bansheesandrider

I have bought 2 frames, with titles, for $200 a piece.

All you need to get is the threaded adjusters that screw into the carb tops and then the cable sits in the adjuster.

Caliper guts should be the same. 1990 Banshees had the A-arm style brakes on the J-arm suspension.

When my aftermarket CDI box was failing, I had to tow start it when it was cold but could kickstart it when hot. It was NOT a compression problem. Sent the CDI box back to manufacturer and they warrantied it. Bought oem for the bike and kept aftermarket for a spare.

Nobody here will know, because in your words, this place is dumb as fuck! You will attract more help with honey instead of vinegar. You will have to look outside the States as Banshee importation stopped there in 2006.

I'm going to guess that your crank was NOT trued and welded. So the crank spread and wiped out the bearings, taking out the pistons and bores with it. Dealer mechanics don't know what they are talking about, I was fed ALOT of misinformation by the dealer mechanic when my Banshee was new. Get your crank welded when you put it back together or it will do it again. Run a good oil, like Klotz, Maxima or Amsoil, not Yamalube. Mix you premix at either 32;1 or 40:1 with premium fuel. And sand puts way more load on the engine than running down the smooth pavement, more load is more heat. Just try pushing the bike in sand and then on the pavement and see which is easier. And get it jetted properly, even and air filter change requires rejetting.

Maybe or maybe not. I had problems with the check valve sticking in the fuel cap. I would be riding along and the engine would just bog down and die, like it had run out of fuel even though the tank was full. If I caught it soon enough, I could loosen the cap and keep on going. Once I figure out it wasn't venting, I cleaned out the cap with brakeclean and problem was solved.

What was the reason for the top end rebuild before it happened? Was the crank and rods properly inspected while it was apart? Did the crankcase get properly cleaned out of all foreign material during the top end job? At the minimum, you are going to need a new or rebuilt crank assembly, all the gaskets and seals, and redo the top end. Make sure you get the crank welded while you are in there. Inspect your cases very thoroughly , replace anything else that is worn or damaged. Don't cheap out on anything, use good quality parts and fix everything so you don't have more failures and collateral damage.

The fact that you said the CDI box is Stage 2 tells me it is not OEM. I tried an aftermarket box because it was all I could get in St. Anthony's- it lasted 1 ride. You can't test a CDI box, the test is to swap in a known good box. Get an OEM stator and CDI box, then you won't be chasing your tail. Did you check the pickup coil gap to the flywheel?

The non-symetrical bend in the cradle is the way it comes from the factory. Your control arm might be bent and cause the wheels to lean differently, or it might pull to one direction. I've never found frame measurements to see if the frame is bent, I make sure my control arms are not bent, and then check the camber of the front wheels to be close to even and go from there.

I've been running synthetic Klotz MTL in mine for over 20 years and the clutch has never slipped at all! Makes it shift better than anything else I have tried- engine oil, Bel Ray Gearsaver, ATF, Honda trans oil and more.

Painted plastics are for show bikes, not bikes that get ridden. It will look good when you do it, but after a couple rides the plastic will flex and the paint will crack. Then you will fine lines of the plastic color showing and it will really look bad!

If you have to ask that question, then you should probably dump it. I have always thought that it was better to fix what you have instead of replacing it with someone else's problem, which is what already happened to you. If you fix what you have, then you KNOW what you have. If you spend $450 on a top end and $450 on a crank, then you have a solid engine that you know will live. If you dump it and buy another one , you are gambling on getting something decent. How many time do you want to do that? If you are going to replace it make sure you check out the next one thouroughly- check compression, condition of fluids and levels, proper test ride, look for broken, bent or missing parts, etc.

Are the slides in the carbs correctly? Are the slides hanging up? Did you get the needles aligned with the jet when you installed the slides?

It's definitely not the right thing, Banshees are all metric, there is nothing SAE on them.

Buy the correct parts from Yamaha or your next post will be asking why your brakes don't work correctly! You're going by a crappy picture on Amazon that may or may not be the right thing?

A bone stock Banshee new from Yamaha starts just fine without having to cut the head to raise compression! Your problem is somewhere else and you are trying to Band Aid it. Figure out why it won't start(jetting?) and fix it right.

The stock tank only holds 3.7 gallons, so you are going to have to be almost empty to be able to do that. I would get a smaller size can, like a 2.5 gallon or even a 1 gallon and carry that much premix. I would also bring some extra oil so you can refill the can after you use it.

You are going to need to do a DC conversion to make LEDs work properly and last. Banshees make AC power. Google Banshee DC conversion to get the info you need.

Did you line up the arrows on the pressure plate with the arrows on the clutch hub? Do you have the ball in between the pushrod and the pancake bearing adjuster? Just past snug is too tight, it should have minimal clearance so you don't weld the ball to the pushrod.

Some people should just pay someone else to work on their stuff if they can't look at it and figure it out!

DONT PUT A STREETBIKE ENGINE IN AN OFF ROAD MACHINE. It will be faster than hell in a straight line. But it won't turn or jump worth a damn because the weight distribution is all wrong. Sell the R1 motor and use the money to have Redline build and tune your Banshee motor. Then let it warm up properly and maintain it like you should and you won't have problems. I haven't had an engine problem in over 10 years because my Banshees are properly tuned and maintained.

First thing, when jetting, the bigger the number on the jet the MORE fuel it passes, so bigger number equals RICHER. Second thing, put some OEM electrics back on. I have tried aftermarket stators and CDI units and they cause more problems than they solve. Had a stator that failed in three rides and a CDI that did not last a month. You are better off buying used OEM than buying new aftermarket.

If that light bar truly needs a relay, you don't have a big enough stator to run it if you still have the stock stator. If it is a LED bar, you probably don't need the relay, but you should be floating the stator ground, adding a rectifier( a DC conversion). LEDs don't last long when ran on AC power. You should read up on the Banshee electrical system and the threads about adding LED lights.

Do you have ALL the pieces in properly? Did you lose the ball between the adjuster and the pushrod? Do you have a pancake bearing and is it assembled correctly?