bansheesandrider

Where is it coming from? If it is coming from the clutch cover area, you probably had the clip come off the kick idler gear and get ran through the primary drive gears. Pull the clutch cover and see if the clip is missing, if it is pull the clutch basket and inspect EVERY tooth on the basket and crank gears for damage.

My first crank let go with a bone stock motor that had a set of pipes on it. Every bike I have had since then gets the crank welded before I do anything else to it. It is cheap insurance, and that way you don't damage any of the go fast goodies that you have spent good money on. I firmly believe that anything high performance should be built reliable BEFORE it is built fast.

Some people just weren't meant to br Banshee riders, they would prefer to ride an inferior machine.

Maier makes a set of fenders that bolt onto their racing front fender so you can retain the OEM look.

I would hook it to the lighting circuit first- if it works, great and if you have problems then you can try powering it from a battery.

The Cascade billet clutch insert used to come with an O ring on the back side to seal it to the main clutch cover. Then you could drill a hole in the center to access thr clutch adjuster screw in the center of the pressure plate.

If I had tickets to the 500, I'd be calling in sick!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I run K&Ns in the sand because I have seen a video of sand grains actually making their way through the pores of a foam filter. I use an Outerwears and have NEVER had dirt in my carbs. I also use a K&N in my pickup and never have dirt in the intake tubes. Just make sure you mount them so they don't rub and when you clean them don't blast them with high pressure water of air. Use a low flow stream of water, just enough to rinse out the cleaner and dirt and then just set it somewhere warm until it is dry.

I prefer to use a torque wrench on all my engine fasteners. Never had anything thattorqued properly come loose nor have I stripped or broken any expensive parts(crank). If you get the one that goes in the holes it will also work to hold the clutch hub.

Things I would spend money on: FIRST and most important, a trued and welded crank. If your crank lets go you are going to be buying replacement parts for things you already spent money on. Second, mod your timing plate, you can do this for free. Third,get a billet impeller. Fourth,make sure your clutch basket is not loose, if it is and it is stock get a billet one, if it is already billet get some new cushions. Fifth, make sure the bushing on the kick idler gear is not sloppy, if it is sloppy it will knock the clip off sending it through the primary gears and causing more damage, the solution is a bushing from FAST. Sixth is shift modifications- modded star, modded shift shaft, and check out Mull Engineering's shift mods. Seventh, is a pancake bearing for the clutch, especially if you are running ATF in the gearbox. The guys running ATF are welding the clutch ball to the pushrod, I run Klotz Flex Drive 30 in mine and have never had this problem, however I will be installing pancake bearings in all of mine when they are apart next time. Other things to think about- get a service manual, TORS elimination kit, don't just spend money on your motor spend some on shocks, swingarms, A arms, lighting if you night ride, ergonomics, etc. You should always make your bike reliable BEFORE you make it fast as it can travel farther in a half hour than you can walk ALL day.

If you buy a used one, send it to somebody that knows what they are doing and have it inspected and then trued and welded. If yours is rebuildable, I would do that first before buying another time bomb. In my opinion, an unwelded used crank is just another one getting ready to come apart. If you lose another crank, you will be buying pistons again along with a head or domes and possibly even cylinders or cases. My point is to not halfass it and build it right the first time.

My expierence with Boyesen reeds is that when you flip them over they will crack and break off very quickly. I did it once and they broke on the second day of riding after I did it. I would go back in and change them back to their original position. Good luck.

200 mains should be extremely lean based on what you told us. You should have at least a 290 with FMFs. My wife's bike with Fattys, a Toomey 2:1 air filter with a K&N element is running a 300 main and a 27.5 pilot and it does not have an air leak. With the mods you have, you might need a bigger main, but the pilot should be the same. BR8ES plugs are the correct spark plug for any Banshee running on gasoline without nitrous.

The general rule is smaller diameter or longer length gives you more torque or low end power and bigger diameter or shorter length gives you more high end power. Shorter silencers will make your bike louder and we don't need more people bitching about loud ATVs and closing riding areas.

