the idle screw from the kit as a pattern.

NO, it doesn't!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Does it have the correct screws going through the springs? Are the springs being compressed to much?

All you HAVE to do is unplug the control box, that shuts down the TORS system.