bansheesandrider

Short answer is NO. I know of at least 3 different threads on Banshee axles- stock, the oversize metric thread that DuraBlue uses, and the Lonestar Axcaliber axle uses an SAE thread, I believe it is 7/8-??. I don't know what the oversized, gun drilled drag axles like JJ&A use.

I know the change was made on the 97 models- my wife's 96 that we bought brand new did not have it and the 97 that we have now did have it. We bought the 97 from the original owner who is a personal friend so I know the history of the bike. As I said before, the difference between 01 and 02 is they added brake lights, so make sure you are looking at the right thing in the diagram. And as I also said before, the park brake rev limiter wire goes into the clutch perch , not the brake lever.

You CAN"T by seperate case halves from Yamaha or Mattoon!!!!!!!!!!!! The reason being is that the holes for the crank and tranny bearings are machined to final dimension with the cases bolted together. Thus due to minor variances in halves, that are negated by being machined as a set, you should not mix and match case halves. Some guys on here have done it, with mixed results. It worked for some, others had problems. Yamaha made the Banshee for 20 years and I do know this can lead to alot of wear on their manufacturing machines and variances in machine work that wont show up in a case set, but would show up in mismatched case halves. The only place you can buy seperate case halves is from private sellers or used parts dealers. OR if you have cases that split apart sideways instead of up and down, like a Blaster or 250R, you can buy seperate case parts. I know Honda does sell cases seperately.

All Banshees 1997 and newer came with park Brake rev limiter, the switch is built into the clutch lever perch. You are probably thinking of the switches for the brake light that came on the 02 and newer bikes. Even if you do not have a switch for the rev limiter, if the wire is not removed the way I previously described, the wire can short to ground and activate the rev limiter. If the green/yellow wire has continuity to ground(even if the switch gets wet) the CDI box goes into rev limiter mode and it will run as you described.

When you went to the single carb, did you unplug the TORS box under the left side of the fuel tank next to the coil? If you don't have the carb switches and open the thumd throttle it will cut out. AND while you are eliminating things, get rid of the park brake rev limiter also. Do this by cutting the green/yellow wire in the bike harness at the CDI box plug, Cut it on the bike side of the connector, not on the box side- this will keep the wire from the box shorting to ground and activating the rev limiter.

You are not supposed to mix and match case halves!!!!!!!!!! You either need to get the bottom half that goes with the top you bought, or you will need to just use the top that you bought as a pattern to grind your top to fit the cylinders.

Every aftermarket slider I have seen needs to have the metal ring for the stock slider/roller removed from the swingarm.

If it is an Oregon or Washington bike it should have a title. Tell him to file for a lost title with DMV before you buy it. There are alot of stolen Banshees for sale without a title. You definetely need to take the VIN to DMV or your local cop shop and make sure it is not stolen before you buy it.It won't matter if it is behind on registration, ever since Oregon went to having the Parks Department administer ATV reg., it is good for 24 months from purchase.

T6s are OK for a stock motor. If you are going to port your motor, you should go with T5s, Shearers,CPIs, or R2s, depending on your riding style.

Personally, I think if you are comparing stock J arms to stock A arms, the Js are stronger. The 2 styles bend differently- on the A arms, the flat plate that attaches the ball joint to the tube will bend easily; the J arms will bend the tube because they are built differently. I know if I found a good deal on a bike, I wouldnot let the fact that it had J arms stop me from buying it. Odds are you are going to become obsessed with your Banshee and will be doing upgrades to it so you can eventually upgrade the arms as needs be. I do know that I had to crash really hard to bend my stock J arm, and my wife was going less than 10 MPH when she bent her stock A arm. I have never bent a J arm just riding and jumping, only by crashing. And I used to weigh 250+ when I had stock J arms.

Loys of sandpaper and a power sander and ALOT of elbow grease!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you can find them on there, Tusk is Rocky Mt.'s house brand. So in theory, the only place you can find them is at Rocky Mt. or one of their authorized dealers.

