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fastquad02blaster

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Everything posted by fastquad02blaster

  1. Yes. That is the pick-up. I used a buisness card between mine. Both lined up perfect. Make sure that you check them both.
  2. I would go with a cool head or shave your stock one down. Then you wouldn't have to mess with taking your motor apart and you will have options on compression by changing domes.
  3. Piston stops are mainly for finding TDC on something. You don't want to use it for tightening things down.
  4. I don't think that your problem was from too lean. Especially if your plugs had good color. If it was a lot colder and drier when you were at the dunes, this could have contributed though. I wouldn't have thought that detonation would have caused a broken skirt.
  5. I think that definately off of that list, you should do timing and reeds. Timing is probably the cheapest way to get a little more power. I think that the reeds make them more rideable. After you've done all the bolt-ons that you can, then go with a good port job.
  6. Small water situations are ok, but not creek crossings or anything like that.
  7. I was thinking lean also. The only way that could happen in your situation is an air leak. Check the carb boots between the carbs and jugs for cracks or being loose.
  8. That's what I'm thinking too. If it starts when you add fuel and doesn't when you don't........Wouldn't that be lack of fuel?
  9. I don't remember that on mine but they could've been that way. I had a hell of a time getting the rear mount hole of the silencer pipe to line up with my hole in my frame. I had to tweak it forward some to get it on there. Sorry I'm not much help.
  10. Get a new key and put it back together and give it a try. The most that might happen is cutting out up top or loss of spark maybe. If it's acting up, you'll know what's wrong, that's for sure.
  11. One single tube. It's on the opposite side of the carb from the choke knob. Like said, pull your seat and do some looking and feeling around and you'll find it if it's there.
  12. It might be your stator. People on here have had problems with RS stators. Try putting your old one back in and see if that fixes the prob.
  13. A banshee will start in any gear. I know it's a broken record saying on here but, choke tube?
  14. Longer stroke will give you more power all around. More torque on the bottom and more cc = more power. The gain would be noticeable.
  15. Yeah. You're gonna have to take some off of the carb body so that those screws will go in further. I think just about everybody has this problem with the tors eliminator idle screws.
  16. I would say that if you are easy with it, a RS plate would work fine. They are cast but, so are the stock ones. Plus 4 seems to be the general consensus around here. I would say that if you live where there is 93 octane pump fuel, you could probably go with 5.
  17. I'm pretty sure that it will all be fine too. Good write up man. Very detailed and informative.
  18. Did you clean the inside or the outside? Just kidding. It's a stuck float. Get a new needle and seat.
  19. I think that I would still want shocks and springs up front, even if I was just street driving it. Nice bike amigo.
  20. Sounds like the switch on the carb or the switch on the throttle was giving you problems. Either way. If you properly delete the tors, you wont have to worry about it when your riding.
  21. Bigger main and pilot. I'm thinking i've got a 310 main in mine right now and a 27.5 pilot. That's my spring/fall jetting. For hotter, I go just a touch leaner and winter, a touch richer.
  22. When I first got my bike, the parking brake switch freaked me out. Glad to hear the good news.
  23. I'm getting maxxis razr 1s for the rear of mine. I think that the 2s are a little too agressive for a 2 stroke bike. Maybe not though.
  24. I agree on the bigger aluminum radiator, impellar and the water wetter. It breaks down the surface tension of the water. It should let your bike run cooler.
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