bansheesandrider

Unless you have CNC machine shop at your disposal, you would be ahead to just buy one!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Still waiting to hear from you, if we can't get together today I probably won't be able to meet you until next Sunday and that might be iffy.

X3, the BEST stuff I have ever seen for a 2 stroke tranny! I have tried motor oil, ATF, Hondaline tranny, and BelRay tranny oil before I ended up with Klotz Flex Drive 30. My bike shifts the best with it, and every time I have split the cases it looks like brand new inside. I have never had a problem with the clutch, shift forks, gears, bearings or the pushrod ball in 7 different Banshees and 2 Blasters over the last 18+ years. Guys that are running ATF are welding clutch pushrods/balls unless they have a pancake bearing. I have never lost one, even on the girls bike that she loves to coast down hills with the clutch pulled in.

I am interested, how do I get ahold of you? Sent you a PM, please respond. I am currently working extreme hours, so I am very hard to get ahold of.

Therer is nothing to charge, Banshees DO NOT have a battery.

Measure from the center of the left tire to the center of the right tire in both the front and rear of the tires,ie at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions. The differencr in the measurments is the amount of toe that you have. I hope this makes it clear enough for you.

I am looking for a set of D arms or aftermarket J arms, upper and lowers, for my bike. I don't want to spend a whole lot of money as I am only going to use them for a year before I pull the motor out of my J arm frame and put it in my A arm frame, I just want to be able to ride this season.Let me know what is available and what it costs. Thanks, Bansheesandrider

The angle you are talking about is built into the geometry of the front end and is meant for checking if anything is bent. Just set your toe with the handlebars straight ahead and adjust the tierods so the front of the tires are about 1/8 inch closer than the rear of the tires are and the handlebars are straight when riding.

My 95 Ford did not have any either. I added some stake pocket tie downs, the kind that pop up when you need them, just don't get the ones that use expanding rubber to hold them in. They will pull loose in a crash or if you use ratchet straps. Mine have a plate that goes inside the pocket and then the tie down bolts to the top of it. You can also add VersaTrak on the floor so you have adjustable points if you need them. Or, depending on your fab skills, you can go to the junkyard and get some out of a newer or other brand truck and adapt them to yours.

How about FIXING what you have? A caliper rebuild kit is cheap and it is easy to install, plus you will learn how it works. I have problems with my rear caliper slide pins corroding up and then the caliper won't release properly and the pads wear out. I just have to pull it apart, get rid of the corrosion, coat them with antisieze and reassemble, problem solved and it didn't cost me a dime.

First off we need your elevation, you need to figure that out, not us. Secondly, 340 sounds awfully rich to me. If you still have TORS, unplug the control box under the left side of the fuel tank next to the coil, this will disable the TORS. While you are at it, cut the green/yellow wire for the Park Brake Rev Limiter. Cut it IN THE BIKE HARNESS at the CDI box plug, cut it on the bike side of the plug, not the box side, that way the connector will keep the wire from the box protected from ground. If the green/yellow wire from the CDI box sees ground it will activate the PB rev limiter. The green/yellow wire in the harness can be removed if you wish.

I had a deal to buy his D arm setup. He had to go out of town for a week because of work. We would complete the deal when he got back. while he was gone I passed on 2 other sets, 1 of which was even better than the deal I had with him, and he comes home and backs out on me, and the others are gone now. Even though no money had changed hands, it is a shitty way to conduct businesss- to offer something for sale, make a deal, leave me waiting for a week, come home and back out and leave me hanging.Just want to let everbody know how this guy operates.

Yea, we supposedly had a deal, he had to go out of town for a week because of work and would remove and ship them to me when he got back. Because we supposedly had a deal, I passed up 2 other sets, 1 of which was an even better deal than this one, and now they are gone. He comes home and backs out on me, so now I can't find any arms for my bike. VERY UNCOOL to make me wait for a week and then leave me hanging. Beware on future deals with this guy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just bore the cylinder you have and get the right size piston, OR you could have the cylinder you have resleeved. As was said, any cylinder that is still on the stock bore will probably need to be bored, unless it was just bought from Yamaha!!!!!!!!!!!!

Where did you get them and are they the same size as the stockers?

The better the oil, the less you need to run. I run Klotz R50 at 40:1 in my Banshees, have ran that way for over 20 years and have had NO problems, get pretty good life out of topends and everything is well lubed when I tear them down to inspect and freshen up.The less oil you have in there means it is less likely to foul spark plugs and the more fuel you have to make power.

Are they a cast piston? The only piston I trust for a 2 stroke is a Wiseco forged piston.

The headlight circuit is totally seperate from the ignition circuit in the stator. What I am saying is the headlights can light and the ignition side of the stator can be bad. I don't know if that is your problem, but don't overlook the stator because the lights work. Since everybody has said it and you have not acknowledged it-set your pickup coil gap to .020. Also make sure your ground connections and coil mounting have CLEAN BARE METAL.

I would make sure that there is not a number on the frame. It is supposed to be on the bottom tube under the stator cover by the shifter. I would LIGHTLY sand the paint/powdercoating to see if the number is underneath. If the cops ever find 2 numbers on the frame, they will impound the bike and throw your ass in jail. You would be better off with no number on the frame and just tell them it is a replacement frame.

DMV is supposed to use the frame number. Early year Banshees have the same number on the engine as they do on the frame. My 89 that I bought from the dealer is this way. Nut in the later years the engine number is different from the frame because Yamaha changed their numbering/ manufacturing procedures. Does the frame number match the engine number?

I want a sticker for the back of the trailer!!!!

Those don't look like T5s to me, probably T4s which were not worth the box they shipped them in. T4s were so bad that Toomey offered a trade up program when they came out with the T5s.

You bend that arm back and it is just going to bend again the first bump you hit. It has been weakened and should be removed from service. Or, ignore what I said, have it fail, crash into another ditch and damage more stuff that you have to replace. If you are just running stock J arms, you should be able to find a replacement on here or Ebay.

A Yamaha dealer. Seriously, the only brand of CDI box I would buy is the factory Yamaha one, just as that is the only brand of stator and flywheel I would recomend. I would also only recomend a stock coil, but a Nology coil is OK.

NO!NO!NO! WHY?WHY?WHY? You will end up with an ill handling pile of scrap metal that can be beat by a strong running 2 stroke twin. Banshee frame DON'T WORK for street bike motors because the cradle area is not tall enough.