bansheesandrider

How about a Yamaha dealer? They sell parts for Banshees!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gasoline attacks silicone RTV, so eventually it will deteriate and come out. That is another redneck fix!!!!!!!!

There are only 2 CDI boxes you should be using on a Banshee- genuine Yamaha and Dyna FS. Enough said!!!!

ALL the Banshees and Blasters I have had were welded from the factory, as were the extra knuckles I have had. If your knuckles are not welded, my guess would be someone has been mixing and matching some steering arms and knuckles!

X2, you should not use RTV to seal your cases as the fuel will attack it and eventually you will have an air leak. I use Yamabond 4, but you can use sealers by Threebond, permatex, or even Hondabond, which I think is the same as Yamabond but in a Honda package.

Did you zero your meter properly? Alot of DMMs will have .1-.4 ohms resistance in the leads/meter, so you will need to subtract that from your readings.

There are lots of good pipes depending on your riding style/location. But, if you are going to mod your motor, stay away from the T6s, go with the T5s if you want Toomeys. We have the Fattys on the wife's bike with a 2:1 aireaner and cut head and it works great for her, good bottom end, decent topend.

Who is doing your crank work? A mismatched set of cases should not make your crank seperate if it was welded, although it could cause other crank problems depending on how the mismatch plays out.The damage definetly looks like something ran through it. Have your crank rebuilt and trued/welded by a reputable builder, bore your cylinders, put it together correctly with quality parts, do a leak test, break it in properly and you should be good. OR, buy a set of billet cases, a 4mil crank and some new cylinders and go for broke!

The oil in the tranny is common with the clutch, you fill the tranny by putting it in through the clutch cover. With the clutch cover off look at your cases along the bottom either behind or beside the clutch basket, those holes let the oil transfer between the clutch area and the tranny. Also, when you check the tranny oil, the dipstick actually goes into the clutch area. Your leak has to be either the O ring or water pump seal as either will let it leak into the clutch area.

As for O rings there are 2, maybe 3 different sets that I know of. Trinity, which you would know if thats what your head was because they put their name and/or"Stage IV" all over their junk. Noss and Chariot heads take the same O rings and I am not positive but I think Pro Design is the same also. So if you get a set of Orings from a sponsor that fit Noss, Chariot, Pro Design you should be set. You should also check your pressure cap to see why it is not relieving pressure before the hose pops.

I agree that $75 to sync carbs is expensive. But, being a professional mechanic for the last 25 years I know where it comes from. Most shops charge a 1 hour minimum because of all the expeses they have- there is prbably a service writer that gets a commision on every work order that he writes, there is a secretary/cashier that closes the work order and collects your money that is making an hourly wage, there are other expenses like rent, power, water, heat, insurance, the mechanics wages, shop equipment and supplies, disposal of hazardous waste(solvent, batteries,oil, and old fuel) and all kinds of other hidden expenses that they have to pay out of the shop rate. The one thing I don't like is when I started out the shop rate was $25-30 an hour and the mechanic was geting $12.50-15 an hour. Now the shop rate is $75 or more an hour and the mechanic is getting $25-30 if he is lucky(depending on what industry it is).

FYI, the lighting windings and the ignition windings are 2 seperate circuits. So if the headlight circuit dies you will still have ignition. I would check the wire harness to see if it is burnt.

DO NOT BUY ANYTHING FROM TRINITY!!!!!! Go with our other site sponsors. T5s work great and will accomadate future upgrades as well. Bump your timing, increase your compression by either milling the stock head or getting a coolhead and jet it properly. Then before you do ANYTHING ELSE weld the crank!

If you just leave it on there, you will eventually be redoing your top end because of it. It will sit there wiggling back and forth as you ride and eventually it will crack your intake boots causing an air leak and a topend meltdown!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I moved mine to the rear under the seat. It sticks up through the hole that the coolant bottle cap came through. I built a custom bracket coming off the old airbox mounts. The way it is made, I can reach under the seat from the side and turn it on or off, If I want to actually take the key out of the switch I have to pull the seat off.

I am just saying that somebody( not neccassarily you) either overtightened it and stripped it or under tightened it so it came loose and damaged the threads.

The only reason to do it that way is so you can just plug a switch back in later!!!!!!!!!!!

Because the TZ bearing will not handle the side loads that helical gears put on it. They will handle far greater radial loads than any other Banshee crank bearing though!

Yes it is common for people that don't use a torque wrench. Every fastener on a Banshee has a torque spec. If you use a torque wrench instead of an impact wrench, along with a little Loctite, you won't have a problem with fasteners stripping or coming loose.

The B/W and B/R wires are on the switch side of the connector. On the bike side of the connector they are Black and Red/Black!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The main black runs the length of the harness/bike. As long as the control box is unplugged, you should have spark regardless of what you did with the rest of the plugs UNLESS you cut them off and twisted the wires together. DO NOT twist any TORS wires together. The only wire you should ever twist together when removing something on a Banshee is the key switch wires.

The ONLY thing you have to do to disable the TORS( Thor is the Norse god with a hammer) system is unplug the control box uner the left side of the fuel tank next to the coil. If you want to do a really nice job, you can remove your harness and unwrap it. Then you can cut out all the wires for the TORS.The wire colors are black/yellow, yellow/black, black/white and plain black. But the main black wire needs to stay, just cut the black coming from the plug to the splice to the main black. When everything is cut out, wrap it back up nicely and you should be good.You should not have any wire twisted together in the TORS system.

Your main jet should be somewhere between 260-320, probaly a 27.5 pilot. If you keep riding it the way it is you will be doing that topend again.

As was said, you can remove the terminal and reuse the connector. Supposedly the connectors were available from Toyota( same as late 80s pickup), but I tried that and they are No Longer Available. I just receive a new street bike catalog from Dennis Kirk and there was a whole page of connectors in there. I know the connectors for the TORS or headlights were shown, but I have not taken the catalog out to the bike to see if any others match up, no applications just have to match what you have to the picture. JustATV.com had a listing of connectors but I can't get the webpage to come up. Good luck.

It looks to me like they are the original 603 part number Boyesen reeds on a set of stock cages. Boyesen later changed their design and the part number to 645.