Coupelx

are these blumpkin accessible?

probably talking about adding the window that lines up with the boost port. I guess its supposed to help keep the top bearing oiled. I don't think there's enough gain to warrant the hassle. you spend a lot of time questioning rather than researching jereme.

RIS made a quality piece.

what part of ok you from?

mine is the same way. unless you got a cup of it you really cant tell its mixed.

they should have orings for that. if they dont then maybe.

its only a sleeper until the first pass BUT if done right with out a big ass spacer or anything like that then it really would leave people scratching their heads wondering WTF just happened.

a few things i do- grease seals before install, especially the crank seals. seal the key on the crank loctite on the crank nut and clutch basket nut and tighten both with an impact. grease the rod and ball and clutch pusher grease the clutch arm bearing put a little oil in the crank bearings through their oil holes before top end install. i like a soft scotch brite pad to clean gasket surfaces while i have them in the parts washer.

$5 says it kills a piston first.

b the crank does not take oil. it is lubricated by the premix. It takes 1.5 qts. If you are not running a pancake bearing on the clutch pusher you might consider running 2 full quarts. i have for quite awhile now. Helps keep stuff oiled. I ran atf for along time also. recently switched to the valvoline atv oil. its was cheaper

the r2's come on a little later but stronger in the midrange and taper off in the top end which makes them feel like they pull forever.

Sounds like its sold! A friend and i are going to meet him sunday.

you have to go to trinity for the oring kit. its about $25 i think use a light coating of vaseline on the oring to get it to stick into its groove. the dome thing registered_user is talking about is on the cheetahs although it does make a guy wonder about the rest of their stuff.

unless you are running where there is the potential for the filter to get wet dont oil the outer layer. this keeps stuff from sticking to the filter. Ive personally seen about a dozen cases of how horrible a k&n filter really is. my boss is a fan of them. and everytime i pull the one off his dodge dually the intake tube is full of dirt. they get worse the more times you clean them out as the gauze ages and the holes get bigger. the same thing that makes a k&n flow good is the same thing that makes it a terrible filter. with that said in certain cases such as on a drag bike or possibly a street bike they might be OK. i will be running k&n's on my drag bike if it ever makes it together but its a limited use deal and doesnt go tear down the road in the dust and shit.

Ill be odd man and say uni pods. I like to filter the air. Not just screen it.

Its not very common because of the work involved. A 10mil crank doesn't fit in stock cylinders very well. If you want to stick with stock cylinders look into a 7mil crank. Still requires case work but it will fit in stock cylinders.

No reason you couldn't. Best bet is to call a builder and ask them if they have done something like this before. Good to see someone doing something different.

go pretend you are interested in buying it and get us some good pics

anyone have proof of the ethanol being harder on the seals or just hearsay at this point?

What are you trying to do? Stock is something like 180.5/120.

These are TCS zero preload shocks. They were redone by matt last summer and have a few dune rides and braps around the house on them. bottom springs have a few nicks in the powdercoat and the top springs have new powdercoat on them. These are pretty much identical to works shocks and even use the works rebuild kits. Sprung for a 180-190lb rider. Looking to trade with someone who wants stiffer shocks. I weigh 170 and am losing weight so these are a bit stiff for me. Trades would need to be in good usable shape. nothing leaky and worn out. prefer they have external reservoirs. If you are not an established member in god standing. you will most likely need to ship first nothing personal but theres too much BS going on. more pics if you are interested in a trade.

exactly what i told him. the358bansh did it in probably the best way out there considering the lack of support for something like this and a mega/microsquirt will do anything a banshee will ever need and yet zillafreak is doing everything completely opposite.

as in the gear on the crank? no you can leave it on. but it will need to come off to change crank seals which you should do while it apart. an impact works very well for this and a dab of red loctite is handy upon reassembly.

wut?

sure.