Yes I was running resistor plugs. I actually bought mine off of Ebay. Trail Tech is about 45 mins from my house. Ask yourself if you really need/want a tach, I found that it is very difficult to read the tach when you are trying to watch the terrain in front of you. That was why I was agreeable(wanted, I actually suggested trading the Vapor for a Vector but they just gave it to me) to go with the Vector over the Vapor, they are the same thing except the Vector has none of the RPM functions. This was over 4 years ago, they may have figured out the problem and/or might not be as willing to help you out as much. My point has always been that I had a problem and they went the extra mile to make sure I was happy with their product

I am the guy that took his bike to Trail Tech, and you are half right. I took the bike up there twice and they could not get the Vapor to work correctly. They tried 2 different head units and also gave me an extra set of sensors to try. I had the engineer/designer of the Vapor working on it along with 2 service techs. In between the 2 times the bike was there, I decided that I did not need a tachometer(that was what I was having problems with). So on the second visit, they said they would GIVE me a Vector unit(same thing except no tach) and I could keep the Vapor unit. In addition, they gave me one of their terminal and crimper kits for my trouble. The Vector unit has worked flawlessly for 4+ years. Trail Tech went the extra mile to help me and I have no complaints. No, they did not give me my money back, because I did not ask them to. Most people seem to have no problems as long as they use a resistor plug. When I get time, I am going to try the Vapor on the wife's bike and see if it works on it. I picked up power on the yellow wire coming from the stator that supplies the headlight switch and voltage regulator and the Vector has performed flawlessly hooked up this way.

Show me a "fast" bike with a boost bottle, and I will show you a faster one that doesn't have one!!!!!!!!!!! Almost everybody on here is in agreement that boost bottles do not increase your power or rideability and they cause cracked/torn intake boots which leads to air leaks and melted pistons.

Just run the regular black Motion Pro cables. I have never had a problem with them.

When they first came out, they had problems with dirt getting in them and making them stick. They may have updated them so it does not happen anymore. The guys that tried them when they first came out had enough problems with them that I stayed away from them. But things may have changed so I really can't say.

T3s will fit on an A arm bike, but they rub on the tie rods and/or you have to dimple them to clear the tie rods. T4s suck in stock form so bad that Toomey did a buy back program when the T5s came out. I've never seen a set of cut T4s so I don't know how they run.

What shine? Odds are, if they are painted black there is nothing under the paint but bare metal. It used to be the only way you could buy Toomey pipes was bare metal and you had to get them chromed locally. Then Toomey started chroming them themselves and selling them for about $200 more than the bare ones. So if yours are painted black, they are probably bare underneath, or the chrome went to shit and somebody covered it with paint.

Make sure you replace the gears on the crank- it looks like shrapnel ran through there and if it did, it is going to knock when you get it running.

Some guys say you can cure the powder with a heat lamp and it won't melt the plastic bearing int the ball joint. But if the powder is not hot enough, it won't cure properly and won't stick. If it is cured in an oven, it will melt the plastic bearing in the balll joint. This will make the entire A or J arm useless as nothing(not the plastic bearing or the ball joint itself) is replaceable in the stock arms. If you want to powder coat your arms, you need to get aftermarket arms with replaceable ball joints so they can be removed during the powder process. You can however have the stock arms chrome plated and it won't hurt the ball joint. But if you are spending the money for chrome, I would do it to new arms so you get maximum life from the chrome( the ball joints won't be loose 6 months after you do the chrome). You can buy aftermarket arms for way less money than the stockers. So your choices are either paint or chrome the ones you have or buy aftermarket ones and then you can powdercoat or chrome the new ones.

Fullbores look like a facelift that is falling apart. OEM is the best fitting and best looking. The fit of Maier is hit and miss, my wife's pink tank and radiator covers look OK after quite a bit of work with a heat gun and penty of pushing and shoving while tightening the bolts.

Titles are NOT ALWAYS easy to get. It depends on your state and the reason there is no title. Sometimes you have to go back through several previous owners to the last titled owner and get a new release from them. Or it may be stolen and will get confiscated when you try to title it. Some states don't issue titles. I would definetely want a title as some insurance companies require it and it proves that you own the bike, not someone else.