bansheesandrider

I ride sand exclusively( took my Banshee to Brown's Camp 3 times twenty one years ago). I have been running a Toomey 2:1 filter with the K&N element and an Outerwear for over 20 years and have never had a problem with water or dirt. If you are really worried about it, get a Pro Flow plate and an Outerwear for your filter and do away with the lid on the box. But, your still goona have to fight the box when you work on your carbs.

Are you sure it is not premix running out of the carb overflow hoses and the gasoline is evaporating, leaving the oil behind?

DON'T EVER BUY ANYTHING FROM RICCKT STATOR OR RM STATOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They sell nothing but crap! When it comes to stators,flywheels, CDI boxes, coils and other electronics, it is hard to beat OEM.

Yes, if it is overfilling the float bowl and ruuning out the vent/overflow. THAT WAS THE POINT OF MY PREVIOUS POST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Do you have access to a dyno and are you going to take the time to map out a custom curve on a dyno with a computer and software to do it? If the answer is no, then buy a OEM Yamaha CDI box. Most people on here would say go with a Nology coil, but either OEM, Nology or Dyna will be fine.

Later Banshees are supposed to run an "R" plug per the owners manual. This is peobably due to the non resistor plug boots. I run "R" plugs so my Trail Tech will work with no problems.

Are you sure the problem is not your crank guy? Could the washer be getting damaged when the crank is being assembled and welded? Are the cases a matched set or are they 2 halves from different engines, are you absolutely sure someone else did not mix and match before you got them? Just throwing things out there. In the true sense of the word, your stator can't cause detonation, but it can cause other ignition misfires that would mimick detonation.

My crank seperated with nothing more done to the motor than a set of pipes. I would not add ANY power to the motor without welding the crank, it is the first thing I do to a new bike when I tear it down.

On my bikes, riding in sand, the DID chains hold up far better than the RK stuff does.

A 2 stroke crankcase sees both vacumn and pressure so it is OK, that and being able to see the bubbles is why we use pressure.

220 is definitely LEAN, you should be in the 270-300 range. As was said make sure your carbs are clean and set up properly and that you don't have any leaks. One thing alot of people don't realize is that the float needle and seat must seal properly, this includes the seat must seal to the carb body. There is an O ring on the outside of the seat that seals it to the carb, these will get hard and/or worn and fail to seal. Fuel then leaks around the outside of the seat and floods the float bowl and runs out the bowl overflow. You can only get the O ring with the needle and seat, I tried an O ring out of a universal kit, but it did not last very long and started leaking again. I would contact PJ Motorsports(sponsor) for your carb parts as needed.

Go with a Noss head and the 21cc domes, as you said the worst case is you will need to change domes. Raising your compression will give you a little more power, especially at the low end of the band. The Noss head uses the stock studs, the domes and O rings are interchangeable with Pro Design and others so part availability won't be a problem. Don't expect a huge gain, but it should be noticeable.

Got back last night, the trip went off without a hitch. We stayed at a hotel in El Centro and rode from Pad 2 on Gecko Rd. on Wednesday and from the Buttercup Ranger station on Thursday. All I can say is that it was awesome!!! 2 days was definetly not enough time there, but the only out of pocket expense I had was our pass, bike gas and some food. The boss paid for all the fuel, the hotel and some of the food. I will definetly be going back with the wife and some friends. We got a feel for what is there and what we will need when we go for a week or more next time.

Ther is no magic chart or formula for jettiing. EVERY bike is different even with the same mods and/or pipes. You can follow the suggestions already made and it will get you close, but you will still need to do plug chops to make sure it is right. As for your compression, I would not worry about it until the rings have seated and it is broken in. When you check compression, remove both spark plugs, hold the throttle wide open and kick it until the needle quits moving.

You are close- 0 Ohms=direct contact, NO RESISTANCE OL=open circuit, INFINITE RESISTANCE or resistance that is so high it can not be measured.