I have an 89. After bending 1 J arm and replacing it with a stocker, I decided to upgrade to a set of LSR upper D arms and lower A arms. I did this when I did a complete frame up build with new plastics, seat , chrome and polished billet, etc. The first trip out after the makeover, I stood it up on the back end, came off the seat and the bike continued on. After it went aways it flopped over sideways. When I got it back on its wheels, my left wheel had a bunch of negative camber. I finally figured out why, the upper and lower control arm mounts had been tweaked sideways relative to each other. But this was a result of having arms that were much stronger than stock and finding the next weak point in the chain. All that being said, my wife bent her A arm in the same manner.

There should not be that big of a price difference between the 28 PWKs and the 35 PWKs so if you are going to go with the 28s, just get the 35s now. Some guys have had good luck with the OKOs and other guys have had problems with them. They are a cheap knockoff of the Keihin carbs from China or Taiwan.

If you use a torque wrench to tighten ALL the nuts and bolts to the factory spec you should not have any problems. The only time mine loosened up was when I did not use a torque wrench.

I tried a Vapor on my 89 with resistor plugs and even Trail Tech could not get it to work, I took it to them twice. But they gave me a Vector model( I kept the Vapor) and it works awesome, it is the same thing as a Vapor but does not have the tach function. It has all the speedo/odometer, temp., and clock functions. So, I know what the ambient and coolant temps are, how far I have rode and how many hours I am putting on it.

If you already have the 2s, I would just buy new petals for them and save your money.

Sorry, I was going off what you had in the second post. Either way, 16 or 17cc is to much. On an all around bike you want your compression to be right around 180 psi. Even with the port job, I would stay with a 28mm carb, I would not go with bigger carbs until you start increasing displacement significantly- like a stroker motor and/or a substantially bigger bore. Bigger carbs will give you more high rev power at the expense of low speed torque, thus making it harder to climb hills or start out. But, they are great for a drag bike.

Why would you switch to a 9 plug? The only reason to run a 9 plug is if you ar running on alky. Bikes running on gasoline, whether it is pump gas or race gas should run an 8 plug. Yes, keep your mix at 40:1. If you are only at 1300 feet, I think the 16cc domes are excessive, they will kill your topend overrev and you will be expierencing detonation. If you truly want more power, you need to get it ported. AND until you get it ported, there is ABSOLUTLY NO NEED for carbs bigger than 28mm.

When I bent the second one, I upgraded to Lonestar D arms and their lower A arms and have not had a problem since. That was back in the early 1990s and there was not much else available then.

Only 1989 and older bikes have the bigger brakes. 1990 models have J arms and the late style smaller brakes. J arms are lighter, but they also bend easier andthey wear out bushings quicker. I have an 89 and 2 97s and also have had a 96. I bent both upper J arms in seperate incidents on the 89, we bent one arm on the 96( wife crashed). The stock plastic bushings wore out within a year of buying it brand new, I have never put bushings in the A arm bikes. The brass bushings I got from Toomey( only ones available at the time) hold up VERY well.

If they have an oil control ring then they are for a 4 stroke. 2 strokes do not use oil control rings!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes, I think the change was made in the mid to late 90s, not exactly sure when they made the switch. I do know that the early lens was made of glass and the late ones are plastic as I have seen several late ones that are melted from having the lights on with covers over them. My 89 has glass lenses and I have never had a problem with melting if they get left on accidentally with the covers on them.

Depends on the year. Early lights they just pop off, as there is a metal ring that holds the lens in. Late lights you have to cut them off as they are part of what holds the lens in.

On the cases, I prefer Yamabond 4. On my gaskets I always use OEM gaskets and put them on dry. I have never had a problem with leaks doing it this way. As was mentioned, it is more important to have good clean, smooth, flat sufaces. By installing the gaskets dry, you stand a chance of reusing it if you have to pull something on the trail.