Coupelx

other than the shitty cell phone pic. ring is nice and tight and maybe a shade darker than a paper bag.

pipes, a rejet and replace anything that is worn or haggard will make for a good ride.

kinda like the moron on here that keeps overpricing his rusted out t5's and when i mentioned cleaning them before listing them for sale might help them sell he started a new thread with a smartass remark about it and they still looked like shit. you just cant fix stupid and the forsale section of any site, ebay or craigslist is the place to find them

dirtydownunder has one he bought new.... in australia.

You were on the right track in the first part of your post but Water would displaces air and fuel that would normally occupy room in the cylinder since water is inert . I spray a water/alcohol mix into my turbo charged car to cool it but have sprayed straight water into the engine with little to no effect on the AFR. There is no such thing as pre-detonation. There is Detonation and Pre-Ignition. Google for defintions. There is also detonation induced preignition.

AMEN! bikebandit has uni filters for awesome prices!

i would pick up some new intakes and the correct crossover. heater hose is not oil/gas resistant.

I could have sworn we had a for sale forum.

win!

ive seen alot of bike that ran HARD with stock carbs. I think people get carried away with carb size. Banshees like gearing, especially with dirt tires.

if you can start my dirtbike before i get to my pistol, you can have it.

i had no problems with 4 pokes with my t5's and stock ports. so many of them cant ride worth a shit anyways

mine leak a bit, i figure after some carbon builds up they will stop

low compression in one cylinder will foul that plug AND cause it to not come up on the pipe. when i bought my dirtbike it started and ran ok until you opened it up, it would hit the powerband and fall on its face. rebuilt the top end and its a death ride again.

sounds likeyour shift arm stop thing needs to be adjusted as it isnt fully engaging the next gear. its the peg with the slot in it in this picture. loosening the lock nut will allow you to turn it. it is offset so when you turn it it will raise or lower the shift shaft. the picture also shows where the shift shaft has been ground out to allow more travel for more positive shifts. the banshee tranmission is known for false neutrals anyways.

buttheads

you boners need to stop raving about them. i still havent got to try mine out hopefully this weekend!

spurdy will be asleep by 8pm.

i will be in texas then otherwise i would be there with a case of beer for him.

nice mounting too. them fags would break right off.

good seller!

the belray stuff is synthetic isnt it? synthetic oil seems to be "thinner" than conventional oil for a given viscosity. I am one of those that run ATF because i am hard on clutches but any good oil designed for a wet clutch will work. royal purple 10w40 does not fall into that category. I would expect clutch problems running something like that. edit- personal preference but i also run 2 quarts to keep the pushrod and ball lubricated.

namura? really? If you want a cast piston at least run a quality one like a Pro X. The power gains vitos advertises is a joke.

well we cant count on retards like you now can we