Get a pair of calipers and measure the snap ring groove in the silencer can. Then go to your local hardware store a get the size you need out of their snap ring assortment. As for the mounts, I think Mod Quad make some different styles of both front and rear hangers for pipes. Or, you can step up and order everything from Toomey all at once so you are only paying 1 shipping charge. Toomey makes nice stuff, but they are proud of it. When I needed new bushings for my J arms back in 1990, my only choices were the crappy stockers or bronze ones from Toomey. Iwas told the Toomeys were $75when we ordered them. When they arrived at Oregon Motorsports, I was told they were $100, they had talked to Stuart Toomey and his response was "that was the price and if I did not like it, to send them back and he would sell them elsewhere". And as I have learned over the years, Banshees are not cheap to play with, and you get what you pay for. BTW, I am still running those very same bushings today.

First DG pipes are crap, I realize that was what the bike came with, but you should REALLY find something better. Especially when the rest of the bug bites and you start doing more mods- and the bug will bite because sooner or later you will get tired of bringing up the rear of your Banshee riding group. That being said, I would not go with T6s because they are great for a stock motor, maybe some mild boltons. Look at T5s, FMF, CPIs, Shearers, or R2s, Talk to people that have them and have similar riding styles/areas as yours. Now, as to your current jetting problems- if you melted a piston, it was because you were lean, no ifs, ands, or buts. It probably was the jetting, but you may have developed an air leak. I have NO knowledge of what DG pipes need to run but usually an aftermarket pipe needs a main jet between 260 and 350 to run right, depending on mods and displacement. You need to read the thread on carbs, it is either in the tech info section or the jetting section. The main jet only affects how the bike runs in the upper throttle openings, running at idle is controlled by the idle air screw, off idle is the pilot, mid throttle is the needle and clip position, and wide open is the main jet. When jetting it is better to start rich and work towards lean as that way you don't melt pistons. You need to start with 260-280 and do a plug chop to see where you are at. Banshee main jets come in increments of 10 from 200 on up so there is no 205.

JJ&A Racing sells all the pieces you need to build a swingarm as does Stellar.

You guys better go back and read your electrical theory manual again! Yes, 0 is a reading, it means that there is NO resistance and electricity can flow freely through the circuit resulting in a lot of amps flowing - if something is shorted to ground, it has a direct connection to ground and you have sparks and melted wires. It is rare to have a true 0 reading as there is always some resistance in the circuit and/or the meter. Infinitey means the resistance is so high that it is not measureable and therefore electricity CANNOT flow, so it is an open circuit. Take a piece of wire and read the resistance across it, it will be a low number reading, because it is a closed circuit with little resistance. Now cut the wire in two and read the resistance across the same two ends that you were connected to the first time( not the ends you just made by cutting it), it will read infinite because it is now an open circuit.

The 513 and 795 series I listed in my previous post ARE ProLites. That is the piston you should use in a Banshee and that is why I mentioned them.

NO don't call them! They have sucked in way too many people with their BS on the phone and then won't help them with a problem after the sale! There are other manufacturers and shops that are far better to deal with and make parts that work like they should and build power. If you do deal with Trinity, don't say you were not warned!

Most companies want to make money by producing a quality product that benifits the consumer and consumers want to add to their Banshees. Trinity is just in it for the money, if they cared about their product, they would not take weeks or even months to reply to and correct customer's complaints/problems. Trinity says that ALL of their Stage IV stuff is the best thing you can do to a Banshee, even though their products don't measure up in dyno tests and product comparisons(unless you go by what you read in Dirt Wheels, because everything they test is the best thing there is).

I have never seen a Banshee with stock carbs and near stock displacement that needed a pilot jet bigger than 30. Since it won't fire until it comes on the main jet, I think the pilot is too big. The other thing to look at is the plug wire and boot on the left side. If there were problems with the stator, CDI or coil, it should affect both cylinders, not just one. I suppose if the pickup coil gap was drastically different between the 2 nubs on the flywheel, it could affect 1 cylinder and not the other, so you may want to check the pickup coil gap on both nubs of the flywheel.

Well it looks like we are on for this coming Monday, we are only a week late. We should be leaving th Portland area Monday around noon, we should be on the sand on Wednesday and Thursday.

All the rezzy does is keep the coolant from getting on the ground and makes it available to be drawn back in when it cools down. It has no effect on the cooling or temp the bike runs at. Just zip tie the hose that goes from the radiator to the rezzy to the frame and cut it off at the bottom of the frame.Top off the radiator and warm up the bike, whatever pukes out is overfill.